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This cannot really be a serious post, right? I am the last guy to be a straight up asshole to someone but it looks like you didn't read any of this thread or any other thread and installed your internals. If I am wrong, I apologize, but come on.
__________________ 2010 Liquid Silver MS3 - COBB SRI/TIH, AP, JBR 88 Duro RMM, JBR Bushings, JBR SSP, AT Internals, CP-e Catted DP/RP, Michelin Pilot Super Sports 235/40 18, Motorcraft MT Fluid, Step Colder NGK's Wife's Car: 2013 CX5 AWD Grand Touring (It's slow but handles nice) OBAMA SUCKS Stratified Tune by Lex | |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() is it best to go through Eric@edgeautosports to get the best pricing on these internals?
__________________ 2012 CPW Mazdaspeed 3 |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I did and was happy
__________________ 2010 Liquid Silver MS3 - COBB SRI/TIH, AP, JBR 88 Duro RMM, JBR Bushings, JBR SSP, AT Internals, CP-e Catted DP/RP, Michelin Pilot Super Sports 235/40 18, Motorcraft MT Fluid, Step Colder NGK's Wife's Car: 2013 CX5 AWD Grand Touring (It's slow but handles nice) OBAMA SUCKS Stratified Tune by Lex |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Price and service. They will even talk you through the install if necessary.
__________________ 2012 mazdaspeed 3, black mica w/ tech package, AFE drop in dry filter, Autotech internals and CS rmm inserts. . |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() So I did the upgrade with KMD internals yesterday, and I've got a few notes that might help people. This is on an MS6, so ymmv for a 3: - Definitely remove IC cover, I ended up removing the IC too but that's not necessary (see note on blue line). I don't see any logical reason to remove the TIH or the battery, they do not restrict access at all. I did remove the SRI, mainly so I could get the big air hose out of the way of the fuel lines...this is the most useful prep. - The blue fuel line clip...that shit is from another dimension. I ended up prying it completely off before the connector would come off the nip. I still don't understand it, and was pretty sure I was going to break it. Hopefully you're smarter than me. - Rather than prying on the pump, I just used a flatblade against the vertical surface and tapped with a mallet. Slid right out. - Don't worry about bending the metal fuel line out of the way before sliding the pump out. Once I slid the pump out and away enough, it separated on it's own with no grief. - I ended up breaking my vice trying to get the main threads loose, forcing me to ride my bike through the rain to use my dad's vice. HAVE A GOOD VICE, and use some wood shims or rubber strips to hold the pump. As far as the rebuild itself...just be wary and clean. The inside of the sleeve on mine had some pretty heavy crud. The instructions that come with the KMD internals are useless as far as the mechanical process, but fairly explicit as far as lubrication so follow that (grease internal parts, use oil on o-rings, don't forget the outer o-ring before re-installing. In the process of threading the pump back in, a bunch of grit/corrosion from the housing would break loose and land in the body, forcing me to clean it out again. This happened a number of times, just be careful. Primed it a few times and it fired right up...immediately hit 1700 PSI before eventually settling down. It's very clicky and noisy right now but seems to be working well. I let it idle for about 20 minutes then shut it off. After I put my exhaust on today I'll go for a long drive and see how everything goes.
__________________ 2006 MS6 GT: CorkSport CBE and RP, TMIC / tubes; SURE Aeros v2 SRI w/AEM, Torq RMM, Short Cut, anchors; Cobb AP, TIP, XPE BPV; KMD HPFP; BC coilovers; SPC balljoints; JBR TIGs, EGR delete, OCC S2, spacers; Technafit SS lines; Hawk HPS; Iridium plugs :::: STRATIFIED Lex tune on hold :::: Coming Soon: a few boxes of crap I haven't had time to install. :::: 2002 MP5 w/ HELLA RICEY BITS, Daily Driven with some embarrassment and lots of love. :::: :::: |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() All, I did the internal install on the weekend gone by (@rghispanic88 thanks for the instructions) and I'm trying to determine what is the average fuel pressure people are seeing after the upgrade? I was seeing almost 1700psi with the OEM internals, but after the install I'm currently seeing between 1700-1780psi, but this is with me only pressing the pedal to about 5psi of boost. I haven't gone WOT throttle yet as I'm concerned I'm not seeing significantly higher output. ![]() Any suggestions, could it be installed incorrectly?
