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-   -   Spark Plug Database - Colder Than Stock ( Stage 1&2 ) (http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f629/spark-plug-database-colder-than-stock-stage-125106/)

Haltech 05-19-2008 04:14 PM

Spark Plug Database - Colder Than Stock ( Stage 1&2 )
 
This is a compiled database for spark plugs who's heat range is 1 and 2 stages colder than stock. Please add your plugs and we will update this thread.

Mazdaspeed Forums Spark Plug Index Database

Gap size - 0.26 - 0.32 | Preferred gap is between 0.26 to 0.28

Type and Specs on DISI 2.3l Spark Plugs: 14mm; 5/8 hex; 25mm reach; projected tip; resistor plug

Heat Range Conversion Chart
Code:


HKS 25 30 35 40 45 50 52.5 55
DENSO 16 20 22 24 27 31 32 34
NGK 5 6 7 8 9 10 10.5 11

Spark Plug Manf & Part Numbers
  • Denso Iridium
  • itv-20 - Stock heat range
  • itv-22 - 1 stage colder heat range
  • itv-24 - 2 stage colder heat range
  • itv-27 - 3.5 stage colder heat range
  • HKS
  • 50003-M35LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 7 $22.97ea. - 1 Stage Colder Heat Range
  • 50003-M40LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 8 $22.97ea. - 2 Stage Colder Heat Range
  • NGK IX Iridium
  • NGK LTR7IX-11 (6510) - 1 Stage Colder Heat Range
  • NGK ILTR6A-8G (3787) - Stock Heat Range


  • Torque Master Spark Plugs
  • SVTP8BR Stock Heat Range
  • SVTP7YR 1 Stage Colder Heat Range
  • Autolite Iridium
  • Autolite Iridiums XP5364 - Stock Heatrange
  • Autolite Iridiums XP5263 - 1 Step Colder

NGK Copper Plugs

LZTR4A-11 (5306)
LZTR5A-13 (4306)
BKR7E

whoosh@Realtune 05-20-2008 04:58 AM

HKS has plugs available for the MS3/MS6 as well
I actaully have a set of the heat range 7 (1 step colder)

from the HKS-USA site:
50003-M35LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 7 $22.97ea.

50003-M40LF *Mazda MZR Engine* ; Mazda 3, Mazda 6, MX-5 '06 8 $22.97ea.


BTW, I've also been running the NGK 6510's gapped @ .32 for almost a year now and they are great

Haltech 05-20-2008 05:26 AM

Thanks very much Whoosh!

speedster 3 10-04-2008 01:48 PM

so what would the best spark plugs be for just having TBE, CAI, and BOV?

phailerider 10-04-2008 01:53 PM

what are the ngks supposed to be gapped at stock... anybody know?

Laloosh 10-04-2008 02:03 PM

stock they come at something stupid like 42

phailerider 10-04-2008 02:31 PM

i dont think the ones on my car were ever gapped. ken just told me it isnt necessary unless the car doesnt run right...lol we'll see.

Speedy3 10-18-2008 08:04 PM

What is the torque setting for spark plugs?

Haltech 10-18-2008 08:06 PM

Twist in until it stops by hand using the extension of the ratchet.. than one 1/4 inch turn to secure. Be sure to use a dab of anti seize on the threads and a dab of di-electric grease on the top of the plug where the coil connects to.

bioevolve 10-26-2008 04:19 PM

Here is a good spark plug reading link. Someone rip the info from there and sticky it! Well for non-iridium types, but you kinda get the idea.

Spark Plugs

Phantom 11-18-2008 06:29 PM

I am guessing the .30 to .32 gapping is in mm?

ms6acton 11-22-2008 09:10 AM

i kno nothing about gap and what not, what plug would u guys reccommend just to make the motor run better? no mods yet

ptperformance 12-07-2008 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ms6acton (Post 111070)
i kno nothing about gap and what not, what plug would u guys reccommend just to make the motor run better? no mods yet

Start at .038 and work your way down from there. We have found that on stock gap (.042) the NGK's seem to work very well with stock boosted applications. If you turn up the boost your going to want to knock that gap down a little bit. We have ran them as high as .038 at 21 psi on the stock turbo. I have yet to have blow out problems with the one range colder plugs.

ptperformance 12-07-2008 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phantom (Post 109186)
I am guessing the .30 to .32 gapping is in mm?

