Then simply write the reply in the email body for all the fields in the form.
And also write that you have read and understand the liability statement.

That is all that is needed.

sent.

I would like to thank and recommend Stratified to any perspective MS3 owners looking to get an affordable/safe e-tune. Their OTS+ maps are a vast improvement over the preloaded Cobb OTS maps. On top of the noticeable gain in power, the drivability is even more enjoyable and the power delivery is linear. For $25, I can't recommend a more worth while expense (aside from a full custom tune i'm sure) for the MZR platform. Big smile from this guy. :You_Rock_Emoticon:

Thanks for the kind words! Couldn't be happier to hear that you're enjoying your speed that much more because of our maps.

Hey Lex, I forgot to mention that I have a built engine bored out +0.020" with forged rods and pistons (ZZB recovery). Everything else is OEM except the JBR stg 2 intake. Based on that and what you're seeing in my logs, is there any compatibility issue with the OTS map and the built engine?
Thanks

There shouldn't be any issues. Of course now that you have a strong foundation you can definitely build up from there to much loftier power goals.

Ok cool, thanks.

I definitely have a lot of headroom for power on this engine. Once I do some more upgrades (HPFP internals and DP next) I'll talk to you about a custom tune.

I just took this log today after installing the JBR SRI/TIP last week. Looks like my LTFTs are off. I'm assuming the MAF cal is unnecessary, or you included it in the MAP? Maybe I have a boost leak?

Strat OTS maps are already pre-MAF calibrated for the JBR intake systems. I can't open your log here but if you're off signifigantly I would check for leaks.

If you are seeing large LTFT in the +, check for leaks after the MAF but before the turbo (likely since you just installed these parts).

If you are seeing large LTFT in the -, check for leaks after the turbo.

Hope I got those two right. I get them mixed up in my head all the time.

You got those right. I am checking with Jamie to see if anything changed with the MAF housing for these intakes.

I tightened down the clamps on the intake this morning and drove around for like 50 miles. The STFT seem to stay within + or - 4% with the occasional blip up or down. The LTFT are still a bit off. I guess I should do a pressure test, I just can't see how I could have a boost leak.

Here's another log.

I am currently being stratified tuned by Stan. Great experience so far. I too appeared to have a slight intake leak with JBR stage 2 power path. Everything seemed tight. I ended up switching to the JBR three inch intake just prior to starting the tunning process.

They are a little off. I am discussing with Jamie if anything has changed in these intakes over the last batch.

That being said, you have nothing to worry about in terms of safety. The AFRs under WOT are right on target and under part throttle you are far away from throwing a CEL or having any such issues.

My PP intake was awfully tight if not touching the batery box/ ECU. Almost like the T.I.P. Was longer before it made the 90 deg turn if that makes sense. I felt like I needed a 51r batery box. I sent Jamie pics.

There have been no changes to our intakes since day one.

I think we talked about this? That it was most likely due to the motor be more towards the drivers side vs. the passenger side. There is almost 1" of side to side adjustment in the motor mounts. If the motor is more towards the drivers side it can make the TIP tighter to fit in between the motor and the ECU/battery box.

Yes Jamie and I discussed the position of the motor and the position of the intake. I thought that maybe if Lex was seeing variation in MAF cal that maybe something changed in production. Jamie has been very helpful and responsive. I never did find leak or deformity in MAF housing from over tightening. I am very happy with my three inch intake bypass hose intercooler boost tubes and egr delete from JBR. Side note / vent had oil change at dealer Friday noticed oil spot on ground tonight. Popped hood no dip stick. Oil on front of motor and plastic under tray. Of course dealer closed. Should make a interesting morning tomorrow.

Just recently installed the stage 3 power path intake from JBR and flashed the s-ots stage 1 93 map to my speed.

First things first.. Love this fucking intake.. this thing is dripping with win. The sound of the turbo spooling up, the sound of the intake sucking air when I get on it... pure sex.

