If in VTA is should only be on when the BPV is being controlled by the GA. So at idle/low load it'll be on. But, if I understand it correctly, shouldn't be on at WOT unless you are overboosting. But maybe I am out to lunch. @Lex

EDIT: reading fail on my part....as you were.

That was probably my bad, but I have been begging for one from @Lex for quite some time ;).

I have the Guardian Angel Installed but I had some issues using the "Add a Fuse" (since the package said it was only good for 10 amps). The Genpu is littered with 15+ Amp fuses and only has 4 fuses that are 10 amps or less. I had it plugged into the 7.5 amp "Illumination" fuse but I just discovered that it is always on. I just plugged it in to the 10 amp "Eng+B" fuse and it only seems to be powered when the engine is running.

The Guardian Angel unit is a little bigger than I had imagined so keeping it out of sight (for the sleeperhatch/stock look) will prove to be difficult. At the moment I have it double sided taped to the top of the engine bay fuse box. I would like to relocate it below the CS SRI air filter, perhaps on what I think is the crash bar (the support beam that goes front to back). That cheap SOB, @rfinkle2 has made a bracket that mounts nicely to where the intake hose from the stock airbox comes out of. :)

The stock Vacuum lines are twice as thick as the ones I ended using so I may have to make a trip to the auto parts store soon.

As far as the main purpose of the Guardian Angel is concerned, it works perfectly. I turned the tuning pot in between the 10 and 25 marks and I hit what sounded like fuel cut at 17.5 lbs. The car made noises but I was able to keep my foot on the accelerator and the car didn't buck or lurch. I raised the tuning pot a little more and the same thing happened again at 21.5 lbs. I turned it up a little higher and I am hoping that should be good to go. Please correct me if I am wrong.

I also installed the Turbosmart Dualport BOV. I am guessing that I am in 50/50 hybrid mode since I am utilizing the recirc hose. I had it set 2 turns from hardest but the blow off noise was very quick and quiet. I turned it down to 3 turns from the hardest setting and it sounds much better. I am not sure if that is how it is supposed to be. Am I supposed to block off the recirc tube if I am in VTA mode or can I just keep lowering the spring tension?

Don't mind the rambling from this noob. I have been reading @fortressofcomfort posts too much as of late.

http://i49.tinypic.com/2wdx4e9.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/9ld654.jpg

You definitely need to plug the recirc tube on the intake.

yes 100 percent on that! i have been running vta for a while without and you most certainly need it plugged or you will be sucking in un filtered air and a lot of it :)

Thanks for the review. Let me shed some light on this. The LED is tied directly to the control system for the valve. When the unit was failsafe only, this was important since I wanted the user to know that everything was functioning and they were protected. This is important as far as safety is concerned.

When the VTA feature was enabled, the unit is being actuated at other times. Since the LED is a final check for operation it will come on. I know it's a little annoying and I really have to evaluate if I want to change this because I still want the user to have as much safety as possible.

I find that placing the LED out of direct sight (such as in one of the lower dash panels) or dabbing on a bit of tinting paint on it will help.

The VTA feature is tuned to improve shifts and idle conditions with a variety of BPVs. Some very mild flutter means the BPV/BOV is a little tight but a little flutter is not going to harm the turbo. The only other valve you can run VTA without the GA (the HKS) also flutters a bit.

You will need to plug the recirc hose if you're fully removing it.
Also the unit draws under 1A of current so you don't need a huge fuse for it. A 5A fuse is more than sufficient. For your boost levels I wouldn't set it above 25 psi. At around 25 psi is a good place. You want it 1-2 psi above the max that you're running.

The next order is on the way and this one should last a lot longer.

Well I am running it in what I believe to be is 50/50 hybrid mode (where it will vent about half to the atmosphere and half gets recirculated back into the system). Basically it is hooked up as if it were in recirc mode.

If I just left the recirc tube unplugged, I would not be able to get very far because the car will idle like shit and probably cut out on me within 100 feet.

If I left it in 50/50 hybrid mode, should I turn the VTA option off?