No, it should be .032 in inches.

zoom-zoomhatch 02-02-2009 11:00 PM

Has anyone tried just running a plain ole copper plug?

Haltech 02-03-2009 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zoom-zoomhatch (Post 152067)
Has anyone tried just running a plain ole copper plug?

No one has sourced a copper plug compatible with these COPs yet.

Monstar 02-13-2009 12:59 PM

I just wanted to Throw this out there. I thew in a set of NGK 5610s last night and found that the stock plugs in my car (fomoco) were gapped at .030!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Started the ngks at .038. I wondered what the deal was. I think stock was supposed to be around 40-42???? The car was only touched by mazda before I got it at 30k miles, its around 44k now. Input?????
It smoothed it out alot, still getting flames out the back between shifts though sometimes.... :evil:

phillyb 02-21-2009 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monstar (Post 158276)
I just wanted to Throw this out there. I thew in a set of NGK 5610s last night and found that the stock plugs in my car (fomoco) were gapped at .030!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Started the ngks at .038. I wondered what the deal was. I think stock was supposed to be around 40-42???? The car was only touched by mazda before I got it at 30k miles, its around 44k now. Input?????
It smoothed it out alot, still getting flames out the back between shifts though sometimes.... :evil:

did you read anything in the first post?

Dash08 05-01-2009 08:38 AM

Should I switch to step colder plugs? What's the advantage?
How often should I be swapping plugs?
10,500 on the odometer.

Monkey_3 05-20-2009 11:45 PM

so...any advantages?

jmhinkle 05-21-2009 12:57 AM

I personally think it would be useful to post the gap issues with some plugs. For example, both the stock heat range Denso and one step colder NGK are both factory gapped at ~.045. That isn't correct for our motor and requires a funky bend on the ground electrode. They work, but are not ideal. Denso 1 and 2 step colder are the proper gap.

djrivera 05-28-2009 12:04 AM

What is the advantage to using +1 +2 step colder plugs?

straydoginc 06-05-2009 07:44 AM

I am looking at buying some plugs. Ditto on the "What are the pros for getting a +1 +2 plug set?"

phillyb 06-05-2009 10:42 AM

my understanding is as follows: good for more extensive mods.
and they will also help keep knock at bay

jlocurto 06-25-2009 01:56 PM

does anyone know the part number for the denso itv 22's trying to get them at an advanced auto parts near my house and theyre retarded and cant find it by "itv 22" they need a part number

ToledoSpeed3 06-25-2009 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlocurto (Post 254797)
does anyone know the part number for the denso itv 22's trying to get them at an advanced auto parts near my house and theyre retarded and cant find it by "itv 22" they need a part number

5340

Nitr0EngiE 09-12-2009 04:46 AM

I have repeated issues with colder plugs, I fry then in like 2k miles. the arm over electrode looks glazed white like ceramic and i get misfire trouble codes. this happened with Densso itv 22 and 24 and the NGKs, So i am gonna go back to stock plugs ! fuck this bs.

I may consider trying itv 20 stock heat and see if they hold up. its happening more often ive got the maf tuned to about 12-12.5 A/F

I wanted to ask can anyone explain why i am having plug issues .... they come out looking like the car runs lean even before I made air/fuel higher. and we all know the car runs rich.

2007speed3 09-12-2009 08:29 AM

^ thats a strange issue, i am running the denso 2 step colder and the only issie i have after 8k miles is a rough idle sometimes.

Are they gapped correctly?

atomic_rice 09-12-2009 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE (Post 312069)
I have repeated issues with colder plugs, I fry then in like 2k miles. the arm over electrode looks glazed white like ceramic and i get misfire trouble codes. this happened with Densso itv 22 and 24 and the NGKs, So i am gonna go back to stock plugs ! fuck this bs.

I may consider trying itv 20 stock heat and see if they hold up. its happening more often ive got the maf tuned to about 12-12.5 A/F

I wanted to ask can anyone explain why i am having plug issues .... they come out looking like the car runs lean even before I made air/fuel higher. and we all know the car runs rich.

im having the same issue. I've gone through 2 sets of ITV22s, getting misfire codes in different cylinders. I've changed the coil packs around, so i know its not the problem. Im thinking of goin back to stock as well. :aargh4: and yes i've checked the gap multiple times.

on the good side, i can get my TMIC off in 5 mins flat now cause i've had to change my plugs so many dang times.

