Started with a k04 now running gtx3071r!
 

I ordered a tune and ebc last night.
I'm looking forward to working with the guys at Stratified to make a good reliable street tune to wake this car up safely.
When it's done, I will hit up a dyno for some camparisons and final numbers and post up in here.

You're in good hands man.
I haven't met Alex yet, but Mike is a really cool dude.

alex just contacted me last night.
going to get some datalogs for him today to get this thing started!

It's finally done, and I'm very happy with the way the car runs now.

It took a while because the ms3 was being a bit difficult, but Alex was able to figgure the issues out and now she runs like a champ.

I will post up some before, during, and finall datalogs so you guys/gals can see the progress that was made.

Eventually, I will hit up the track and a dyno to get some numbers as well... granted, my track times won't be all that grate since I only get to go once, maybe twice a year. But I'm sure you all will get the idea of how well she's running.

Once again, thank you very much for putting in the time and effort to give me a good, strong, safe tune Alex.

Ok, I have some virtual dynos.
1, is just the final Stratified tune.
1, is a comparison of the Cobb ots Stg2 93oct, Stratified, and MPT tunes.
1, is a comparison of the above as well as the MPT dd tune, and the Stratified base map we started off with.

As you can see, the Stratified tune isn't the most powerful, but it's the cleanest and safest. I will post up the datalogs as well for everyone to look at and compare.

Ignore the fact that the MPT race tune has zero kr, the sensor is turned off so the car doesn't pull timing when used.

Don't even ask why the Cobb tune is so ridiculous... I did 2 pulls and it came out like this both times.

Please keep in mind, I have 86k miles on the car and have yet to do a valve cleaning. Which could be the cause of the kr and the lack of performance.

I use Mobil 93oct fuel and Rotella T6 oil.
I'm going to clean my valves this weekend. So I will try to get some new datalogs with just the Stratified tune to see if it helped.

Thanks for looking.

I believe the Cobb run acted up becuase I didn't give it a couple of days to settle in.

Thanks for posting these up!

I am glad we were able to get a tune for you that is safe for the car. Even on the ST final tune you can see you are right on the edge of knock where it should be. With the MPT tune and 22psi of boost, 16* of timing and the knock sensor turned off, the poor motor must have been knocking like crazy.

Oh I'm sure the MPT race tune knocks like a guy with ocd lol. Lots of power at the cost of the life of the engine/turbo.
Becuase if you look at the dd tune from them, it's filled with knock.

And here it is. 86k on the car. Did OCC around 5-10k and did an egr delete at 65k. My valves were pig filthy with gunk. The pic of the crud on a napkin was just from 1 runner. Car runs smoother now.

I'm going to wait for everything to settle back in then take some new datalogs to show how it has helped the car.

also, did an compression test.
1 - 180
2 - 180
3 - 172
4 - 180

Very nice results sir! Also very interested to see the after logs.

And here it is folks.

A before and after vd chart from cleaning valves.

You can see I did manage to pick up some extra hp but lost a little tq.

How did the intake and bat temperatures in the two pulls compare?

I knew i should have uploaded the datalogs as well.
I'm away from my computer at the moment, but when i have a chance I will post both datalogs so people can compare them.

ok, so here are the datalogs from before and after the valve cleaning

So I went a snagged a PnP intake mani from Relentless Customs and then had a touch up tune done.

Here are the end results.

Keep in mind, when I did these current datalogs, it was a little warmer and a bit windy compared to when I did my datalogs for the last tune after I had cleaned my valves.
So my HP numbers are probably lower than they would have been if I was able to do them in the same exact conditions... cooler/calmer.

The shapes of the recent curves are quite odd in my opinion. We were able to push more boost without affecting timing once the valves were clean and the manifold was installed. The drop of hp in the top end is odd given this and if winds were strong they can definitely affect these graphs especially at higher speeds.

Yep, good ol' wind strikes again
But I went ahead with the datalogging because temperature wise, this was closer to my initial loggs before the PnP manifold.

I could feel it pushing me around and it felt like it took a little longer to hit redline.
But that's why i just went ahead and posted this up.
Even though I was fighting the wind, I still was able to show some gains.

We will see what she does on an actual dyno when a dyno day comes up around here in Florida.

Thanks for your time Alex.

Hey @Lex;

If I go from a high flow catted dp to a catless one, would I need a refresh tune or just have you turn off a CEL?

I'd like to see a log. Your tune is very well refined for your current setup so by seeing a log I'd have a much better idea of whether or not this has thrown it off.

Thanks Alex.

I haven't done it yet, just entertaining the notion. I've had my current dp for about 5 years and i'm sure the high flow cat is getting pretty gunked up.

I will make sure to send you some logs if I do bite the bullet and get a new dp.

@Lex;

I'm about to bite on upgrading to an gtx3071r.
I'm on stock block still and want to run internal wastgate. What spring rating do you recommend? 8, 14, or 22?