The map to go with it was just over the top. This JBR and stratified partnership for the intake is so money. I must admit it is what tipped the scales for me to purchase the JBR intake (not that it isn't worthy in its own right). The difference between cobb map and s-ots map is night and day! On a side note.. also installed the JBR rear sway bar and again... this shit is tits.... so money.

On to my question.. after driving for a week all was good till last night when I got a cel pop up.. seems like the random genpu luck of the draw p0101 bank 1 too lean. Chalked it up to installer fail and went ahead and triple checked everything on my ride.

Let me fuel trims settle after about a 60 mile drive to work so on the way home I thought I'd take a couple logs (these are my first and I just realized I only took it to about 6k rpm's instead of 6.5)

Would really appreciate any input on the logs to let me know if something looks off that might trip a cel. Really hoping it was just my failure of an installation and didn't tighten everything down correctly.

Any input is appreciated.. Thanks!

Oops forgot attachments!

I'm very happy to hear you like the new parts.

I don't see anything too out of the ordinary in the 4th gear log. LTFT's are just a teency bit high. How many miles did it have on it before the light came on? Let me know if the light comes back on.

-Jamie

I'd say probably about 500-600 miles before light popped after install. Re-installed everything this morning so I unplugged battery. 74 miles on it today with no cel but will keep an eye on it.

My car pulls hard on the stratified tune but I'm dissapointed that there is still boost limiting in low gears when steering. Can that be changed?

Unplug SWAS...though there are side effects.

Everyone,

Just wanted to make this absolutely clear since I have heard that some people are using these maps with COBB intakes or similar.

Running an S-OTS map with an intake OTHER than a JBR PowerPath will result in load, boost, air/fuel, and timing calculations to be incorrect. This can cause the car to run lean, too much boost, and in general not run safely. These maps are to be used with the JBR PowerPath intakes only and should not be used with other intakes.

If you want an S-OTS built for your intake then your option is the S-OTS+ and the S-OTS+ E85

Stratified MazdaSpeed / Mazda MPS S-OTS+ Tune [Stratified Mazda S-OTS+ Tune] - $40.00CAD : Stratified Automotive Controls

Stratified MazdaSpeed / Mazda MPS S-OTS+ E85 Tune [Stratified Mazda S-OTS+ E85 Tune] - $50.00CAD : Stratified Automotive Controls

So I'm looking at picking up a JBR power path stage 2 intake and running the stage 1 S-OTS map with stock fuel pump internals... Most of the local nator guys are telling me to continue using the Cobb stage 0 OTS map until i get upgrade internals and not flash over to stage 1 stratified OTS map.

Would I be safe running the OTS map with stock internals or should I wait?

The stage 1 S-OTS map will be fine with stock internals.

-Jamie

It isn't in cold weather.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll probably just wait it out get internals and flash over to stage 2

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

If you have extensive flow modifications such as a catless setup or even a well flowing catted downpipe and exhaust it's probably going to overwhelm the OEM pump.

But then again that's not a stg1 car anyways.

If you have data to show that the OEM pump is not fine with a stg1 car and tune then I'd like to see these.

I made this statement because with only an intake on the stage 1 map a good friend of mine was dropping below 1600 psi with a 2013 in sub 40 degrees.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like I said, I'd like to see some datalogs. The more data I see the better I have an idea if it's an issue that needs to be addressed.

Was he dropping below 1400psi? Or just around 1500.

It was in the 1500s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is on the edge but still acceptable. Anything lower than this?

Not from what I recall.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so as long as I don't dip below 1600 psi I'm good? Are there other parameters that should be looked at to ensure everything is running properly and safely?

Here are the specs to which the maps are designed. As well as you meet these guidelines you are good to go:

HPFP (High pressure fuel pump) pressure: Under WOT (wide open throttle) your fuel pressure should not drop below 1500psi. If this is not the case, upgrade the high pressure fuel pump or a custom map is needed for your particular car.

