^ at 5500 ft of altitude, it self limits itself to max 15 psi anywhere after 5500 rpm :/

lil turbo can't be expected to pump air that isn't there...lol

My boost dial is working amazingly, getting 19/20 psi by 32/3400 rpm, and the car is so much more responsive on the load based tune.

How so fast!??! Full boost for me isnt till 3700-3800

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It varies on temp, additional load In the car etc. soonest ive seen is 3200, average is about 34/3500 I'd say

Boost dial is working great for me too! Improved spool and responsiveness and only on my 1st stratified revision!
20/21PSI by 3250-3350 :)
And that's with the dial set to orange 4.5 (about midway)

Cale don't you have a bigger turbo? I know your setup is flowing more g/s than Zayn. Targeting load means that you may need less boost to get to the same load if your setup flows very well.

I dont think so? I believe he has the gt3071 and I have the gtx.

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Correct, the gtx is supposed to flow better mid to up top I thought so you should be good

Thank you @Lex;!!
Recieved my Guardian Angel and Boost Dial today, looks awesome :)

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/6691/imag1722e.jpg
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2981/imag1731.jpg
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4083/imag1743.jpg

GA will be installed as soon as possible

Glad it made it safely! Thanks for posting sir!

hi alex,ive just ordered one of these from you due to pesky ossilations,correction table is well chopped down and its still a pain,im hoping this cures the problem,mods are in my sig,and log for you to see whats happening ,any tips on what setting to put in will be great,ill also be fitting the stock ebcs and not the gs

thanks lex

http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps88ff26a6.png

I would start with blue 8 - they are preset at those values and set the boost control logic to OEM.

hi lex,i had a boost dial delivered for a customers car thats coming for work next month so i fitted it to mine,couldnt wait for mine to arrive.

anyway we set the correction tables 75% of the stock values,reflashed the car and this was the outcome,not reached the load targets and the wgdc is high so adjust the valve untill the load is reached . much much smoother

http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdfc1cf7e.png

@mps6dave; post the log in csv format (not sure what the axes are there) here and the setting on the boost dial. What turbo is the car running?

Also I would set the correction table to stock values (this can change from turbo to turbo slightly) and perhaps adjust the WGDC base table a bit and the boost dial. The curve looks much smoother and you guys are getting a lot of these in the UK - thanks for that :)

its running the bnr3 turbo,the valve is preety damn good,wish it was out 21 map revisions earlier.

i did some messing today and think i need to raise the correction factors back to stock in the load tables as in crease the wgdc a little,i run 50% from 3-7k

also my idc is running 99%,so need to run meth or increase the fuel pressure with a better valve

Beautiful boost curve. Smooth, tapers towards redline, and you have 20psi by 3000 RPM :) Nice to see the Boost Dial is working as it should. It is a game changer once people use it and realize how easy it is to have smooth and responsive boost control with no oscillations or hassle.

A tip on the tune if I may. Try and target no less than 10* advance at redline even if you have to lower the load/boost. Dropping timing that low is costing more than dropping some load.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1361649496

Also don't use an aftermarket relief valve for the fuel rail. You will hit a cut as the sensor maxes out at around 2100psi and it's annoying. It's fine to have IDC even a bit above 100 but adding meth always helps and it will help with your timing.

its becoming hesitant/juddery up top when fueling gets to about 95%idc,im usually running 265kpa,9.5-10* up top , i can can run 2.38load up to 5k then tapers down to 2.15at 6900rpm if fueling allows it.

i may get a better in tank pump to help with fuel demand

I honestly don't think you have a fueling issues. I have tuned many cars on the stock fuel system with higher loads. If you're getting hesitations up top it's either spark blowout (tighten down the gap to 0.026) or knock.

its closing the throttle but acc pedal still 100%, wgdc drops then about a second later throttle plate.ill post a log hang on sir

here ya go bud

I don't see any throttle closure in that log but let's keep this thread on topic.

http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps103ee257.png

my bad sorry,back on topic tho,the valve definatly works and works very well

I've started testing my hybrid MBC/EBCS/Stratified Boost Dial approach. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...7/#post1928386

Sample logs and curves added to OP to better illustrate how to set the Boost Dial.

Looks solid Lex! Nice work man! :cop:

Where should I be getting the boost source from on a k04 with stock EBCS?


Sent while losing to TheFlash

The manifold OR the compressor housing. Be aware that the compressor housing has a restrictor built in.