DCLXVI 09-12-2009 09:52 AM

the ITV22s come gapped at .32 i thought, and i just spoke to cobb and they said to gap to .28 if you have the AP. is prefered gap what people who have the AP are running? or is that for stock ECU in which case the ITV22s come ready.

Nitr0EngiE 09-13-2009 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCLXVI (Post 312158)
the ITV22s come gapped at .32 i thought, and i just spoke to cobb and they said to gap to .28 if you have the AP. is prefered gap what people who have the AP are running? or is that for stock ECU in which case the ITV22s come ready.

the only reason cobb says that is for increased Boost im told .28 is better. but on my car i cant get past like 16 psi no matter what i set it to in SB, our turbos blow ass.

And i had a coil go bad on my half mile from my house i limped(ran off 3 cyl, car shook really bad barely accelerated.) to mazda fully bolted with fmic and they replaced ignition coil. Dashhawk said misfire cyl 1 i changed 4 plugs still same thing, i swap coil from 1 to 2 and the error switched from 1 to 2. Coil is bad. And earlier same day i had cyl 4 misfiring, i replaced plug and it went away and it only misfired under boost 10 psi or more, this is getting annoying !

i think this colder plug bull shit is just an excuse for people who cant tune out knock or something, people with stock plugs have no issues at all. i ordered 4 stock plugs at a rediculous 15 ea. mazda dont even stock coil nor plugs because theyve never seen any go bad they said ! parts made me pre pay for plugs because they are special order, not stocked.

my friend has stock plugs cpe tbe and cpe cai and he dynoed more power then me ...... with stock intercooler. And i have everything. so wtf ? he got 272 i got 265, then they sprayed our intercoolers with NOS and i got 281 he got 285. My intercooler made the difference here.

camdensms6 10-19-2009 06:57 PM

Glad ive read this thread, Ive been asking this ? for some time now.

TongMan 10-22-2009 08:55 AM

Someone confirm these are the correct plugs for the mazdaspeed3:

4 DENSO IRIDIUM Power Spark Plugs ITV22 5340 - Chevy:eBay Motors (item 270389179968 end time Nov-07-09 11:13:06 PST)

bioevolve 10-22-2009 09:07 AM

YES, ITV22 are the correct ones.

TongMan 10-22-2009 03:36 PM

Thanks. I will be ordering a set.

curtspeed6 02-08-2010 07:12 PM

what have you guys found to be the most reliable aftermarket plugs, it seems to me that these colder ones arnt lasting as long.

shpankey 02-19-2010 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE (Post 312069)
I have repeated issues with colder plugs, I fry then in like 2k miles. the arm over electrode looks glazed white like ceramic and i get misfire trouble codes. this happened with Densso itv 22 and 24 and the NGKs, So i am gonna go back to stock plugs ! fuck this bs.

Ditto. Having same issue. ITV22s gapped at .30 and already fouling w/ less than 2k on them.

shpankey 03-01-2010 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speedy3 (Post 93786)
What is the torque setting for spark plugs?

For aluminum heads I always use 13 ft lbs.

Btw... my stock, from the factory plugs (09 MS3) were at .28 gap. From the factory. I checked them all w/ feeler guages. All 4 were at .28 perfectly.

shpankey 03-11-2010 02:30 PM

Sorry for the multiple post. It's in just 1 thread now. Thanks phillyb, apologies.

phillyb 03-11-2010 02:32 PM

mhmm...my understanding of ngks is that we use 6510 for 1 step colder. not that part number.

hnda etr 03-11-2010 02:56 PM

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ge-1-2-a-5692/

shpankey 03-11-2010 03:19 PM

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by phillyb (Post 164056)
did you read anything in the first post?

I know this was to him. But I'm kind of lost on this whole issue.

