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 Old 08-09-2012, 01:47 PM   #41
 
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Figured out lean code, diameter of intake tubing I used is larger than factory so there was unmonitored air. Currently I have switched to a K&N intake short ram instead and it has been running better even though power band seems less responsive than my original intake.
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 Old 08-30-2012, 09:05 AM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by shawn19 View Post
Sorry if this a stupid question but would a walboro 255 be enough fuel pump for full bolt-on through stage 2?
I see what your saying.. If the CDFP is having trouble keeping up, then your thinking its because the supply is dwindling? Perhaps the answer to that isnt about the feed rate to the CDFP as much as it is the amount of fuel the CDFP is taking in per cycle. In this case you wouldnt fix the high pressure problem without upgraded internals.
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 Old 09-06-2012, 03:37 PM   #43
 
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Default Fuel Pump Failing!

Went to get Dyno'd at Cobb last week. Running stg 2 with Auto Tech internals. Tuner said my FP failed while tuning. He tuned for my intake before the pump gave out so he built me a baseline map and said for me to put the stock internals back in and to investigate the Autotech ones for scoring or defects. I went home took the pump appart and found the Autotech internals ok with No sign of scoring or damage. While I had the pump out I investigated the housing and found a four-digit number on the high pressure line out of the pump. After research I found that the number which was 7215 was the manufacturing date of that pump and there was a service bulletin online from mazda stating that any pump manufactured before march 2007 should be replaced. When opening the pump with the 18mm socket to reinstall the OEM internals the stainless steel cylinder where the piston comes through was loose enough that I didnt have to place the pump in a vice to unscrew the stainless steel cylinder.Went ahead and put the stock internals back in.This time I took my torque wrench and tightened the 18mm stainless steel cylinder to about 35lb/ft, to ensure it would unscrew. Now running that base map, I keep throwing P2187 over and over again. Does this mean I need to purchase a brand new pump. I do have they Autotech internals cleaned and ready to install again. Did my pump fail on the dyno becuase the stainless steel cylinder started to back it self out, or did it fail because it was a faulty pump assembly from the factory( new internals were installed) Knowledgable people please help as I dont want to have to spend 400$ on a brand new pump if I dont have too. I want me car to run good again so I can get it back on the dyno for a protune.
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 Old 09-16-2012, 09:37 PM   #44
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Hey sorry if this has been covered but I searched and didn't find a definitive answer. I understand that ~400 is good for idle and ~1750+ is good for WOT. I'm good on both those counts. I was cruising on the highway today and noticed my FP dropped to 280 while using cruise control and coasting down a hill at about 75mph. Is this acceptable? I've got autotech internals.
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 Old 09-19-2012, 01:47 PM   #45
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Discuss here:
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...thread-105248/
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