Boost Pressure: Under WOT, boost pressure should not exceed 22psi. Boost pressure will vary depending on the map you have as well as the environmental conditions. Stg1 boost should be 16psi+/-2psi and Stg2 boost should be 18psi +/-2psi. However this may be higher in the summer and lower in the winter due to ambient temperatures.

LTFT (Long term fuel trims): Your long term fuel trims should not exceed +/-15%. If this is not the case there is either a boost leak or the map is not well suited for your intake setup and a custom map is needed.

Air-Fuel Ratios: AFRs should be between 12.0 and 10.8 AFR under WOT operation. If this is not the case there is either a boost leak or the map is not well suited for your intake setup and a custom map is needed.

Knock Retard: If knock retard exceeds 2+ degrees under regular WOT operation, the fuel quality is not sufficient for the map used. Either increase the fuel quality or a custom map is needed for your fuel quality. Remember that knock will happen sometimes. What you are looking for is consistent knock retard under WOT operation. High values of knock retard under part throttle are normal in this vehicle.

Spark plug gap: If you are experiencing any misfiring or spark blow-out make sure the spark plugs are gapped to 0.026". We recommend a step colder plug with these calibrations but it is not required.

Took a log and just wanted your opinion @Lex;

LTFTs are a little high but they are not affecting your AFRs at all. You are also right on the edge of knock with the fuel you are using and this map which is a good place to be since it means maximum performance/efficiency. So everything looks good - how does the car drive?

i just wanted to thank stratified for their super fast responses. i received my map a couple hours after i sent the form in.
Ive attached a few logs comparing the cobb ots stage 1 maps that were for the CS intake and TIP, and the first few logs i took on the S-OTS+ map i received earlier this week.
i still have a minor boost leak somewhere but have not had time to diagnose were. anyway Thank You so Much Stratified for the huge difference the car has made in a week!!!

So typically drives well. But today, I filled up at the same gas station I used last time which I had thought made the car drive well and now I'm seeing knock which I've never seen before in other logs at WOT. Maybe it's a bad batch because VS is also showing 250 HP and 288 TQ which seems a tad low compared to what others have achieved with similar mods.

Are you seeing KR just at times or all the time? In the logs KR was minimal so trying a few different gas stations may give you just a bit of edge to stay knock free.

I really had not been seeing any knock until this fill up. I'd like to get close to 300 whp and then be able to save some cash for a bnr down the road. All that's left though is a new TMIC, custom tune, and/or a larger intake. I wish someone would just make a 3inch SRI with an adapted for a stock size TIP.

If you want to make sure you exceed 300whp and have E85 around that is the way to go. You wouldn't even need more modifications beyond what you currently have aside from the tune.

I've thought about E85, the closest station is probably 25 to 30 minutes away from me. I've looked into those 14 gallon containers, but it still becomes a nuisance.

lol, my car got close to 290whp fast....and now I'm kicking and screaming hoping to get that last little bit before the next time I'm on a dyno.

Don't know what to tell ya man, I must have a turd for an engine. Are we still using 1.01 on VD and 3 for smoothing?

Hell if I know. A lot of people will tell you 1.01. Some others will point out that one of the later release notes for VD said that he had corrected this.

I don't use VD to know how much HP I have but to compare vs other logs instead...and I just use the Dynojet preset of 1.09.

Just got done breaking in my hpfp internals and immediately loaded the Stage 2 93oct map. I feel a noticeable bump in performance from the stage 1 OTS map and the couple brief WOT pulls look good on boost/hpfp press/KR. Will run complete logs this weekend before and after I install my CX FMIC.

Thanks a lot Stratified!

By the way, is there a problem running the OTS stage 2 93oct with the CX FMIC, or is that OTS+ territory? I'm going to do OTS+ anyways to kill some CEL codes but just wondering what to expect.