I checked my stockers (FoMoCo) and they were dead on at .028 gap from the factory. So I'm guessing I am in one measurement and others are using the other?

phillyb 03-11-2010 03:31 PM

nah, you're fine.
stock gap is recommended to be within .028-.032
ngk 6510's come pregapped at like .042 or some shit like that so they need to be regapped to be in spec.
i think that guy was also confused about his stock plugs.

shpankey 03-11-2010 03:51 PM

Cool thanks. I found the stock heat range part number. Heat range 6. NGK 3787 just in case anyone needs those too. 1 step colder is Heat range 7, but I know most of you already knew that. My only question is, do I need 1 step colder? I tried the Denso's 1 step colder and they fouled out quickly. I don't think I've added over 75 chp yet (?).

phillyb 03-11-2010 03:58 PM

idk man. there are people who will say that when you raise boost, you should go one step colder.
there are people that go one step colder with an intake and upgraded ic i think.
so i'm really not too sure.
i've been running step colder plugs for a while.
but idk how "necessary" they are.

c.a.t.a.p 04-12-2010 10:51 PM

that last post helped me out alot thanks

18psiWhiteMS3 05-09-2010 07:12 AM

Ok, at what point do you need 2 step colder plugs???

spnkr21 05-09-2010 07:25 AM

Re: Spark Plug Database - Colder Than Stock ( Stage 1&2 )
 
Good question. I should prolly replace my spark plugs soon.

Frequentflyer 06-22-2010 04:00 PM

Update to this thread.

Autolite makes Iridium plugs now. Plug numbers are XP5364 (Heat Range 4 - stock heat range) and XP5263 (Heat Range 3 - 1 step colder). I know most will turn their nose up to Autolite compared to NGK's and Denso's, but I don't think they're a bad plug. They're $6.49 each at Autozone and I just picked up a set to try out. They are supposedly gapped at .051. I'll have to confirm this, but if so, you'll have to tighten them up a bit. From what I can see, they look like they can be tightened up without bending them too much since they almost have a negative bend to them.

EDIT: The good thing about these is that it seems most Autozones and Advance Auto Parts stock them regularly whereas the NGK's and Denso's are usually special order through these places and cost more unless you get them online. You may want to spend a few bucks more per plug to get the NGK's or Denso's, but if you're in a pinch, run to Autozone and pick a set of these up. Besides, Autolite is an official NASCAR sponsor buddy.... yeeehaaw.

EDIT #2: I've been running these plugs for a few thousand miles now and the car runs just fine on them. I'll pull them out in a month or two and see how they look.

justint5387 12-27-2010 10:17 AM

Why does the Denso plugs foul up so easily? Are the NGK for durable?

qwerty4550 01-30-2011 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frequentflyer (Post 558047)
Update to this thread.

Autolite makes Iridium plugs now. Plug numbers are XP5364 (Heat Range 4 - stock heat range) and XP5263 (Heat Range 3 - 1 step colder). I know most will turn their nose up to Autolite compared to NGK's and Denso's, but I don't think they're a bad plug. They're $6.49 each at Autozone and I just picked up a set to try out. They are supposedly gapped at .051. I'll have to confirm this, but if so, you'll have to tighten them up a bit. From what I can see, they look like they can be tightened up without bending them too much since they almost have a negative bend to them.

EDIT: The good thing about these is that it seems most Autozones and Advance Auto Parts stock them regularly whereas the NGK's and Denso's are usually special order through these places and cost more unless you get them online. You may want to spend a few bucks more per plug to get the NGK's or Denso's, but if you're in a pinch, run to Autozone and pick a set of these up. Besides, Autolite is an official NASCAR sponsor buddy.... yeeehaaw.

EDIT #2: I've been running these plugs for a few thousand miles now and the car runs just fine on them. I'll pull them out in a month or two and see how they look.


Have you pulled them to see how they look? I have had Denso ITV22's in for 15k miles now and need to pull them and see how they look.

Frequentflyer 01-30-2011 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qwerty4550 (Post 710402)
Have you pulled them to see how they look? I have had Denso ITV22's in for 15k miles now and need to pull them and see how they look.

Nope. I ordered a Corksport topmount intercooler, so when I get it in March, I'll probably pull the plugs. They're working fine with no misfires running 19 psi, so if it's not broken, I don't fix it. I was kinda pissed a few weeks ago when I put a new downpipe in and had the TMIC pulled off, but forgot to pull the plugs to look at the them while I had it off.

