I have been using the Mcmaster carr "M" nozzles for 7 years...

They work great.

I have a few left from my first kit. The far left brass ones are still cheaper. Devil's own nozzles were $6 for a while. Glad I grabbed some, even though it will probably bring me up to 25 nozzles from 4 different companies for two different kinds of kits.

Keep an eye out - we might have something very elegant for mounting for you guys ...

How soon?

I just order my SP stage 2 kit and was looking for some silicone mounting adapters or figuring out how to do this washer method.

I was planning to install my meth kit then get a tune from Stratified :)

I'm not promising timeframes at the moment as things are in development at the moment. After this there will be testing and if all works out; it will be out for sale.

The tunes however are always available :)

Ahhh true, might be a little wait then. Guess I will go with a DO nozzle and using washers to seal it in the silicone.

Definitely want to get my meth installed before I get a tune though, unless there not much point waiting but I am sure the meth will give more room for tuning for you guys.

For my set-up should I get a solenoid or check valve? I am a little confused as to when they are needed/used. I haven't mounted or installed anything so I can change the arrangement of my set-up, all I have right now is the Snow Performance Stage 2 MAF.

So does the OEM washer pump keep a constant supply in the window washer lines/WMI lines by default? Or does the OEM wiring need to be messed with?

I haven't seen any issues with running a check valve and there are fewer things that can fail. And yes, WMI does certainly give you more headroom, especially in the summer and in areas with poorer quality fuel.

The wiring does not have to be touched.

I'm in, you know I'm ready for WMI, and as the temps rise, things arent going to get any better.

Ug guess I'll put my check book back...thought this was a new product release.

Not just yet :)

Well hopefully soon, because I have some tax return money, and I've been closer to pulling the trigger for some meth to help supplement. But I would like something that is well integrated.

Few quick questions.

The setup with the t's as pictured. Is this the correct way for my 2013? Along with the inline check valve connection? (Note I left my rear washer line feed unhooked because I do not use it.)

In the other image could I just use the rear line by itself as a feed (unhook from the white connection) or is there not enough flow by itself? Or other issues?

I think I made a mistake. Does this look more like it??

As long as the WMI us drawing from both pump outputs then that is all you need. So it looks like both were going to work.

I am having an issue using my d07 nozzle in the cobb coupler. There is no way two washers can be used. Im looking into getting a fitting from mc master.

This is right from DO's website
7 GPH (441ml/min) Micro Droplet Methanol

On mc master I found a nozzle that resembles the DO specs

part # 3178K52 in stainless steel

40psi 4.43 flow rate gph
100psi 7 flow rate gph

McMaster-Carr


I see it only comes in hollow cone so this wont work? I will need full right?

D07 appears to only be offered in the hollow cone... Idk what effects that could cause. Good question for lex.. :01:

But you would have zero issues using the McM nozzle with 2 washers, I'll post up a pic w/ 4ply coupler using 2 washers and it feels solid..

I am having an issue using my d07 nozzle in the cobb coupler. There is no way two washers can be used. Im looking into getting a fitting from mc master.

This is right from DO's website
7 GPH (441ml/min) Micro Droplet Methanol

On mc master I found a nozzle that resembles the DO specs

part # 3178K52 in stainless steel

40psi 4.43 flow rate gph
100psi 7 flow rate gph

McMaster-Carr


I see it only comes in hollow cone so this wont work? I will need full right?

Remember to use very thin washers. Mcmaster sells some very thin units.

I am having my spare cold tube tapped for the WMI injector this week. If there is enough material, perhaps tapping it alone will be enough, otherwise the machine shop will have to fashion a bung. On the MS6, there's a great place on the cold tube right before the coupler to get a straight shot to the throttle body. I'll post pics when I am done.

I am a little frustrated with DO; their boost controller was on backorder even though they were showing in stock; I have had a couple unanswered emails since and finally got an answer when I called today. If all goes well, I will be installing my WMI this weekend.

I bought 4 gallons of the snow premade meth/water to start, but I already sourced a local place that sells VP M1 so I can mix my own.

If you check your local hardware store, you might find some stainless washers that are likewise very thin compared to your typical fare.