You can try both settings and see how you like the response of the car with either. With the VTA feature on you can open up the atmosphere part of the BPV more.

Noticed my afr's at idle where sitting in the 16's. Not long after that P2177 followed. I'm sure you know what that code is.

But the lite is very annoying. For instance, on the highway with the cc on its on, then off, then on, then off, etc..... very annoying.

For me, seeing it blink twice when its turned on is enough to differentiate rather or not VTA mode is engaged. Being on all the time is frustrating. Because its constantly on or off actually throws me off when its on and doing its job while over boosting because my mind has basically ignored the light otherwise. I pretty much went by feel for fine tuning because The light is always doing something. And because of this fact, i intend to bury the lite under the dash somewhere. So any "safety" having the lite on all the time was providing, is out the window.

I feel i may not be the only one that feels this way about the lite.

Thanks for the feedback on the light. I will keep this in mind.

As for your lean at idle, could it be that you calibrated your MAF with your BPV in VTA mode before and now that it's closing your MAF cal is off?

Also check that you haven't created a vacuum leak on the manifold when installing using the hoses when installing the unit.

Good idea. It could be either of those. I used hose i had lying around just to get it up and running. i plan to redo it with new hose. Also, my fuel trims could be way off.

You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means.



Lite = Bud Lite is a lighter version of a Bud.
Light(3) = Light source such as LEDs.




Lex, when do you think the next shipment will be in stock?

Target is before the end of this month. I will post in here once they come in.

Ha, your right. Thats funny though because I manage a beer distributor and i right out lots of orders for bars and such. So, guess my brain only know one way to spell light now.

For what its worth, a lot of beer manf. spell they're lite beer light.

hahahahah
OMG, every teacher in my family felt the disturbance in the force from that post

Here I thought California schools were bad, eh?

Back on Topic. I am goint to try lightening the tension by a half a turn on the Turbosmart Dualport in Hybrid Mode. At what point should I stop?

When the screw comes out.

tapatatapa... DROID 2 Global... etc etc

LOL, the entire housing turns. :chairshot:

WHat I meant is what should I look for so that I know how far I can loosen the spring tension while in 50/50 hybrid mode. I will try actual VTA testing as soon as I can get a plug for the recirc hose.

You can't loosen the spring tension in TS valves. You have to replace it with a softer spring if need be.

Lol at their corny little commercial below. If that's the valve you have - run it in "Super Sonic" mode with both trumpets on there with the GA in VTA mode.

Product | Dual Port | Turbosmart USA

@Lex, it appears that on the Dual port that I can adjust the tension by turning the housing.

Thanks for the link. I had no idea the trumpets and the recirc adapter were threaded. I wonder if I was supposed to have 2 trumpets in my Box.

I think I will just go with 1 trumpet aimed towards me and I will just plug the other end. :)

@Lex

I check all my connections and they're good. i flashed back the map i was using before because i just flashed a map i made maf changes to. And it seems i have a serious lean condition all the time. here's some logs.

Log 4 is a steady state cruise.
Log 5 is mild acceleration 1st-3rd.
Log 6 is mild uphill climb.
Log 7 is random driving.
Log 8 is idle.

There's no LTFT's because i just flashed the map. But these numbers mimicked those of the previous map.

Log 3 is the one that freaked me out the most. wot and lean afr's.

I need to inspect the car further for a possible leak somewhere. Something is amiss. It can't be the Gaurdian angel. And i can't imagine it requires tuning.

It looks like the turbo is sucking in unmetered air. If you had a boost leak on a charged pipe you'd be running rich under boost. Check your TIP and intake up to the turbo.

Thanks lex. Gonna give it a thorough go over tomorrow. Gotta be something i'm missing. I'm basically just gonna redo the whole thing.

So i pulled the intake off to check the plug i used in the recirc hole to find it had fallen out, LOL! Well, thats actually not funny but what is, is that it took me that long to look there. But i had a clamp on it real tight so i'm befuddled as to how the thing even made it out.

So i re did it and clamped it down REAL hard....again. so far everything is good.