Jsn_Rob 01-31-2011 04:29 PM

Getting ready to change my spark plugs in the next couple of days. I recall reading that it might be neccesary to stretch the coil from the wire that connects to the spark plug. hHas any else ever heard of this?

jmhinkle 01-31-2011 04:37 PM

Very old info, but stretching the springs a little on both ends helps with some peoples problems. Stretching the middle doesn't do anything because the spring holder is shaped for it and compresses it back.

Jsn_Rob 01-31-2011 04:44 PM

Thanks jmhinkle.

Texas Speed Demon Fag 02-10-2011 09:08 PM

I got the 6510's...some shops say .22, some .28 for gap. My gapper shows stockers at a gap of .24-.25...so which is it? I assume .28 will be fine...I have the auto gapper that shops use so it wont break the electrode or the tip...and also creates a perfect level tip to electrode which is supposed to prevent hot spots in the piston area when firing...any help appreciated.

Texas Speed Demon Fag 02-10-2011 09:48 PM

Keeping stock taking 6510's back, after reading only use if making over 100HP more than stock...no need for me...not gonna risk it.

halfdead 02-11-2011 07:53 AM

So from what I've read and also talked to a lot of mechanics, you should try to keep your plugs as cold as possible without them fouling out, the plugs clean themselves with heat, (like self cleaning ovens, or propane grills) now going too hot on a plug will cause the fuel/air to detonate premature, causing knock and power loss, even at extreme sometimes melt. higher pressure(boost) or compression lowers the detonation point of the fuel/air. so if you dont mind changing plugs, go cold, then step it up a heat range till you find the plug best for YOUR car.

jmhinkle 02-11-2011 07:39 PM

It never hurts to go 1 step colder from factory even with a stock car. Never go hotter.

speed3willie 02-15-2011 11:08 PM

just ordered my spark plus got them for 7.89 a plug got the ngk 6510 can't wait to install these..

2008MS3H 06-02-2011 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frequentflyer (Post 710608)
Nope. I ordered a Corksport topmount intercooler, so when I get it in March, I'll probably pull the plugs. They're working fine with no misfires running 19 psi, so if it's not broken, I don't fix it. I was kinda pissed a few weeks ago when I put a new downpipe in and had the TMIC pulled off, but forgot to pull the plugs to look at the them while I had it off.

i know this is an older thread but i am curious if you ever pulled the plugs and what they looked like? what mileage did you pull them.....if you remember.
also, what did you end up gapping them at?

let me know

burn813 06-02-2011 09:21 PM

Bump

jmhinkle 06-02-2011 09:27 PM

I can tell you from personal experience that the Autolite plugs have to bent a lot and not just your regular bending. The are gapped HUGE! You actually need to carefully pull the groundstrap back and then compress it down so the angle is decent. Make sure those strange dots they have on the ground strap line up with the electrode as well. If you are in a bind which a local guy definitely was, they will do ok, but they really aren't much cheaper than a plug that works properly if you don't need them immediately.

2008MS3H 06-03-2011 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmhinkle (Post 878592)
I can tell you from personal experience that the Autolite plugs have to bent a lot and not just your regular bending. The are gapped HUGE! You actually need to carefully pull the groundstrap back and then compress it down so the angle is decent. Make sure those strange dots they have on the ground strap line up with the electrode as well. If you are in a bind which a local guy definitely was, they will do ok, but they really aren't much cheaper than a plug that works properly if you don't need them immediately.

ok thanks for the advice.
i took a look online and i think they are gapped at .051 which really threw me off. i might just go with the ngk's since that seems to be standard for most people here. i dont know how comfortable i feel having to bend a plug that much - doesn't seem natural.

Frequentflyer 11-04-2011 03:26 PM

I've been running the Autolite plugs for over 30k miles with no issues. Of course, when I replace them, I'll probably go with the Denso's again.

