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 Old 03-05-2015, 04:39 PM   #1
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Default MazdaSpeed Synapse DV Valve at Stratified

As we are growing we are starting to carry more of the common parts that a lot our customers need for their builds and that we have ran and stand by their performance. Today, we added the Synapse DV valve for the MazdaSpeed. It is the fastest valve on the market and anyone with a MazdaSpeed running above 20psi of boost should consider this upgrade. More at the link below. Price includes shipping!

Synapse DV Bypass/Blow Off Valve [MazdaSpeed Synapse DV] - $260.00USD : Stratified Automotive Controls
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 Old 03-09-2015, 10:48 AM   #2
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How do these compare to a forge or corksport bpv?
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 Old 03-09-2015, 11:07 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by neganox View Post
How do these compare to a forge or corksport bpv?
Well they go pshh psshhh like all the other ones...





Lol, from what I've heard, the Synapse is suppose to be a pretty damn nice DV, but I don't have any personal experience.
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 Old 03-09-2015, 11:15 AM   #4
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I like pssh pssh. Not sure if I can justify $260 worth of pssh pssh. It certainly looks fancier.
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 Old 03-09-2015, 11:35 AM   #5
 
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It's faster, isn't it?
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 Old 03-09-2015, 11:41 AM   #6
 
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It's one of the best around. It uses a sealing piston and orings instead of a diaphragm, so less maintenance and also very fast. And it doesn't make that grotesque dying tweety bird noise that everyone seems to think is cool.

I got it because I wanted quality. I've seen too many issues with others, even the well known brands (maybe with hks as an exception), not to justify doing it right the first time and just spending an extra $60 to $100 on a bpv. My 2 pence.
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 Old 03-09-2015, 03:13 PM   #7
 
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I have this bypass valve as well. I like it a lot. Very quick. I don't have any other experience other valves so I honestly can't say how it compares, but I am very satisfied with this one.
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 Old 03-09-2015, 08:26 PM   #8
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This valve won't make fancy noises (it is fairly quiet) since the opening is fairly large but it is very fast and that's what makes it special. This means that transient on/off boost is excellent as is gear shifting and this is why I recommend the valve. When we developed the GA I had the opportunity to try a lot of different valves on the market and this one stood out for me.
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 Old 03-10-2015, 05:33 AM   #9
 
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Hands down the best there is. I want to run it with a GA so I can go VTA and see what the sound diff is. I have one on my turbo rx8 and I have zero complaints. I love that recirc'd no one can hear it but me. Really puts my car into sleeper mode
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 Old 03-10-2015, 05:45 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by jtday View Post
It's one of the best around. It uses a sealing piston and orings instead of a diaphragm, so less maintenance and also very fast. And it doesn't make that grotesque dying tweety bird noise that everyone seems to think is cool.

I got it because I wanted quality. I've seen too many issues with others, even the well known brands (maybe with hks as an exception), not to justify doing it right the first time and just spending an extra $60 to $100 on a bpv. My 2 pence.
I haven't had any issues with my HKS, but I have had issues with a Turbosmart.
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 Old 03-10-2015, 07:28 AM   #11
 
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I plan to order this after I order my new intake. Everything I have read about the Synapse DV has been awesome and I really don't care what it sounds like just that it does its job and does it well.
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 Old 03-11-2015, 10:23 AM   #12
 
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@Lex; Are you currently running this valve with the Guardian Angel? If so, how did you connect the smaller diameter hose supplied with the valve to the larger diameter hose required for the BOV OUT nipple on the GA?
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 Old 03-11-2015, 11:35 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by jtday View Post
@Lex; Are you currently running this valve with the Guardian Angel? If so, how did you connect the smaller diameter hose supplied with the valve to the larger diameter hose required for the BOV OUT nipple on the GA?
Yes I use the GA for overboost protection all the time. I used the push lock fittings on the valve and a short piece of 1/4" hard tubing provided with the push lock Y connector to have ports A and B connected. I then slipped a rubber hose over the 1/4" hard tubing and connected to the GA. Works very well.
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 Old 03-13-2015, 04:20 PM   #14
 
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I purchased this valve while tuning with Stratified per Lex's suggestion and I love it. As stated above the on/off throttle response is very impressive. I find that the turbine doesn't lose much speed between quick shifts which means full boost much sooner in the following gear when compared to the factory bpv.