At the moment I have it coming from the BPV line. I have the knob a quarter turn away from being maxed out and I'm still getting WGDC at 100% in the upper RPM's. I'm tapering to 17lbs at redline so I don't think I'm asking too much of the turbo. I'm waiting on a bigger intake and then I will be getting in touch with you for a tune. I would like to have this sorted out before that though.


Sent while losing to TheFlash

Are you spiking during spool? What happens if you go further into the + region? Be careful if you go fully to + your WG will see no boost and you will overboost for sure. Port up a log.

I do have a spike and have been working with the WG duty cycle down low to combat that. In the latest revision I have a small spike to 23, I am targeting 22. I have some more work to do because I now have a dip after the spike. I think that log I had the dial a half turn from max, I now have it a quarter turn and will try to get some logs tomorrow. I do have a 3bar MAP sensor so I know what I'm hitting when I do over boost. Here is the most recent log.

Based on your log you may be able to get more boost up top. Target to get 22 psi spool at around 45wgdc and you will need to lower both the wgdc and lec coarse table to start. Turn the dial up as you control your spool to avoid spikes. Also keep in mind that more boost up top may not mean more power.

Bought this boost dial, now I know how poor Canadians feel when they order stuff from here and get kicked in the nuts with shipping.

Also, I got my shipping confirmation and am SO used to seeing Canadian pharmacy emails that I almost deleted it. Gathering grains of sand that will be the mountain that is a BT speed.

Received my Strat boost dial last week & definitely a quality piece. Thanks Lex can't wait 2 get it installed along with BT & other parts.
Next custom Strat BT tune.:D

So I have both this and a grimmspeed ebcs, should I just use the boost dial with the stock bcs and change it out later if the stocker takes a crap? I figure I can do a top up tune later if that happens, unless I should just install it for the piece of mind.

Once the boost dial is ... dialed in ... the EBCS will have a fairly small effect. So essentially you can swap from the GS to the OEM and vice versa with minimal to no effect.

Thanks, that is great to know, don't hate me cause I didn't get the stratified EBCV, it was sold out :(

Absolutely not :) Thank you for getting the Boost Dial, I think you will be quite happy with the tuning results.

Just tuning an EWG GT3071 speed3 using the Boost Dial and OEM boost control solenoid. Look at the perfectly flat boost control with a quick spool and no spiking. You can have your cake and eat it too.

I've just ordered one of these boost dials and now I'm wondering how to configure my (boost based) software correctly.

Up to now I ran a GS ebcs in 3 port mode with a maximum required wgdc of 63-70 (depending on the temps/weather) in order to reach my desired target boost level of 22 psi, so over all I have a wgdc range from ~55-70 at wot.
Of course I also adujsted boost dynamics and load correction tables (besides some others) to meet the requirements.

Now I have a few questions about the correct start settings of the boost dial, in order to get the best "boost window":

- I intend to start with the blue ring, or shall I start with the red one?
- Do I have to reduce any values (wgdc/bd) or can I just leave everything as it is for the first try / test runs?
- How is the further processing? Which components (boost dial, wgdc, bd, boost targets...) have to be adjusted, what is the recommended order and step size for these adjustments to come to a solution without spending too much time? Is it sufficient to adjust only the boost dial little by little or will I also have to experiment a lot with all contributing (software) parameters?
- What is the actual aim - to reach the same wgdc level (and stable boost) as before?
In principle it should be possible to reach the same boost targets using different boost dial windows (but significant different wdgc levels), so what is the "best" setup?

I would start with the boost dial in the position that it is currently.

The aim is to get maximum desired boost in the upper RPM around the 90% wgdc point in warm weather.

During spool you should also not be getting spikes.

Take a look at the example tables posted in the first page here and the instructions document.

Thank's Lex, I just wasn't sure if I should try to keep wgdc quite low (using a red or even golden boost dial setup) or to target something around 90% (using a "softer" setting) in order to achieve my boost targets. You know, there are always several ways to reach the same target state.
So I will probably have to increase my wgdc table significantly. Nevertheless, the main goal will be to have a stable, non oscillating/non spiking boost curve.

You will find a sweet spot in the tuning window of the boost dial where boost ramps up quickly without overshooting targets. If you have it set too far in the + side you will see boost spikes when it spools. If you set it too low (-) you will see slow spool and your WGDC go to 100% without reaching boost targets.

Once you found the correct sweet spot, you leave it and use the ECU to control boost. The setting it comes at is a good setting to start from and you will need minimal changes in most cases.