__________________ 2010 VRM MS3 CS SRI, CS TIP, CS TMIC, JBR RMM, AUTOTECH HPFP INTERNALS, MOTORCRAFT XT-M5-QS UR DP, UR TP, FORGE V2 BPV, DENSO ITV22, DDM 6K LOWS, 8K FOGS, LED SWITCHBACK PARKING LIGHTS, RED CALIPERS - COBB AP - STAGE 2 93 OCT CUSTOM TUNE IN PROGRESS.... ![]() |
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![]() | ![]() | #287 | ![]() |
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__________________ ![]() Fast cars are for straight lines. Corners are for fast drivers. 2006 Corvette Z06 - AKA "El Zorro" Sold: 2012 Evolution X GSR - 394awhp / 378awtq Sold: 2011 MS3 Hypnotic Tuned @ 322whp/370tq | |
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(Thread Starter) | ![]() ![]() ![]()
pressure under part-throttle is really not what we are really concerned about. you want to focus on the pressure at full throtle or WOT. catch a log with the Ap strating at 2500 to redline, about 6300 RPM and makae sure that your pressure is not below 1600
__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" | |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Can someone more thoroughly explain step #8.5....? The one with the zip tie.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 - Sold New: 2008 Toyota Tundra |
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![]() | ![]() | #290 | ![]() |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Look at the bottom of the fuel pump where there a metal line. You need a 19mm wrench to take out the nut that attaches the pump to the metal line. When you remove that nut, it will fall down to the fuel line and be a pain in the ass to get back. That's why you put a zip tie to prevent the nut from sliding down the metal fuel line.
__________________ ![]() Fast cars are for straight lines. Corners are for fast drivers. 2006 Corvette Z06 - AKA "El Zorro" Sold: 2012 Evolution X GSR - 394awhp / 378awtq Sold: 2011 MS3 Hypnotic Tuned @ 322whp/370tq |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() You wana place a zip tie bellow the nut on the bottom fuel line, so when u take it off it doesn't slide out of your reach. I just used some tape. Then after its all put back together u remove the zip tie tapin
__________________ 2008 MS3 AEM CAI, COBB TIP, HKS CB, TURBOXS BPV, COBB FMIC, JBR RMM, JBR OCC, CP-E CATTED DP, TB TIG, SnailD Tune E85 |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() subbing
__________________ 2012 CPW Mazdaspeed 3 |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() anyone know if the stock fuel pumps on the send gens are the same as the speed6? thinking of just buying a new fuel pump and putting the internals in it and just swaping it out for mine. i know the part number for the speed6 pump and not the speed3 so I can't be certain im ordering the right part |
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![]() | ![]() | #294 | ![]() |
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__________________ 2012 LSM Non-tech Kensun 6000k HID / SURE 70a RMM \Cobb AP/ Autotech Internals\ Corksport SRI + TIP/ Synchronic BOV Interior: AppRadio 2 + ARLiberator + ScanTool Bluetooth OBDII Reader + Torque Pro = Win. | |
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![]() | ![]() | #295 | ![]() |
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Why would you want a whole new pump assembly?