Spectrum24x 05-07-2012 07:04 PM

Sorry to revive the dead but what's the best practice for ungapping the plugs? I just got NGK 6510 and they are set around .040 I was going to set them at .031 but I can't get the metal to bend down.. I'm afraid to give it to much an breaking it

theurgy 05-07-2012 09:08 PM

Just lightly tap it against a table.

jmhinkle 05-07-2012 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spectrum24x (Post 1402685)
Sorry to revive the dead but what's the best practice for ungapping the plugs? I just got NGK 6510 and they are set around .040 I was going to set them at .031 but I can't get the metal to bend down.. I'm afraid to give it to much an breaking it

That would not be ungapping, that would be gapping. You need to aim for .028 anyway. Use a bench vise for the most precise compression, or carefully push them against soft wood. Never tap them against anything. You would be risking cracking either ceramic piece.

dead-zone 06-05-2012 04:42 PM

From reading all the post I am in a big delema between the NGKs and Densos and dono which ones to get. I know that Densos the spring has to be stretched. How about the NGKs?
BTW, nice thread!

jack_hammer 06-05-2012 05:06 PM

http://img.tapatalk.com/467ad008-9135-15f3.jpg
Quote:

Originally Posted by theurgy (Post 1402869)
Just lightly tap it against a table.







Quote:

Originally Posted by jmhinkle (Post 1402998)
That would not be ungapping, that would be gapping. You need to aim for .028 anyway. Use a bench vise for the most precise compression, or carefully push them against soft wood. Never tap them against anything. You would be risking cracking either ceramic piece.

Ummm, why not use a spark plug gapping tool that will bend it for you?

Sent from my LG-MS690 using Tapatalk 2

rfinkle2 06-05-2012 05:30 PM

I'm not disagreeing with JMhinkle or Bronco in the least, but I can see where people would get the idea to tap the strap down to regap.

NGK.com

dead-zone 06-05-2012 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by broncojd78 (Post 1448729)
http://img.tapatalk.com/467ad008-9135-15f3.jpg









Ummm, why not use a spark plug gapping tool that will bend it for you?

Sent from my LG-MS690 using Tapatalk 2

Nice!!
BTW, this tool costs just a couple of bucks(around $3), just go for it guyz.

jack_hammer 06-05-2012 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 (Post 1448789)
I'm not disagreeing with JMhinkle or Bronco in the least, but I can see where people would get the idea to tap the strap down to regap.

NGK.com

that's awesome, until you accidentally close it too much! haha

jmhinkle 06-05-2012 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by broncojd78 (Post 1448729)
http://img.tapatalk.com/467ad008-9135-15f3.jpg









Ummm, why not use a spark plug gapping tool that will bend it for you?

Sent from my LG-MS690 using Tapatalk 2

Because we are already gapping below the recommended distance causing the arm to lean in and be angled towards the electrode. I have found that when you use a vise the arm stays more true. Also, those gapping tools suck ass. The .99 disc type that has a hole to open with works better IMHO

jack_hammer 06-06-2012 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmhinkle (Post 1449141)
Because we are already gapping below the recommended distance causing the arm to lean in and be angled towards the electrode. I have found that when you use a vise the arm stays more true. Also, those gapping tools suck ass. The .99 disc type that has a hole to open with works better IMHO

i have found a big variation in the accuracy those disc types. what is .30 on one might be .25 on another. i like the wires because they are consistent, at least in my experience. but you might have a point about the vise for closing the gap. you're still in need of another tool if you close it too much.

rfinkle2 06-06-2012 07:26 AM

This is getting more technical than I think it was intended, but gathering all of this info I think I would:

-use a feeler gauge
-close the gap with a vise to be sure the strap and its orientation to the electrode is consistent
-open the gap (if necessary with a plug specific gapping tool)

The tool that you posted Bronco sometimes are hard to find with a measure ring that is <.030.

I would like to have one of those because feelers are hard to use sometimes, but I need to find one with a gap as low as .026.

smoogs12 06-06-2012 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 (Post 1449503)
This is getting more technical than I think it was intended, but gathering all of this info I think I would:

-use a feeler gauge
-close the gap with a vise to be sure the strap and its orientation to the electrode is consistent
-open the gap (if necessary with a plug specific gapping tool)

The tool that you posted Bronco sometimes are hard to find with a measure ring that is <.030.

I would like to have one of those becuase feelers are hard to use sometimes, but I need to find one with a gap as low as .026.