Thanks guys

As long as it is leak free there should be no issues. Post up a log and I will be glad to have a look.

Sounds good, gonna try to do it this weekend

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

any idea why I am getting a

unable to load base map
Invalid base map file. Please verify vehicle and vendor of map file
5:1208

?

Stratified S-OTS maps for the JBR Power Path Intakes
 

Is this for the free sots maps? THis just means there is a mismatch between your vehicle market and year and the map. If you are trying to load these in atr you won't be able to because they are locked down maps.

Ahh I see that makes sense. I wanted to look at some of the data on your maps.

Makes sense.

Is there any issue with running the stage 2 91 map with both cats intact? I have internals, but I'm in California so my only option is gutting my midpipe.. which I do not have time to do for a while.

Yes, Noob. ;)

You should lose at least 1 cat if you want to run a Stage 2 map.

Just read the entire thread, and it wasn't asked. Can the stock MAF/airbox be used with the S-OTS tune with the JBR intake elbow and TIH?

It's my understanding both the JBR and stock MAF are 68mm.

Nope... If it can't be used on different intakes, it can't be used on stock air box

It can't be used on different intakes due to a different MAF diameter; JBR is 68mm. Stock is also 68mm. Assume the correct TIH and intake elbow are used (JBR), can the S-OTS be run safely?

It's been said before, can't even use this on a COBB/corksport/whatever else other "stock sized" intake is available...

It's been said it can't be run without a JBR intake bc of MAF diameter. Cobb and Corksport are 70mm and 66mm respectively, not the stock diameter.

The MAF calibration for the JBR intake is indeed different from the OEM MAF calibration. So this will throw off the load calculations in the ECU.

I just loaded these maps up yesterday and have been driving around on them. They feel wonderful, but I've been having weird large LTFT problems. The map started out with good trims, but got worse as I drove it along. I just double-checked everything and all the hoses on the intake seem tight, does anyone have any ideas or do I just need to give it more time? I've driven about 80 miles or so.

What intake do you have on the car?

Hi Mike,
Right now I have the jbr intake and the stock TIP

Check to make sure the o-ring on the MAF sensor isn't broken or torn. +10 isn't ideal, but it isn't going to hurt anything either.

Sent while Stratified.

I just checked the maf, the o-ring is good, it sits in there nice and snug and it's tightened down pretty good. I had an issue originally where one of the hoses to the BPV got crimped and it would actuate at 9 psi, but I fixed that and reflashed the map to make sure it wouldn't affect anything, so it shouldn't be that right?
I had logs up there, but if you think it's fine LTFTing along at like +8 (idle) to +11 (throttle) I won't worry about it.

Like I said, it isn't ideal, but also not a big deal. Just ensure no leaks pre-compressor. If you are certain of that, I wouldn't worry about the trims.

Just to confirm, These maps do not have the EGR delete code disabled? Right now im running the S-OTS stage 1 91oct and would like to delete the EGR valve.

This is correct for the free JBR maps. Our flash tunes you can spec to have any codes disabled.

Since these maps are locked is it still possible to disable SWAS and set launch control?

Disable SWAS...no.

Setting LC and FFS will depend on if the OTS maps have been updated to the later ATR version and you AP is on the later firmware. Cobb no longer provides a website to adjust LC and FFS on locked maps but instead made it part of the flashing process on your AP.....but if the OTS file is too old, it will not be compatible and will only flash as a normal file with no LC or FFS.

It's too bad I can't use this with my intake.. I had loaded the map just to see how it felt and it felt absolutely amazing. My FP and knock was pretty close to perfect. I'm going to assume i have to go the custom route in other to be able to get map similar to this that will work best for my vehicle?

You can get one of our Flash tunes for as little as $50 which will account for all of your modifications, CELs and SWAS preferences.

Sent while Stratified.