__________________ -Pat 2008 True Red MS3 GT3071R 'n Stuff SOLD 1999 Jeep XJ 6.5" Lift | Armor | 33" Tires | Bumpers 1996 Jeep XJ 3.5" Lift | 31" GY Duratracs | Bumpers 1994 Miata 15x8's w/NT05's | KYB AGX | Hardog Roll Bar | 70D Engine Mounts | |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() I did my install last weekend. Seen how too's that say remove the intake and batt box. Hmmm too much work for me!! -Removed tmic -shoved rag down by fuel line under nut -took my 19mm wrench and loosened nut -removed upper quick disconnect lines -removed inverted torx -removed pump -placed pump on clean surface -pulled out spring/rod portion -air comressor filled up to 60psi(half of capacity so its not full power) -used my 1/2in mac air gun to zip off nut while holding pump in hand -removed bottom part of pump pay attention what sise is up and facing down -lubed up oring on inside of nut you zipped off -took shaft and slid in and out of oring(it did take convicing this was the most tedious part i thought i was going to fold the oring over or damage it at first -reinstalled into pump itself -hit the nut with the gun 2 times -slid spring down over rod and installed keepers then pushed down to lock inplace -lubed up main oring that slid into pump on car -installing into car the fuel line top itself was in the way of sliding the pump back in so i took a long skinny screw driver and slightly pushed the line over to allow clearance -all fell right into place with no issues -tightened all bolts and reinstalled everything -done!!!!!
__________________ Sold -12' Ms3 // 305hp 336tq SAE -13' CWP MS3 JBR 88a Trilogy // Full3 Aeros ID300 Intake // At Internals // UR Catless Tbe // JBR Occ // Forge V2 // Cobb FMIC // Ngk(6510)@.026 // Devils Own WMI // Freek Tune // Swift Springs // JBR Rsb 323hp/351tq SAE Current.. 02 Regal GS-Go fast stuff-286hp/314tq 12.8 @ 108.....248k original motor/trans(Broken........Trans failed at 249,334 12/6/15) 16' Mazda 6 GT (sonic silver) |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks to OP for this, Did my HPFP upgrade, very easy, i didnt have to pull anything off the car apart from the TMIC shroud to remove the pump |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Nice instructions, will be doing this soon. |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks for the write up! Will be doing this to mine in the next few days!
__________________ ![]() [ 2010 MAZDASPEED3 - Crystal White Pearl ] Lighting 6000k HID Bi-Xenon, Painted, LED Halos, HID Fogs, LED Interior | Autotech HPFP Internals | MagnaFlow CBE | CP-e DeltaCore FMIC | Cobb SRI, TIH, AP, Knob | TurboXS Hybrid BOV | UR Catted Downpipe, Test Pipe | Denso ITV22 Plugs | SURE Anchors, Counterweight, Shortcut | Rally Armor Flaps | AutoEXE Strut Bar | Speedline Hood Damper | Prosport Evo Boost Gauge, Evo Wideband AFR Gauge | JBR 80a RMM, 80a TMM Mount, Stage 2 OCC | Hella Supertones | Misc 30% Tint | Varrstoen 18 x 8.5 ES2 +35 | Koni Yellows | H&R Springs In Garage: XSPower Exhaust Manifold, Garret GTX3076R EWG |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() This thread helped a TON today! Thank you OP.. Though as I was working I forgot to add a zip tie on the metal fuel line... Luckily a pair of pliers helped get the but back from the depths of hell! I think it's been mentioned, but if anyone is looking around.. The E8 Inverted set is sold at harbor freight tools.. like 8 bucks for a set of inverted star sockets.