Could you link them to me?

Tested out 1 crush washer as seen. I was not able to use a washer on the outside thow.

Im still a bit worried it may leak or blow out. No washer I can push the entire nozzle threw.

Here's my solution for the nozzle. $30 later at a local welding shop.

The nozzle isn't going anywhere now, and the nozzle is out of the way of the airflow.

If the holder feels like it will push through, it is not going to seal. You will need to find thinner washers or remove material from some of the parts involved.

Lex,
What about utilizing a thinner, 3-ply coupler versus the 4-ply cobb coupler to help free up some threads for a better seal?

There are many ways to skin the proverbial cat ... and that's one of them.

Here's a simple supplement to Lex's guide. This is just a simple wiring diagram I used to help me along during my install.

http://www.intergate.com/~rpurcell/m...WMI_wiring.png

Lex, is your pump held on with 1 bolt and 3 zip ties?

There's padding behind it so the metal bracket doesn't contact the frame. That padding allows for the effective tightening of the zip ties and holding the pump snugly. Haven't had an issue in 4 years and I didn't want to drill any holes.

Thanks for the info. Did you also toss out the rubber spacers that came with the pump, and switch out for rubber washers? Is that the padding you are talking about?

Sorry for noob questions.. I am in the process of mounting the pump right now. The pump is much heavier than I was thinking, and I worries about it bouncing around...

There isn't a one size fits all for this. I would have at least 1 bolt and if using straps get the heavier duty thicker ones and double up. The padding is just rubber pieces I had lying around so the pump bracket doesn't contact the frame.

This pump was used and the rubber washers/stoppers were mostly missing.

Thank you, great information

Here's another pump install from last week. This time the feed line was also run through the bumper beam.

I didn't want to go this route due to using a shit ton of washer fluid in the winter but I just might now. @Lex; is the pump in that picture bolted on or just zip tied?

Both. You want at least 1 bolt.

Dale, you have the yellow wire going to the positive on the battery. Did you do this instead of using the float sensor?

I do not plan on using my float sensor, and was wondering what to do with the yellow wire. I was just going to tape it off, then I thought I would ground it, now it looks like maybe I should hook it to the positive.

Now I dont know what to do with it...

If you aren't tuned for your kit, then you can simply turn off the kit in the winter, unless of course you don't have a winter.

Oh. but I do lol.

It isn't my ideal solution at all but it'll hold me over until I can figure out an alternative. Just ordered a few odds and ends to complete my kit.

Run 50%+ meth, pump it through the pump, or whatever mix won't freeze, then unhook the pump's power, or, just uninstall it and plug the hose and nozzle.

That's the plan. I need the octane much more than cooling, so I'll mix one gallon meth with one gallon WWF, giving me ~75% meth. I'll throw a switch on the pump and run a less aggressive tune for the worst months.

Or I could just buy a beater...

Be careful with the blue washer fluid. The dye seems to build up on the nozzle filter and orifice.

Yeah I saw you mention that earlier... I'm thinking I might be ok with a 75% mix?

I was looking at the "Pacer" brand -35 from Canadian Tire if it makes any difference. MSDS states 40-50% methanol.

I would personally just buy methyl hydrate and mix my own.

Still curious to the elegant mounting @Lex; ... :cool:

tapping.... tap tap

It can also build up in your oil if you use enough of it. DO suggests using CLR to clean things out twice a year.

We have drums of pure methanol at work, we use it to wash off the excess glue on what we make.

My boss said I could have some, mix it with water and voila! :D

Hi Lex,

First and foremost I wanted to thank you for the inspiration. I decided to run your diagram for my setup as opposed to tapping the tank, so I installed last night. While setting up the system I wanted to keep the pump close to tank so I decided to make a bracket, and re-locate the horns (which now sit behind the reservoir):

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...926_203346.jpg

On the 6 we have that weird 90 degree cold pipe. Right before the connection to the TB there's a little circle that was screaming for tap:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...926_235345.jpg

Started up, primed pump last night, no leaks...etc. Everything looking good from all angles. Ensured everything was plugged in and looking good to go. The only thing I cannot figure out is my dash light (for the windshield fluid) consistently stays on now.