@Lex; I'm looking to optimize my current set-up. I've been on the fence with the CS turbo and thinking about just biting the bullet and putting the new CS turbo on and having it tuned. However, from what I've seen thus far, the turbo torque curve is quite linear with the HP curve. I like the sudden burst of torque with the K04 and love the E85 Flash Tune. I would like some input on what I can do next. I'm leaning towards a JBR 3" or 3.5" WP intake and a pnp intake manifold and custom tune with my mods. If I were to add a catless downpipe to the mix, is it possible/safe to run 25psi spike and taper to 20 psi at redline on the k04. I know it would really be pushing it beyond it's design, but can it be done? I'm just looking for a little advice on which direction to go for the next 25hp.

All very good questions. Take a WOT datalog of the current map and setup. Send it along with your power goals and complete mod list and budget to feedback at stratifiedauto.com

From there one of us will be able to give you a direction quite clearly based on the datalog and information.

i see everyone on here talking intakes and such on stage 1, i just got my genpu ms3 about 6 weeks ago and my AP will be here wednesday. Can i safely flash the S-OTS stage 1 map on a bone stock vehicle? after reading about cobbs maps its safe to say ill stay away from those to avoid a little ZZB possibility.

Can someone recommend good tires for a mazdacx7.

Need a JBR intake for this tune. There are also OTS tunes which Stratified sells on their website where you can put in your vehicle configuration and then the cost to update them I believe is lower than a brand new one. I'd suggest that route, or buying a JBR intake soon and using the provided S-OTS tune.

will the s-ots maps work with the jbr full 3" intake or are they specific to just the power path sram?

JBR intake
 

Installing anything larger than stock sized intake (i.e. 3" or bigger) will not work with the S-OTS. You will get a lot of stuttering as the ECU mis-calculates the intake (thinking it is a stock intake but actually pulling in more air with a 3" or larger intake)
The S-OTS maps are for the JBR short ram intakes (stage 1 or 2) or the cold air intake (stage 3).
Note that Stratified calls the stages differently - stage 1 = JBR intake + stock HPFP; stage 2 = JBR intake + upgraded HPFP
see Stratified MazdaSpeed / Mazda MPS Off The Shelf (S-OTS) Maps [Stratified Mazda S-OTS Maps] - It's Free! : Stratified Automotive Controls

You definitely don't want to run a larger intake on the free SOTS+ tunes because the car will run lean. We do have flash tunes that we cater to any intake or modification combination you have (short of a bigger turbo)

Stratified MazdaSpeed / Mazda MPS Flash Tune [Stratified Mazda Flash Tune] - $50.00USD : Stratified Automotive Controls

Is there a power increase range I can expect with this S-OTS map?
I have the Powerpath stage 2 and HPFP internals coming in this week and am just curious to see what other people are getting. I'm not expecting crazy gains, just mainly curious.

The tune should offer an improvement in performance as well as drivability.

I would definitely recommend checking out the Flash tune on Stratified's website. $50 very well spent and you will see a power increase for sure.

Update:
I've pulled 4 datalogs and all readings are within their safe ranges and only differ by fractions of a value. As for STFT and LTFT, I've had absolutely no issues and my car is very happy with this new tune/mod set-up! :sgrin:

If i'm seeing high LTFT (14.06% under heavy throttle) on the Stratified OTS and I purchase a Flash Tune....would my trims be closer to 0? I ask because my trims on the mentioned tune - despite it being tailored for the JBR intake installed - are farther from 0 than what I experienced when I was on the COBB Intake + COBB Stg 1+ tune.

I checked for leaks and reinstalled the intake multiple times but no luck. Even flashed the COBB tune with the JBR hardware and got LTFTs within +/- 5%. I like the way the Stratified tune feels and don't mind paying for a flash tune...but would it improve my trims? From the attached logs despite high LTFTs I'm still seeing good AFRs and fuel pressure at max boost stays above 1600 PSI at all times.