If anyone has any questions regarding this boost control method give me a shout. I know it's not the conventional "way" but the results are excellent.

After a few weeks of waiting (especially for the German customs) I finally got my boost dial and now I have an installation question:
The 3rd ("middle") port of my GS is not connected to the wastegate, but to the boost source.
So, shall I "deactivate" the port which is now connected to the wastegate or the port "3" in your diagram, which (in my case) goes to the boost source? Actually I would plug the boost dial in the current connection line from the GS to the boost source and connect the tool to the wastegate, leaving the intake line as it is.
I'm a little bit confused...

Check out our 3 port setup diagram:

http://www.stratifiedauto.com/images...203%20Port.png

I already studied this diagram - there is also a Grimmspeed example in this thread where the installation seems to be different from mine, too.
The basic question is: should I change/adjust my connections so that they are equal to the ones in your diagram or shall I leave everything as it is (because it works and cannot be totally wrong) and just put the boost dial in the boost source connection line and connect it to the wastegate afterwards, deactivating my current wg port? In principle this is what your diagram shows, although you are using other ebcs ports/port numbers.

This evening I wanted to test the boost dial, and...this was the "funniest" test drive ever!
Although I adjusted the boost dial to the red setting (at least for my last run), commanding up to 22 psi at wot (wgdc 60-80), I just reached ~14 psi maximum boost pressure!
Since there are no boost leaks, I was obviously wrong and have to correct my port settings...
But, can anyone explain why (in my case) in 3 port mode the port connections were ok and everything worked fine, but when switching to 2 port mode, I have to change them - probably to the ones on the boost dial diagram?!?

The connections should be as per the diagram whether it's a GS solenoid or a Stratified one. The port numbers are the same. Basically the 3 port is setup in "2 port mode" and it bleeds boost pressure away from the WG actuator line.

Finally I've found the reason for my confusion:
If you have a look at the "official" GS installation guide: https://www.grimmspeed.com/install_g...MazdaSpeed.pdf
you can see that the connections for the GS running in 2 port mode are totally different from those for the 3 port mode!
In any case, the boost dial diagram shows the correct settings, which I will test tomorrow ;-)

BTW: The diagram from SarcasticOne on page 3 of this thread shows the correct settings for a GS using the boost dial.

This is why I made those diagrams, to remove any confusion. The port numbers for our solenoid, COBB, GS, are all the same so just follow our diagram and the same port numbers if you have a different solenoid.

Here is my personal impression after the first test runs using the (now correctly installed) boost dial :

First of all I chose the "blue + 1" setting, meaning "almost blue".

The best thing is that boost is much more smooth and stable now, without the "huge" oscillations which I had before, especially for high revs and high boost.
The driving feels so much more comfortable now, and knock tendency also seems to be reduced.
I got some overboosting during spool up, but this was due to the fact that my start wgdc values were much too hight (commanded: 60-65, required: 40-50).
Boost builds up a little bit later but faster now (at exactly 3k) and reaches the target boost level of 21.5-22 psi for high revs with max. observed wgdc values of 75-80. Before the installation, when using the GS in 3 port mode, I needed 65-70, so this is less than expected (which leaves a lot of headroom :-)

@Lex: I intend to keep this setting and focus on adjusting the wgdc table accordingly, or should I try to find an even better boost dial setup?

In any case, it's a very nice tool and absolutely recommendable!

I'm a little confused. You say boost builds a little later, but faster? Am I reading that wrong lol

It's just an impression: I command noticeable boost not before 3k. Before, I had already boost at 2.8-2.9k - now it looks like the rise at 3k is sharper, meaning a faster build up. But 100 revs are a negligible difference, moreover boost below 3k is not the best for our engines ;-)

The majority of the tuning still happens in the tune but the boost dial makes the tuning much easier and smoother. The key is to setup the boost dial correctly and then move to the electronic tuning.

What WGDC do you have at redline and what boost are you running and what is your target? If you are not reaching targets and WGDC is 100% and the turbo can get you those targets you need to move it more towards + slowly. If you are fighting spool spikes with relatively low WGDC values then you need to move it towards -.

Say my target is 25psi on the BNR S3.
I set the boost dial such that between 95 - 100% WGDC in hot weather I am reaching that 25psi at redline

The idea here is to shape your wgdc table such that you spool quickly without spiking while running 75-85% up top. This leaves room for really hot days AND really cold days while providing for plenty of precision for your tune to manage boost.

Hope I didn't step on any toes @Lex;!

tapawhat

That's what I've thought, too.