Has anyone else run into this? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated, I'm currently at a loss. I'm sure its something easy, I hope...

Did you make sure the sensor in the tank is plugged in/no wiring shorts since you were working in the area?

I sure did, but I'm going to rip the bumper off again today to ensure I didn't pull some sort of dumb ass maneuver. I hope that's the mistake I made but I figured I'd inquire, just in case there was something else I may have done to trigger the light.

The sensor is simple. Fluid closes the circuit. If there is no fluid, the circuit is open and light is on. So a break in the wire, disconnection, etc. will trigger the light.

Sub'd for future install

What is everyone using as far as a fluid level sensor for the guys in the States?

How's this coming along sir? :smile:

Two weeks.....

Ducking & Running.

So sure enough, the sensor in the tank was indeed plugged in.

The only difference between my system, compared to the diagram; is that on my setup I go from the line to the WMI pump, into AEM's methanol injection filter, and then into the pump itself.

Lex, would you happen to believe that going to the filter (prior to the pump) may be my culprit to the dash light? I'm trying to think of any logic as to why this would be the culprit, but I truly don't see the logic there.

I suppose I will remove the filter and re-install the line without the filter, but before I do so...would you mind letting me know what your thoughts are?

DISREGARD, I dunno wtf happened. But unplugging the sensor and plugging it back in did the trick. *scratches head.

Does anyone know if a US Gen 1 has the low level washer fluid light connector is wrapped up in the general area? I know it won't have the sensor on the reservoir. Just trying to see if the connector is there so I can order an OEM sensor and tap the tank.

Nope I didn't see a spare sensor on the harness anywhere.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

At least there is ONE thing the Canadian cars had that is better than the US :)

I remember when I fitted cruise control on my car, because the first Euro Spec models didn't have that from the factory (not before 2008.5 in my area, some the ones sold Germany by example had it). The cabling was already there (both on the steering wheel controls and the brake pedal switch) and the guy from the dealer told me that the hardness on these cars is not different. If something is not there the most that needs to be done is to connect the new equipment/sensor/wire to the right connector.

Most probably the cars that don't have the washer fluid sensor have the dash light for it, as well as the support in the car harness and eventually PCM - it needs that to cut the rear and headlights washer nozzles when the level goes below 1/3 of the tank (which is about 3.2 liters I think, not even a gallon).

So track down the cable for that sensor to the first connector on a car that has it and fit your own, most probably that's the only thing you need to do.

Although I don't like necroposting, does anyone with a Pu have pictures of this method, more specifically the connection to the reservoir? I plan on going this route for cooling.

The Gen2 has a pump with two outlet and you will need to T into each and then join the two Ts from where the WMI pump is drawing.

So liquid can ba drawn from this setup without the WW pump turning on?

This is correct.

Awesome, I might be running meth soon after your suggestions from two years ago, haha. ;)

Should I avoid using brass t fittings with a 50/50 mix or should I just stick to plastic?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/31/2ysaduzy.jpg

Sent from Stockish Pu

Sorry kinda necro threading

I've plumbed the pump using your diagram, and I'm getting crappy pressure as well as spraying both when using the washer, like you said would happen with the gen 2.

There is no way to correct this right? Doesn't satisfy my OCD lol
@Lex;

Are you getting poor pressure at the WMI nozzle or just poor pressure with the washer on the windshield?

Just using the washer

Since you are pushing fluid through both nozzles you will have less pressure.

I've only plumbed to the pump and have the line coming out of the pump capped off. If I take the cap off of the pump fluid is coming out, and I don't even have the pump wired yet. Is the pump open when no power is going to it?

You mean the methanol pump? Yes this can be the case and this is why you need a check valve or solenoid before the nozzle.

Would you recommend using both a check valve and solenoid? I am in the process of building a devil's own dvc-30 kit, and was wondering if using both would be effective?

Only if you are using nozzles in two different locations. pre-turbo and pre throttle body, or pre and post throttle body

I was just confused about the need for a Check valve for the front windshield washers on the diagram for the Pu.

I'll let a pu head answer that one. I was only referring to the actual meth kit itself.