Sure does work a lot better when there's not a giant hole in the intake. Idle is good and AFR's are acting as they should.

The light is still annoying. I wish it worked as it does when VTA mode in not engaged and just came on when protecting and flashed upon start up.

There's still some richness in between shifts. But this was expected as the GA doesn't change the fact that metered air is lost. But it does make a huge difference When running VTA. The car is far more driveable. I've had only one little pop for the tail pipe so far. I can't wait to put a dual port valve on this thing. I think the GA's VTA function coupled with some of the blown or air being recirulated may be the best case scenario.

With the FMIC i have to work the WGDC's a little harder to hit my boost targets and its nice not having to worry about hitting the brick wall (fuel cut) if i over do it.

Glad the fix was easy! If it's a plastic plug don't clamp it too hard because you may deform it and actually squeeze it out from the hose. Also glad you're enjoying the VTA feature. The OEM valve was actually the toughest to tune since it's got a 2 chamber design and it is very fast acting.

I just ended up using a 1/2" threaded pvc fitting and cap. Will work until my 3" HTP recirc-less TIP comes in.

Sent telepathetically to my Razr Maxx

I think that may have been what happened. I had the clamp to far back and it squeezed it out once it got hot. Its solid now though.

I actually re did everything again today. got all new hose's and some metal. Made a bracket to mount it too. Looks good.

Questions:

1. Is there any need to worry about using to much hose? Is there a benefit to the hose's being shorter?

2. I have it screwed to a metal bracket which is bolted to the frame. Is there any issue's of grounding i should be concerned with? Need i place rubber grommets between the GA and the bracket?

How did you run your led through the dash?

Sent telepathetically to my Razr Maxx

1. No need to really worry about hose length. Just be sensible and make it kink free and tidy. Make sure it fits leak free and is clamped as needed.

2. No need to worry about rubber grommets etc. Just make sure the power and ground harness connections are solid.

This. Or you will run rich as fuck and bog and backfire. Ask how I know lol

Sent telepathetically to my Razr Maxx

You experienced how it is to run VTA without the GA :)

If the GA is not on, the BPV will act as though the GA is not there at all. If the LED is not coming on, at startup (and in vacuum if VTA is enabled) the GA is not on/working.

Well then let me thank you for coming up with this. The Forge is so much more responsive the throttle is open or closed, no transition. Also the overboost protection is awesome, was dialing it in and its a nice cushion when you go over, not a head snapping jerk.

I think I have it dialed in now and I sent you some logs with it and the Cobb FMIC to see if we need a tweak.

No, Thank you sir!

I am under a pile of logs :) But I promise I will get to yours shortly!

Also for those guys/gals that bought and installed the GA, I would REALLY appreciate it if you wrote a short review on my site:

Login : Stratified Automotive Controls

New build batch is under way!

BTW, for those that write a review, I will drop one of these decals in the mail for you!

http://www.stratifiedauto.com/images...%203-W1280.jpg

Left a little review for ya lex.

Best luck to you and company.

Thank you sir for the kind words and I will be dropping the decal in the mail soon.

Through the hood release cable grommet

Thanks!

Sent telepathetically to my Razr Maxx

Hate to ask, but there's no way we can update these things ourselves?

I've drilled out the holes on my GA to accomodate some thick bolts i had laying around to mount to the side of my fusebox. That and i really don't want to remove it. it's doing a good job where it's at :)

Unfortunately no ... I will need to do this ... sorry :( You can always just put a barb on the hose and removing the unit and have it sent to me.

Too bad there isn't a core exchange program due to the limited amount. Maybe once these are in production that might be a possibility. Probably an extra charge since the unit that is coming is in better shape than the one being swapped.

Except for the LED light issue (which isn't a problem for me since I haven't routed it through the firewall yet) I haven't had any issues with the VTA software thus far. My Turbosmart and Forge V1 sound and act the same as if they were in recirc mode. If I had a complaint, it would be that. I was hoping for more noise. :(

@Lex if we were to log our shifts, what would we be looking for to see if everything is working properly? How should the logs be taken?