Thanks,
Damian

14psi. If you have a bit intake, intercooler, then make sure the downpipe you are running has a high flow cat or you are likely to creep on the IWG.

You can also port the wastegate but do so carefully. Overdoing it can kill response.

So it's better to have a high flow cat than catless dp when running iwg?

If you are running a big intake and nice flowing intercooler a cat will prevent creep from the ATP IWG.

I never knew that a catless dp would cause boost creep with an IWG ATP turbo.
You just saved me some money because I was going to swap out my CP-E catted for an ATP catless.

As you know I'm currently running the v2 Cobb fmic, so I'm good there.
I will be upgrading my intake to the HTP 3.5 sri.

Do you know if the current ATP turbo kits have everything I need, as in oil/water lines or are they still lacking and need to be bought seperately?
Will i still need to swap out the elbow that goes from turbo into intercooler pipeing, or does that come with the curent kit as well?

I know these are a lot of questions, but I would like to get all I need in 1 order instead of finding out I needed other things.

Thank you for your time Alex.

I have a customer right now with the following modifications:

Mods. ATP GTX3071,
JBR 3.5" SRI old aluminum,
Cobb AP V3,
Autotech HPFP,
3 Bar Map Sensor,
GrimmSpeed 3 Port EBCS,
Guardian Angel,
eBay Downpipe catless
Tokay V2 Injector Seals,
Treadstone TR8 Intercooler,
CX Racing FMIC Piping Kit,
CP-E Triton CBE,
NGK Plugs,
PNP Intake Manifold,
DO Stage 2 WMI kit D10
Forge V1 BPV

On spring pressure alone he gets above 23psi in hot weather and 3rd gear. So he is getting some major creep.

You can port the wastegate but if the cat in your current DP is fine, I would stick with it. If you want to run catless I recommend going EWG.

I am pretty sure you still need the extension for the elbow on the ATP turbos. Are you buying your parts from Edge? The vendors who handle these turbo kits everyday would be able to have the latest updates on what they include.

I messaged the guys at Edge, But I'm sure they're flooded due to the sale going on.
So I was hopeing you might have known how the current kits are thrown together since you guys tune a lot of our cars.

I realy appreciate your time and look forward to our tuning process when I get all this together and installed.

There are fairly accurate pictures of the kits:

ATP Turbo GTX3071R Bolt On Turbo Kit Upgrade Mazdaspeed 3 MS3

I don't think anything has changed since this good install article was posted but when placing the order definitely check with Edge:

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1-build-94543/

On top of the odds and ends to bolt the turbo and the other modifications you mentioned you will also need:

- A 3 port solenoid to control boost
- A 3 bar MAP sensor and PNP harness for going above 21.5psi of boost

We have the 3 port on a slight discount if bought together with the tune.

ATP Turbo External Wastegate Bolt On Turbo Kit Mazdaspeed 3 MS3

My friend just pointed out this kit. Never noticed it before. It has the housing on the hotside for an external wastegate and it allows you to keep your exsisting turbo manifold.

I think I will try this out. Hopefully it works out.

Have you ever done any tuning for this specific setup before @Lex;?

Yes I have tuned a good number of these. Boost creep and control were not an issue with this setup which is a positive.

However I am not the biggest fan of the placement of the EWG in terms of flow through the exhaust housing and turbine. I do like the simplicity and cost effectiveness of the setup and the fact that creep is not a problem.

I went ahead and placed my order with edgeautosports.

This is what I purchased:

ATP Turbo GTX3071R EWG Bolt-On Turbo Kit
OEM Downpipe Gasket (Upper)
OEM Manifold Turbo Gasket
Bosch 3 Bar TMap Map Sensor with IAT
Bitwise Motorsports Bosch MAP Sensor Connector
HTP 3.5" Intake System + 51R Battery Tray Combo Kit
Kozmic Motorsports Primary EGR Delete Kit
@Lex;
When should I order a fresh tune for the new setup?
About a week before the install?

Yes this is a good lead time. If you are ordering the 3 port from us as well I can have it in the mail asap at that time as well.

Most of my stuff showed up.
Just waiting on my turbo kit.
@Lex;
When I hook up the ebcs, is it best to stay in 2 port or switch over to 3 port with this new set up?

3 port and start with a base map that is setup for it.

OK, thank you Alex.

Like I said, I will contact you for the tune a week before I do the install.

Sounds great, looking forward to it.

This beautiful piece of art just showed up today :)

The plan is to instal on August 2nd.
@Scare Dem;

That looks nice.

Sorry Alex.
I was informed by my manager that I'm going to have to work that weekend because he will be out of town.

So the new date will be August 9th.
I will purches my BT tune around the 1st, that way it gives you time to give me a base map to break in the turbo with.
How many miles do you suggest for a break in period?

There is no "break in" really needed for a turbocharger since there are no rings so seat like in a motor. I do recommend 40-60 miles on the initial map of normal driving to get a nice MAF calibration and make sure there are no air or fluid leaks.