Fuel Pump internals Install!

[Bosox]

Originally Posted by gpower07 shit...today i did my autotech internal...but i didn't lop with motor oil on the piston and spring....am i going ok? i already start the car...warm up for 30 min. and drove for half mile!!!!!

Really??

Originally Posted by gpower07 i dipped the piston with the O ring into gasoline. will that kill the O ring? if so. i can take it out and redo everything again.

This cannot really be a serious post, right? I am the last guy to be a straight up asshole to someone but it looks like you didn't read any of this thread or any other thread and installed your internals. If I am wrong, I apologize, but come on.

[Dubcnea]

is it best to go through Eric@edgeautosports to get the best pricing on these internals?

[Bosox]

I did and was happy

[bigriver]

Originally Posted by Dubcnea is it best to go through Eric@edgeautosports to get the best pricing on these internals?

Price and service. They will even talk you through the install if necessary.

[soulglow]

So I did the upgrade with KMD internals yesterday, and I've got a few notes that might help people. This is on an MS6, so ymmv for a 3:

- Definitely remove IC cover, I ended up removing the IC too but that's not necessary (see note on blue line). I don't see any logical reason to remove the TIH or the battery, they do not restrict access at all. I did remove the SRI, mainly so I could get the big air hose out of the way of the fuel lines...this is the most useful prep.

- The blue fuel line clip...that shit is from another dimension. I ended up prying it completely off before the connector would come off the nip. I still don't understand it, and was pretty sure I was going to break it. Hopefully you're smarter than me.

- Rather than prying on the pump, I just used a flatblade against the vertical surface and tapped with a mallet. Slid right out.

- Don't worry about bending the metal fuel line out of the way before sliding the pump out. Once I slid the pump out and away enough, it separated on it's own with no grief.

- I ended up breaking my vice trying to get the main threads loose, forcing me to ride my bike through the rain to use my dad's vice. HAVE A GOOD VICE, and use some wood shims or rubber strips to hold the pump.

As far as the rebuild itself...just be wary and clean. The inside of the sleeve on mine had some pretty heavy crud. The instructions that come with the KMD internals are useless as far as the mechanical process, but fairly explicit as far as lubrication so follow that (grease internal parts, use oil on o-rings, don't forget the outer o-ring before re-installing.

In the process of threading the pump back in, a bunch of grit/corrosion from the housing would break loose and land in the body, forcing me to clean it out again. This happened a number of times, just be careful.

Primed it a few times and it fired right up...immediately hit 1700 PSI before eventually settling down. It's very clicky and noisy right now but seems to be working well. I let it idle for about 20 minutes then shut it off. After I put my exhaust on today I'll go for a long drive and see how everything goes.

[J_Logik]

All, I did the internal install on the weekend gone by (@rghispanic88 thanks for the instructions) and I'm trying to determine what is the average fuel pressure people are seeing after the upgrade?

I was seeing almost 1700psi with the OEM internals, but after the install I'm currently seeing between 1700-1780psi, but this is with me only pressing the pedal to about 5psi of boost. I haven't gone WOT throttle yet as I'm concerned I'm not seeing significantly higher output.

Any suggestions, could it be installed incorrectly?

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by J_Logik All, I did the internal install on the weekend gone by (@rghispanic88 thanks for the instructions) and I'm trying to determine what is the average fuel pressure people are seeing after the upgrade? I was seeing almost 1700psi with the OEM internals, but after the install I'm currently seeing between 1700-1780psi, but this is with me only pressing the pedal to about 5psi of boost. I haven't gone WOT throttle yet as I'm concerned I'm not seeing significantly higher output. Any suggestions, could it be installed incorrectly?

If it was installed incorrectly your fuel pressure would be in the 60's. As long as you don't go under 1600 at WOT, you're fine. Nothing wrong with having higher pressure.

[rghispanic88]

Originally Posted by J_Logik All, I did the internal install on the weekend gone by (@rghispanic88 thanks for the instructions) and I'm trying to determine what is the average fuel pressure people are seeing after the upgrade? I was seeing almost 1700psi with the OEM internals, but after the install I'm currently seeing between 1700-1780psi, but this is with me only pressing the pedal to about 5psi of boost. I haven't gone WOT throttle yet as I'm concerned I'm not seeing significantly higher output. Any suggestions, could it be installed incorrectly?

no prob man

pressure under part-throttle is really not what we are really concerned about.

you want to focus on the pressure at full throtle or WOT. catch a log with the Ap strating at 2500 to redline, about 6300 RPM and makae sure that your pressure is not below 1600

[Dumyz]

Can someone more thoroughly explain step #8.5....? The one with the zip tie.