__________________ 2012 MazdaSPEED 3 - Crystal White Pearl Performance - Precision 5858 - Built motor (K1 Rods / Wiseco Pistons / ARP main studs / Stock head bolts) - Cobb V3 AccessPORT - PERM 5th port kit, PERM Plate - HTP 3.5" Intake (Powder Coated Pure Orange) - Autotech HPFP Internals – CPE Vband Exhaust Manifold - Kozmic Vband Downpipe, Dumptube, Oil feed / Return lines, Vented OCC, Primary EGR delete – Ultimate Racing Catback, FMIC modified for 5th port by Kozmic Motorsports - Turbosmart dual port , 45mm EWG - JBR Coolant Bypass, EGR Delete, Throttle body TIG, Dogbone RMM, Transmission Mount, Sealed OCC - Grimmspeed EBCS - NGK plugs - Bosch 3.5 Bar MAP w/MattJackson86 PnP Harness – Ported Intake manifold with VCTS delete, 1/8" Intake manifold TIG by Zack - Spec Stage 3+ Clutch and flywheel Tuned by Voltwings (OLD k04 SET UP ) 374.5 WHP 447.2 WTQ with stock K04 - 1-17-14 Dynocom dyno (New BT numbers soon) ~487WHP 455wtq Virtual Dyno and out of fuel... moar injectors! Looks - Pure Orange Powder Coated Gen Pu Stockers - Muteki SR48 Lugs - 5k HIDs / 3K HID Fogs |
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![]() | ![]() | #301 | ![]() |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() This is a good write up! ill be doing this soon to my car a must needed mod |
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![]() | ![]() | #302 | ![]() |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Just did my install today and thought i would share a few things I found that make the install easier I haven't read about yet. 1. If you are installing auto techs the directions have you completely dissasemble the pump to clean. On the sensor part that has to be removed I left the pump bolted up and used a crescent wrench to loosen the sensor before removal. If you don't have a vice or don't like clamping soft aluminum in a vice this helps with removal as you can't get an impact on there with the sensor in the way. I used a 3/8ths impact for everything else. No vice needed. 2. Removing the TIP is a lot easier than trying to loosen the lower fuel line 1/16th of a turn at a time. I even have crows foot line wrenches but i didn't have any luck getting those to work. 3. Removing the intercooler makes no sense. 4. My TIP clamp was finger tight from the factory with only 6k miles on the car. I'd check yours As I've never even touched the thing for it to be loose. While your at it just replace the darn thing it's cheap looking plastic junk 5. The fuel line fitting has tons of red lock tight on it that flakes off when cleaning the pump. Spend extra time getting that clean as it can fall off and get in the pump when rebuilding 6. If you watch the video op posted in a link don't be like them. Wear gloves and use lint free cloth . They looked like a couple of monkeys humping a football especially when installing the piston retainers. Seriously push the piston all the way up, put the silver retainer on the spring, slide keepers in place and then push the piston down to lock into place
__________________ 2011 Liquid Silver Mazdaspeed 3 - Cpe Nano Intake - Corksport Test Pipe - Cobb XLE -Corksport RMM inserts - Autotech HPFP internals - Cobb AP stage 2 tune in progress |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Just installed an aftermarket TIP on a buddy's gen2 MS3 the other day and the clamp on his stock TIP was finger tight as well.
__________________ 2013 Black Mica Mazdaspeed 3 - Current daily 2006 WWP Mazdaspeed 6 - Soon to be daily 2006 BCM Mazdaspeed 6 - Project Tuned with ![]() ![]() |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Just did this today. Thanks OP for the nice write up! Word to those who haven't done this yet and are planning to: get 'er done!! Don't be scared. Just read up ![]() Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
__________________ 2011 Mazdaspeed3 Power Mods: JBR 3" intake//CP-e top mount IC//AT internals//CS testpipe//NGK step colder plugs Other mods: JBR 88 rmm//Swift springs//RA mud flaps//JBR ssp STRATIFIED TUNED by Lex |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Autotech internals still going strong.