- I have no big boost spikes or oscillations during spool up
- nevertheless fast boost buildup
- I reach my boost targets (22 psi) up top at wgdc ~80
- The boost curve is smooth and stable
So, why should I change the boost dial setup further - just to reach wgdc values of 90-95 at redline?
At the moment I have no major issues and enough headroom it I want to increase my target boost further (even for hotter weather conditions)...
The boost fluctuations I had around 3k were just because of much too high wgdc start values (which is absolutely consistent, since when I still used the 2-port oem ebcs, I also had to reduce wgdc at 3k-4k and ramp it up afterwards).
So, is it really required to "target" a maximum wgdc of ~95 when adjusting the boost dial???

I dont want to restrict my boost curve too much, so that there's enough room to run different maps without having to adjust the boost dial each time.
Now I have all advantages that I expected:
- no more huge spikes possible
- smoother, more stable boost curve (especially up top)
- comparing to oem reduced wgdc (something between 3-port mode and oem)
- no more need to play around with all kind of boost/wgdc correction tables
- faster boost buildup (although that was not so important for me)

That's absolutely enough for me and I'm very satisfied!

That's excellent, it sounds like you have the boost dial setup correctly. Happy to hear you're enjoying the smooth boost control.

As much as 3 port is preferred by a lot of people, 2 port boost control is not only easier to dial in but smoother as well and with the Boost Dial it can be applied to ANY turbo.

With a large wastegate such as an EWG it is even more of a breeze.

This afternoon I've made some more test runs and the results weren't as impressive as before, probably because of the extreme high ambient temps (iat > 45°C - I didn't get much higher load values than 2.1!). Under these abnormal weather conditions you cannot expect anything, but the results were still better than in 3-port mode...This time the maximum wgdc at high revs was around 90, so it really seems that the current boost dial setup is ok.

This may also have to do with the tune. At high temperatures loads will be lower - are you targeting load or boost?

I'm targeting boost, all correction tables are stock (except for the load comp tables, which are zero'd out) and wgdc is chosen a little bit lower (max 80) than observed. I know that the tune is not yet perfect, since I use much more oem (correction/adjustment) tables than before.
Concerning the low load values, I just wanted to demonstrate how hot it was ;-)
BTW: I guess one reason for the quite stable boost curve is that in 2-port mode the boost system is not so sensitive to little changes in wgdc, which is why boost fluctuations during the correction process are also smaller.

Exactly correct and why it is used by the oems.

Wow, why did I not know this existed? I'm going to order one for my BNR install.

Lex I recently installed a Cobb FMIC and ported my intake which has made dialing in boost a bit tricky. So I just purchased a boost dial which hopefully will help, I was just wondering when its comes to switching maps from say a 20psi map to a RT 26psi map am i going to have to adjust the boost dial or do you think i'll be able to find a happy medium which will work in both scenarios?

This all depends on the other hardware installed. Generally speaking you should find a happy medium within that window.

On a related note I haven't seen an order for a dial come in. Make sure it was submitted.

Awesome thanks

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

It's hard to beat the smoothness of 2 port boost control using the Boost Dial.

This is a GTX3076 internally gated turbo. EWG setups work even better with the boost dial.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1399391703

The killer combo with the boost dial is an external wastegate setup. It is just so easy to get picture perfect boost control.

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...1&d=1409541490

So you recommend ditching 3 port gs, and use the boost dial with the gs in 2 port/ewg on the 3076?

You can achieve good boost control with the 3 port as well. The boost dial allows you to build a tune that is very flexible however when coupled with an ewg. The shortcoming of the boost dial is being able to drive the last pound of boost from a turbo and that is inherent to two port control. However with an ewg this is not an issue and you get to keep the flexibility and higher resolution of the two port/boost dial setup.

Hmmm. I have your boost dial sitting in a box. I have a GS in 3 port currently. I have a GTX3076 with a tial hotside on the car. Current boost control is great...but im only running 16psi. Game plan is to NOT run over 23-24psi...and this turbo can go at least 30 psi....so I won't be at the point where I need to extract the last pound of boost, I'm well below that threshold. Perhaps I should give this at try. I'm just not fully understanding why I would want to do this vs my current 3 port.

The advantage is the tuning resolution. Let's say that for a 3 port 5% WGDC change results in 1 psi boost change. For the boost dial 10% WGDC change results in 1 psi boost change. This is just an example. What this means is that you have finer control over boost and are less likely to oscillate or spike.

Try both methods!