Check valve is to prevent the line from draining back and losing prime

Hmm, I have no idea where I can get a chack valve for the windshield washer line.

This is the exact valve I got, works fine

http://m.ebay.ca/itm/191105648699?nav=SEARCH

As quoted by Lex

subbing for more info, really like this company.

What more is there to know, other than it works and you can put your stuff back to stock, not to mention you can subscribe to thread without posting.

If you have further questions don't hesitate to ask or send me a msg.

Although I have made a separate thread, I figured it is worth mentioning here that P/N BN8F67480C on onlinemazdaparts is the large Canadian reservoir. It bolts in place in U.S. cars. I was unable to find a connector for the low level sensor on our harness. The low level sensor is open when the tank is full, and closed when the tank drops below the float.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t.../IMAG04651.jpg

-Forrest

Stratified Meth kit install using stock washer reservoir
 

I've just done an install on our ST and applied another method for tapping the tank.

I made a 1/4 hole at the very top and fed in a WMI hose all the way to the bottom of the tank. I used rubber over top of the hard WMI tubing as a stopper to make sure it stays in place but with a 1/4" hole it should fit WMI tubing very snugly.

This can help out the gen2 guys that have the more complicated setup.Attachment 179331

Attachment 179333

I've gone through the thread and I apologize if I'm missing something obvious, but does it spray when you activate the WWF or would i need to install a progressive meth controller/module to tune it based on PSI?

You need a pump controller for the methanol pump. Boost based control is very common. Others use MAF input.

The WWF pump is still only for the windshield.

So I've had my DO MAF kit installed now for about two weeks, and I've got a canadian washer tank coming in so I can have more capacity and wire up the low level light to my controller. I have a question though, could I just unplug the fluid line supplying the rear window sprayer, cap it off, then hook up the front windshield washer supply line to the pump that was originally supplying the rear window? That would leave the pump at the bottom (the one that originally supplied the windshield) open to use as my supply to my pump?

@Lex; any input on my last post?

Thought I replied - weird. Yes this should be fine.

@Lex; can you or anyone make it easy and just compile a parts list from amazon for the t-fittings, the check valve/ solenoid, the nozzle, the washers, the boost pickup and recommended meth?

I think everyone agrees here youve done a great job diagramming it, just help us so we leave no page unturned by making your idea a reality!

Trying to bring WMI to norcal for a pu, no one around me seems to run it

Any mounting kits lex?

Hey Lex and anyone else,

I was wondering; could I cap the back windows washer line at the washer pump and put a check Valve higher up for the front windshield washer hose (near the top of the hood) and then T into the line (near the check valve) with the WMI pump hose (to pump)?

Would the washer fluid (meth & water) be available that high up the washer hose since I installed the check valve (limited knowledge on check valves)? Would it have enough pressure?

The reason I ask is because this could allow for better gravity feed and maybe the opportunity mount the pump in a different spot than we usually do.

Any input would be great.

(I saw a bimmer setup like this.)

Hi !

I'm interest to go this way for my WMI setup ... I will take a JMF Intake Manifold + meth bung with part from Devil's Own for the pump and everything else. Can you tell me if I'm right and if I'm missing something just tell me thanks

Here the part :

- 4 x DO2 nozzles => http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...zzles-do2.html
- 4 port injection kit => http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...n-upgrade.html
- Solenoid
- Progressive Controller
- Pump => http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...tion-pump.html
- 7/32" ID hose
- T connection
- Gallon 50/50 Methanol => https://www.renodepot.com/en/windshi...-fluid-0263051

Here the graph (replace the check valve by the solenoid) :

@Lex;

can you give me your impression on this please

Thanks

As I just read a comment from Richard at Aquamist in regards to your direct port pic, I thought I would post a link for you to read.

waterinjection.info - View Single Post - Questions on my direct port meth setup

I will install a solenoid so ... I will be ok ...

Devil's Own give with there setup 1/4 nylon hose ... I just asking how do you process to connect your WMI Pump 1/4 connection with the 7/32 oem windshield washer hose ???

Where you find your stuff in Canada for this ... 7/32 tubing + 7/32 T Coupler + 7/32 to 1/4 coupler ???

Thanks for your help