It had always been my understanding that using anything besides a wire style gauge was bad for precious metal plugs. true false?

rfinkle2 06-06-2012 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smoogs12 (Post 1449614)
It had always been my understanding that using anything besides a wire style gauge was bad for precious metal plugs. true false?

I've read to use a feeler gauge only on the precious metal plugs. LOL.

I guess it depends on the source. Denso says not to gap their plugs (iridium) due to the efficiency of iridium being able to overcome any gap error and NGK would have you tapping the strap. HAHA!!!

I know that using a traditonal slide around copper plug gapper is a definite no - no.

I would think that the picture posted of the guage above and a feeler gauge would be safe as long as we are not reckless / rough on the electrode.

Texas Speed Demon Fag 06-06-2012 09:58 AM

I tapped mine down to .28 and used a standard gapper...no issues, but lately I have started feeling a smal miss after 5,000 miles and I am thinking its time to check for fouling. Will also get one of those wire ones if I can find one with the smaller gap like the last guy stated.

Haltech 07-16-2012 11:46 PM

Bump. Updated. If you have other plugs to be listed, reply here. Thanks

3Gee Tee 07-23-2012 07:19 AM

What do you recommend on a stock motor? Would I see any benefits running a 1 step colder plug or should I just stick with OEM specs?

rfinkle2 07-23-2012 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Gee Tee (Post 1522560)
What do you recommend on a stock motor? Would I see any benefits running a 1 step colder plug or should I just stick with OEM specs?

If you are running boost levels>stock, you may benefit, otherwise stick with the factory heat range.

3Gee Tee 07-23-2012 07:56 AM

10-4, thanks for the input.

Followup question: Which brand? I hear good things on this forum about NGK and Denso so I assume they're both comparable?

rfinkle2 07-23-2012 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Gee Tee (Post 1522621)
10-4, thanks for the input.

Followup question: Which brand? I hear good things on this forum about NGK and Denso so I assume they're both comparable?

It looks as if people are slowly moving to NGK because of some recent findings of cracked porcelain on the Denso's.

The NGK will need to be regapped because the out of the box gap is a bit large for the ms3.

burn813 07-24-2012 08:47 PM

I hate to say it rob, but the matte black wrap you have on your car looks DOPE..... how much did it end up costing you?

BudUMfan 07-24-2012 08:59 PM

I am running stock boost...for now with step colder NKG's...no issues

3Gee Tee 07-25-2012 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BudUMfan (Post 1525768)
I am running stock boost...for now with step colder NKG's...no issues

What brand and did you have to regap them?


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BudUMfan 07-25-2012 08:13 AM

I have NKG and gapped to .030, I will be running 19.5lbs when I retune.

burn813 07-25-2012 12:39 PM

@rfinkle2 answer my question mang

silvapain 07-25-2012 01:15 PM

Only use plug gapper tools to open up the plug gap; not to actually measure the gap. Use a set of feeler gauges to measure gap properly.


Tapadatass

speed0450 08-15-2012 01:09 PM

From reading the thread, since I currently only have a cobb sri and I am running stock boost levels should I go 1 step colder or just stick with the stock heat range. Also have the denso problems been worked out? Thanks

tddvrrn 08-15-2012 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speed0450 (Post 1560610)
From reading the thread, since I currently only have a cobb sri and I am running stock boost levels should I go 1 step colder or just stick with the stock heat range. Also have the denso problems been worked out? Thanks

if you had read the thread, you would have read, a whole bunch of times, that stock boost=stock heat range plugs.

maybe it is time to work on the comprehension part of reading?:loveweed:

speed0450 08-15-2012 02:06 PM

thanks for your input. but also some of the people that are on stock boost are running one step colder and was hoping to hear from them on there opinions of how the car is running with them. i do comprehend reading thru posts and searching before I post. that is the reason that i donated to help the forum stay up and running for me to gain knowledge as everyone else. fyi...:loveweed: ..has never been in my system.

theurgy 08-15-2012 02:21 PM

I'm currently running ITV-22's while I'm in between tuning solutions at the moment.
I am currently still on stock tune and boost and it runs fine.

smoogs12 08-15-2012 04:10 PM

@speed0450 you want to run the hottest plug you can without pre-ignition.

Tapa

CWP_MS3 09-19-2012 02:11 PM

Discuss Here: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ge-1-2-a-5692/


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