I hooked mine up using a fancy 90° barbed brass fitting that I purchased from a local hydraulics shop along with a small brass fitting with a screen in it for the unused port. I was able to reuse the stock BPV hose in the factory orientation and location with this arrangement.
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 Old 03-13-2015, 09:18 PM   #15
 
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Same deal, got this valve per Mike at stratified suggestion since my stocker was leaking under boost.

Works great, slightly louder than stock and extremely responsive.

I ordered a corksport bpv hose at the same time, luckily. The stock wouldn't fit properly.
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 Old 05-04-2015, 06:42 PM   #16
 
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@Lex; Just got my synapse bpv in from you guys this afternoon. What are your recommendations as far as setup?:
1.) port combinations (A, B, or A+B),
2.) spring pre-load,
3.) and push vs pull.

Based off of what I have gathered so far, I would guess the answers would be A+B, minimum pre-load, and push mode. I have read some say pull mode is better for high boost operation, but I imagine this may not be an issue for our application. Would that be correct to assume? I'm currently running a factory K04, plan to upgrade to the BNR stage3 eventually. Thank you in advance.
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 Old 05-05-2015, 09:18 AM   #17
 
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Found the following handy information posted by Synapse on an Evo forum and I subsequently switched from ports A+B to port B only, with the result of smoother actuation and less flutter/bucking:
link: Post your Synapse DV config and results - Page 14 - evolutionm.net

"What I've found in road racing applications is especially true in this scenario: Long straight that goes into heavy braking, with a tight exit that requires slow throttle input. If you're setup with A+B, you'll find that the vacuum is too strong and it opens the BOV/DV. So, for anyone road racing, I really recommend using Port B.

The solution by other manufacturers is more spring pre-load, which translates into the DV/BOV not working in other critical areas. Pneumatically, with only Port B the DV/BOV won't self relieve pressure until well over 60 psi anyhow, so, you'll be just fine."
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 Old 05-05-2015, 01:58 PM   #18
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Interesting that you found it smoothest in that configuration. I run it as A+B in a push type configuration on our vehicle with great results. However this is very much something that you can setup to your liking.

One more thing to watch for - when inserting the tubing into the Y connector don't push the tubess too far into the connector. This can cause them to butt against the end and actually prevent the valve from seeing the correct vacuum and opening reliably.
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 Old 05-05-2015, 02:28 PM   #19
 
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I run B in pull mode with the minimum pre-load. I have not played around with different configurations because I didn't encounter any unfavorable characteristics after the install. The only real issue is I wouldn't be able to use a fail safe device like the Guardian Angel with this configuration. Otherwise I believe it's the best of all worlds from what I've read and from the Synchronic Tuning Manual and my butt dyno agrees.
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 Old 05-30-2015, 10:59 AM   #20
 
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I just picked on up from a buddy of mine that had it on his speed3...but this will be going on a CX-7. So trying to see what would be the best route to start with. Obviously it's an auto 6-speed, and currently installed on the 7 is TIP, CS intake, EGR delete.

Was thinking of A+B part in push and see how it does...suggestions?
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 Old 05-30-2015, 06:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by JVal1283 View Post
I just picked on up from a buddy of mine that had it on his speed3...but this will be going on a CX-7. So trying to see what would be the best route to start with. Obviously it's an auto 6-speed, and currently installed on the 7 is TIP, CS intake, EGR delete.