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by Dumyz Can someone more thoroughly explain step #8.5....? The one with the zip tie.

Look at the bottom of the fuel pump where there a metal line. You need a 19mm wrench to take out the nut that attaches the pump to the metal line. When you remove that nut, it will fall down to the fuel line and be a pain in the ass to get back. That's why you put a zip tie to prevent the nut from sliding down the metal fuel line.

[RobLoMS3]

You wana place a zip tie bellow the nut on the bottom fuel line, so when u take it off it doesn't slide out of your reach. I just used some tape. Then after its all put back together u remove the zip tie

tapin

[Dubcnea]

subbing

[Werm]

anyone know if the stock fuel pumps on the send gens are the same as the speed6? thinking of just buying a new fuel pump and putting the internals in it and just swaping it out for mine. i know the part number for the speed6 pump and not the speed3 so I can't be certain im ordering the right part

[Acedelgado]

Originally Posted by Werm anyone know if the stock fuel pumps on the send gens are the same as the speed6? thinking of just buying a new fuel pump and putting the internals in it and just swaping it out for mine. i know the part number for the speed6 pump and not the speed3 so I can't be certain im ordering the right part

Why? The hardest part of the install is taking the pump off and putting it back on the car. Why do it twice? Internals themselves are super easy to do and hard to screw up. Just make sure you wear some dust-free nitrate gloves to handle the parts, lube lightly and don't force anything.

[smoogs12]

Originally Posted by Werm anyone know if the stock fuel pumps on the send gens are the same as the speed6? thinking of just buying a new fuel pump and putting the internals in it and just swaping it out for mine. i know the part number for the speed6 pump and not the speed3 so I can't be certain im ordering the right part

This makes almost no sense to me. Either way you are going have to disassemble a pump and put one back together. Its not like you are eliminating any chance of something going wrong. You are preforming all the same steps as someone that just simply swaps out the internals.

Why would you want a whole new pump assembly?

[pwned]

I did my install last weekend.

Seen how too's that say remove the intake and batt box. Hmmm too much work for me!!

-Removed tmic
-shoved rag down by fuel line under nut
-took my 19mm wrench and loosened nut
-removed upper quick disconnect lines
-removed inverted torx
-removed pump
-placed pump on clean surface
-pulled out spring/rod portion
-air comressor filled up to 60psi(half of capacity so its not full power)
-used my 1/2in mac air gun to zip off nut while holding pump in hand
-removed bottom part of pump pay attention what sise is up and facing down
-lubed up oring on inside of nut you zipped off
-took shaft and slid in and out of oring(it did take convicing this was the most tedious part i thought i was going to fold the oring over or damage it at first
-reinstalled into pump itself
-hit the nut with the gun 2 times
-slid spring down over rod and installed keepers then pushed down to lock inplace
-lubed up main oring that slid into pump on car
-installing into car the fuel line top itself was in the way of sliding the pump back in so i took a long skinny screw driver and slightly pushed the line over to allow clearance
-all fell right into place with no issues
-tightened all bolts and reinstalled everything
-done!!!!!

[Seaton]

Thanks to OP for this,
Did my HPFP upgrade, very easy, i didnt have to pull anything off the car apart from the TMIC shroud to remove the pump

[h0ckeyman]

Nice instructions, will be doing this soon.

[soaptray]

Thanks for the write up! Will be doing this to mine in the next few days!

[kashbringer]

This thread helped a TON today! Thank you OP.. Though as I was working I forgot to add a zip tie on the metal fuel line... Luckily a pair of pliers helped get the but back from the depths of hell!

I think it's been mentioned, but if anyone is looking around.. The E8 Inverted set is sold at harbor freight tools.. like 8 bucks for a set of inverted star sockets.

[Martinezs89]

This is a good write up! ill be doing this soon to my car a must needed mod

[punisherB273]

Just did my install today and thought i would share a few things I found that make the install easier I haven't read about yet.

1. If you are installing auto techs the directions have you completely dissasemble the pump to clean. On the sensor part that has to be removed I left the pump bolted up and used a crescent wrench to loosen the sensor before removal. If you don't have a vice or don't like clamping soft aluminum in a vice this helps with removal as you can't get an impact on there with the sensor in the way. I used a 3/8ths impact for everything else. No vice needed.