__________________ 2010 MS3 5% REAR 30% FRONT DDM 5K HID RMM CS TIP/SRI Dizzy Tuned Autotech Internals Swift Springs JBR Rear Sway Stoptech 309's First Turbo Car and I love it! ![]() |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Gonna be doing the install hopefully this weekend. Thanks for the write-up OP. And wish me luck! lol
__________________ 2010 MS3 purchased 02/11/12 (11,9xx miles) II Headlight Armor yellow fogs II CS RMM insert II CS SRI/TIP II DDM HID Kit low beams 4300k II Plasti-dipped rear valence II Eibach prokit II OEM Rear bumper guard II OEM roof rack II Thule 44" fairing II Privat Akzent 18x8.5+40 II 235/40 Falken Ziex II UltraGauge II Cobb AccessPort II OBX test pipe II AT Fuel Pump Internals II HKS bov VTA II CP-E TMIC II ATP Long Downpipe II CS Shift Plate II Koni Yellows II Re-tune in progress! Engine oil : Rotella T6 Oil filter : Motorcraft |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Finished my AT internals install this morning. Very easy install, easier than my TIP install. Here's some notes from my experience: -remove fuse and let the car die as you will have virtually no fuel spillage (may take a few minutes) -just removed IC cover and valve cover breather tube -removing IC lower tube and battery/ecu tray would be easier if you can't fit the open end wrenches in -crow's feet do not work so don't waste your money/time -blue clip on fuel line, just lift the blue clip out a bit with one hand and pull the line out -yellow clip will release with a flat head screwdriver easily -when putting pump back on, I just tightened the 3 bolts down evenly and the lower hard line clicked into place -primed the pump and it fired up easily Honestly don't be worried about this install! Now on my way to getting Stratified!!!!! |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Maybe I can get your guys opinion, I have a friend who was offered to switch his OEM internals with Autotechs (with roughly less than 500 miles). Here's the scenario the Autotechs were installed by a shop PTuning located in Manassas VA if your not familiar with them. Does this seem like a good/even trade? I saw that the internals required gloves, soaking in gas/fresh oil. The reason for the swap the guy with the Autotechs is trading in his speed for a focus ST
__________________ '12 MS3 Black Mica w/ Tech COBB AP V3 >> AUTOTECH HPFP >> HTP 3.5" >> ATP DP (catless) >> AXLEBACK (no mufflers) >> COBB PIPING/TR6 CORE >> JBR RMM >> SSP/BUSHINGS >> RSB >> STG. 2 OCC >> HYPNOTIC TUNED: tehmadscientist & senor finkle ![]() |
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__________________ -Pat 2008 True Red MS3 GT3071R 'n Stuff SOLD 1999 Jeep XJ 6.5" Lift | Armor | 33" Tires | Bumpers 1996 Jeep XJ 3.5" Lift | 31" GY Duratracs | Bumpers 1994 Miata 15x8's w/NT05's | KYB AGX | Hardog Roll Bar | 70D Engine Mounts | |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Have one of them log it and see how much fp it's holding.
__________________ 08 Mazdaspeed 3 Fucking FREEK TUNED and shit |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Can any of you shed some light on this question? I'm about to install my internals soon and my test pipe. I understand your suppose to drive easy for a good 100 miles or so with the internals in correct? I was wondering if I should install the internals first and let them set for a few miles and then install the test pipe, or would it be fine to install them simultaneously?
__________________ '12 MS3 Black Mica w/ Tech COBB AP V3 >> AUTOTECH HPFP >> HTP 3.5" >> ATP DP (catless) >> AXLEBACK (no mufflers) >> COBB PIPING/TR6 CORE >> JBR RMM >> SSP/BUSHINGS >> RSB >> STG. 2 OCC >> HYPNOTIC TUNED: tehmadscientist & senor finkle ![]() |
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![]() | ![]() | #312 | ![]() |
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__________________ ![]() Fast cars are for straight lines. Corners are for fast drivers. 2006 Corvette Z06 - AKA "El Zorro" Sold: 2012 Evolution X GSR - 394awhp / 378awtq Sold: 2011 MS3 Hypnotic Tuned @ 322whp/370tq | |
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| ![]() ![]() ![]() Ok sounds good appreciate your input!
__________________ '12 MS3 Black Mica w/ Tech COBB AP V3 >> AUTOTECH HPFP >> HTP 3.5" >> ATP DP (catless) >> AXLEBACK (no mufflers) >> COBB PIPING/TR6 CORE >> JBR RMM >> SSP/BUSHINGS >> RSB >> STG. 2 OCC >> HYPNOTIC TUNED: tehmadscientist & senor finkle ![]() |
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Fuel Pump internals Install! | |
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