Was thinking of A+B part in push and see how it does...suggestions?
This is a good setup!
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 Old 05-30-2015, 06:11 PM   #22
 
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Cool, just need to get 90 degree fittings since the dv on the 7 sits more straight up and the TMI cover won't go back on
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 Old 06-01-2015, 12:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by JVal1283 View Post
Cool, just need to get 90 degree fittings since the dv on the 7 sits more straight up and the TMI cover won't go back on
Be careful with the install and manhandling the valve. The bottom flange if forced can crack or be damaged.
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 Old 06-01-2015, 12:09 PM   #24
 
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Does this valve need to be serviced/lubed periodically?
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 Old 06-01-2015, 07:28 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by btstarcher View Post
Does this valve need to be serviced/lubed periodically?
Theoretically no. All the mechanisms are the same and here is the official answer for the BOV: Synapse Engineering Help Desk

With that said, they do sell rebuild kits for them.
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 Old 06-03-2015, 02:44 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by lnumbp View Post
along with a small brass fitting with a screen in it for the unused port.
Could you post a picture of what you used? Is it a standard part of some sort? This seems like a better idea to me than just VTA on an unused port.

@Lex; do you have any experience with the weaker / "street" spring?
Synapse Engineering Help Desk
They say it's included with "many of our popular DV kits" ... is it in the ones from Stratified?

Also wondered if you'd seen the actual data on actuation vacuum, since I hadn't seen it discussed or posted anywhere:
Synapse Engineering Help Desk
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 Old 06-03-2015, 03:09 PM   #27
 
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I’ve been using one of these for a while, I think its important for most to understand, not only is it fast, it is a bi-directional bypass;
throttle open (partial to full, pre-boost), vacuum present in manifold? open; (bypass turbo and intercooler from TIP to IC cold pipe).

throttle open, boost present in manifold? closed

throttle closed, vacuum post plate, boost pre plate? open (boost bypass)


I’ve always wondered if the synapse could create an issue for tuning in that it plays with TIP volume and length, but the throttle response is considerably better with it versus stock, turbosmart or greddy type-r bpv.... (all used previous to it on my pu).
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 Old 06-04-2015, 10:53 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by aackthpt View Post
Could you post a picture of what you used? Is it a standard part of some sort? This seems like a better idea to me than just VTA on an unused port.

@Lex; do you have any experience with the weaker / "street" spring?
Synapse Engineering Help Desk
They say it's included with "many of our popular DV kits" ... is it in the ones from Stratified?

Also wondered if you'd seen the actual data on actuation vacuum, since I hadn't seen it discussed or posted anywhere:
Synapse Engineering Help Desk
I have verified with Synapse. The kits come with the standard spring. I haven't seen any surge issues with this setup and I recommend not adding any preload to the spring.

Originally Posted by Yatta View Post
I’ve been using one of these for a while, I think its important for most to understand, not only is it fast, it is a bi-directional bypass;
throttle open (partial to full, pre-boost), vacuum present in manifold? open; (bypass turbo and intercooler from TIP to IC cold pipe).

throttle open, boost present in manifold? closed

throttle closed, vacuum post plate, boost pre plate? open (boost bypass)


I’ve always wondered if the synapse could create an issue for tuning in that it plays with TIP volume and length, but the throttle response is considerably better with it versus stock, turbosmart or greddy type-r bpv.... (all used previous to it on my pu).
This is an important comment and note that. The guys at MotoIQ wrote about this:
We Test Synapse Engineering's Synchronic Blow Off Valve and DV Diverter Valve

Essentially having the valve open under vacuum creates a bypass for the compressor which does create some pressure against the throttle plate. This reduces backpressure on the turbine side and increases efficiency when under vacuum.
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 Old 06-04-2015, 11:09 AM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post

Essentially having the valve open under vacuum creates a bypass for the compressor which does create some pressure against the throttle plate. This reduces backpressure on the turbine side and increases efficiency when under vacuum.
It was this feature (not the article) that sold it on me, you can hear it as well, three distinct sounds, open under vacuum, closed under boost and open when venting boost back to the tip... and it is responsive enough that you can open and close it with slight throttle modulation.... My wife thinks I am a dork (she is right) and picked up on what I was doing right away.