2. Removing the TIP is a lot easier than trying to loosen the lower fuel line 1/16th of a turn at a time. I even have crows foot line wrenches but i didn't have any luck getting those to work.

3. Removing the intercooler makes no sense.

4. My TIP clamp was finger tight from the factory with only 6k miles on the car. I'd check yours As I've never even touched the thing for it to be loose. While your at it just replace the darn thing it's cheap looking plastic junk

5. The fuel line fitting has tons of red lock tight on it that flakes off when cleaning the pump. Spend extra time getting that clean as it can fall off and get in the pump when rebuilding

6. If you watch the video op posted in a link don't be like them. Wear gloves and use lint free cloth . They looked like a couple of monkeys humping a football especially when installing the piston retainers. Seriously push the piston all the way up, put the silver retainer on the spring, slide keepers in place and then push the piston down to lock into place

[DingoDave]

Originally Posted by punisherB273 4. My TIP clamp was finger tight from the factory with only 6k miles on the car. I'd check yours As I've never even touched the thing for it to be loose. While your at it just replace the darn thing it's cheap looking plastic junk

Just installed an aftermarket TIP on a buddy's gen2 MS3 the other day and the clamp on his stock TIP was finger tight as well.

[3starmagnum]

Just did this today. Thanks OP for the nice write up!

Word to those who haven't done this yet and are planning to: get 'er done!! Don't be scared. Just read up

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[Adog35]

Autotech internals still going strong.

[IHIERBal]

Gonna be doing the install hopefully this weekend. Thanks for the write-up OP. And wish me luck! lol

[strukoff]

Finished my AT internals install this morning. Very easy install, easier than my TIP install. Here's some notes from my experience:

-remove fuse and let the car die as you will have virtually no fuel spillage (may take a few minutes)
-just removed IC cover and valve cover breather tube
-removing IC lower tube and battery/ecu tray would be easier if you can't fit the open end wrenches in
-crow's feet do not work so don't waste your money/time
-blue clip on fuel line, just lift the blue clip out a bit with one hand and pull the line out
-yellow clip will release with a flat head screwdriver easily
-when putting pump back on, I just tightened the 3 bolts down evenly and the lower hard line clicked into place
-primed the pump and it fired up easily


Honestly don't be worried about this install!

Now on my way to getting Stratified!!!!!

[manila]

Maybe I can get your guys opinion, I have a friend who was offered to switch his OEM internals with Autotechs (with roughly less than 500 miles). Here's the scenario the Autotechs were installed by a shop PTuning located in Manassas VA if your not familiar with them. Does this seem like a good/even trade? I saw that the internals required gloves, soaking in gas/fresh oil.

The reason for the swap the guy with the Autotechs is trading in his speed for a focus ST

[smoogs12]

Originally Posted by manilaMS12 Maybe I can get your guys opinion, I have a friend who was offered to switch his OEM internals with Autotechs (with roughly less than 500 miles). Here's the scenario the Autotechs were installed by a shop PTuning located in Manassas VA if your not familiar with them. Does this seem like a good/even trade? I saw that the internals required gloves, soaking in gas/fresh oil. The reason for the swap the guy with the Autotechs is trading in his speed for a focus ST

He would be an idiot not to. Seems pretty straight forward to me

[Boosted Beluga]

Have one of them log it and see how much fp it's holding.

[manila]

Can any of you shed some light on this question? I'm about to install my internals soon and my test pipe. I understand your suppose to drive easy for a good 100 miles or so with the internals in correct? I was wondering if I should install the internals first and let them set for a few miles and then install the test pipe, or would it be fine to install them simultaneously?

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by manilaMS12 Can any of you shed some light on this question? I'm about to install my internals soon and my test pipe. I understand your suppose to drive easy for a good 100 miles or so with the internals in correct? I was wondering if I should install the internals first and let them set for a few miles and then install the test pipe, or would it be fine to install them simultaneously?

Simultaneously is fine. And 100 miles is excessive. You don't need anywhere near that

[manila]

Originally Posted by adlpb Simultaneously is fine. And 100 miles is excessive. You don't need anywhere near that

Ok sounds good appreciate your input!

[Raider]

Originally Posted by wolly6973 Not sure what the OTS maps command for fp for stage 1, but that may be all that is requested. Also, cpe pumps tend to run closer to stock pressures than autotech & kmd. Try upping the boost and increasing fp and see if you are still holding pressure. Do these in separate map revisions though, so you will know what pushes it over the limit.

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Fuel Pump internals Install!