Some manufacturers (Hyundai for example) are now controlling their stock BPV’s in a similar fashion, though its electronically modulated...
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 Old 06-04-2015, 11:19 AM   #30
 
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Any one run in pull mode? I have mine in A+B in pull mode. Is push better? Also do you guys valve rotate even with the clamp tightened?
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 Old 06-04-2015, 11:35 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by blake0521 View Post
Any one run in pull mode? I have mine in A+B in pull mode. Is push better? Also do you guys valve rotate even with the clamp tightened?
The seal is via an -ring. Don't try and overdo that clamp - oring seals will be able to rotate but you should feel some resistance.

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 Old 06-04-2015, 12:29 PM   #32
 
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So I should losen the clamp a tiny bit then? Also I am running it in pull since it seals better under boost. I couldn't really find any info on which is better and why. Anyone care to enlighten me? So far in pull mode I have no bucking and loose next to no spool when shifting. Wayyyy better then my Cobb bpv and cost less as well!
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 Old 06-04-2015, 12:32 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by blake0521 View Post
Any one run in pull mode? I have mine in A+B in pull mode. Is push better?
All of the configurations have been run, apparently successfully since people who offer their setup all seem happy with it. I actually am making a list on my PC at home of who from MSF has run it which way. According to Synapse push with B-only is the "fastest" setup... though I think the speed of actuation probably doesn't matter a lot once below a certain threshold and it's more about actuating when, and only when, needed. Synapse also says that push mode will leak boost above a certain threshold but I don't think I have seen a solid number for where that will happen either. It seems very difficult to get solid information on how to set this up.

Read the FAQs for a little more info, especially the first one and the push vs. pull one, not that it'll necessarily what you're looking for. Synapse Engineering Help Desk

I'm gathering more information but once I get an intake (so it will fit) I currently expect to first try it in pull B-only... obviously that might change.
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 Old 06-04-2015, 12:36 PM   #34
 
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All the info I got was from evo forums but on there platform everyone says run pull mode with a+b for daily and run b port only if on the track. The reason for that is a few guys were getting bad flutter/bucking on the track. I am going to do some logging next track day and see what I find.
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 Old 06-04-2015, 12:47 PM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by blake0521 View Post
All the info I got was from evo forums but on there platform everyone says run pull mode with a+b for daily and run b port only if on the track. The reason for that is a few guys were getting bad flutter/bucking on the track. I am going to do some logging next track day and see what I find.
Some of the low-throttle scenarios they described sounded like things that happen to me in day-to-day driving anyway. If you're driving well on the track the throttle should not be binary. I therefore fail to see how engine response setup for DD would be much different from track. With that said it may depend on the type of track or event being discussed as a big, open road course will be a lot different from autoX or attacking the Dragon.
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 Old 06-08-2015, 04:38 PM   #36
 
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Since installing the TR6 intercooler and reflashing on the AP from stage 2 to stage 3, I switched from push B-only, to push A+B. I did a run on the dragon, and don't really have any complaints. Kinda wish I had done one more pass though with it in B-only to compare. As for the tail of the dragon, what an amazing piece of roadway!… Can't wait to go back and run it again after getting a custom tune with @Lex; .
Sure beats the hell out of the straight flat roads here in Florida. Perhaps someday I'll move up to the mountains
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btstarcher (06-08-2015), Lex (06-09-2015)
 Old 02-09-2019, 04:46 PM   #37
 
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I run the synapse dv. And was told by synapse you can use a mbc with it to bleed off boost as overboost protection
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Thor Hammer (02-11-2019)
 Old 02-11-2019, 01:31 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by mike16241 View Post
I run the synapse dv. And was told by synapse you can use a mbc with it to bleed off boost as overboost protection
Thank you for updating a four year old post.
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