Beans Above the Frank Build

[Tomas]

If the new plugs don't do it right away, disconnect one of the COPs, insert a plug in it and crank the engine while someone holds that plug (holding the COP) close to a spot on the head or some other grounded part. Good old visual confirmation you actually have spark doesn't hurt.

[Dano]

yes but please don't ground yourself...chit hurts like a mofo...but either way you get your answer

[Haltech]

<Sprinkles Pixie Dust Upon Thread For Good Luck>

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Tomas If the new plugs don't do it right away, disconnect one of the COPs, insert a plug in it and crank the engine while someone holds that plug (holding the COP) close to a spot on the head or some other grounded part. Good old visual confirmation you actually have spark doesn't hurt.

I also bought a spark tester at VatoZone, so I'm going to check the coils before I put it all back together. I don't want to put the TMIC back on to try and start it, just to take it back off to test the coils.

I'm getting a FMIC just so I can access the plugs without pulling the intercooler off. Fuck this shit.

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by Dano yes but please don't ground yourself...chit hurts like a mofo...but either way you get your answer

In case of poor eyesight or to reaffirm one's manliness one can also stick one's penis in the COP and hold the tip of plug against a ground.

[silvapain]

All four coils have at least 30,000 volts. New plugs in and gapped to 0.026". Still didn't fucking fire up.


Perhaps the injector plugs are out of order? What would be the symptoms of that?

[chimmike]

Originally Posted by silvapain All four coils have at least 30,000 volts. New plugs in and gapped to 0.026". Still didn't fucking fire up. Perhaps the injector plugs are out of order? What would be the symptoms of that?

frankly gotta be pretty hard to plug those in out of order...........

pull off intake manifold and check for cracks!

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by chimmike frankly gotta be pretty hard to plug those in out of order........... pull off intake manifold and check for cracks!

The powdercoating shop called me yesterday afternoon and said my IM was done, so I'm going to head up there and pick it up, then pull the borrowed IM off and put mine on. I'll check tthe injector plugs then and be able to look for cracks in the borrowed IM.

[djuosnteisn]

Did you powder coat the valve cover?

[phate]

Originally Posted by Tomas If the new plugs don't do it right away, disconnect one of the COPs, insert a plug in it and crank the engine while someone holds that plug (holding the COP) close to a spot on the head or some other grounded part. Good old visual confirmation you actually have spark doesn't hurt.

Originally Posted by Dano yes but please don't ground yourself...chit hurts like a mofo...but either way you get your answer

Pssh, that's one of the quickest and easiest ways to check for spark! We sometimes call that the farmer's method around here.

[06Speed6]

Originally Posted by silvapain All four coils have at least 30,000 volts. New plugs in and gapped to 0.026". Still didn't fucking fire up. Perhaps the injector plugs are out of order? What would be the symptoms of that?

How did you determine that they had 30k volts? They should be way way more than that, 60k wouldnt surprise me. Cars from the 1960s ran 30k volt coils.

[djuosnteisn]

I thought 75k was typical on our cars.

[J-Liss]

Im still thinking TB fuse or something.

[Haltech]

Welp, my taser gun fires over 50K volts through each dart... and i can fire 4 at one time

But yeah, the voltage should easily be around 50K min up to 75K

[06Speed6]

I dont know of a TB specific fuse.

[J-Liss]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 I dont know of a TB specific fuse.

well, on mine it went bad, put a new one in, and it worked, put t he old one in and it started working...f'ing mazda.

[Tomas]

Is there still fuel on top of the pistons after your tried to start it?

[easy]

can it be a head related issue? stuck or sticking valve?


do a compression test!!

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 How did you determine that they had 30k volts? They should be way way more than that, 60k wouldnt surprise me. Cars from the 1960s ran 30k volt coils.

I set the spark tester gap to 30K volts. All four coils arced the gap. All I needed to do was very they worked, not what voltage they were putting out.


Tapadatass

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn Did you powder coat the valve cover?

Yes.


Tapadatass

[93silvergt]

this car needs to get working it made me sad reading through this thread!

[MATT DAMOND]

Originally Posted by GLORIFIEDBOZO Of course it was, I installed that bitch. Now if had been say, MATT DAMOND, you might have had something to worry about.

Dude, I way over tighten everything. I broke 50% of all the bolts on my last bike.


I'm with J-Liss on this. I'm thinking the throttle might be fucked up. I forgot who, but I had to unplug someones TB once while working on shit, forgot to plug it back in, and car barely started/ran like shit.

Any locals have an extra TB?

[phate]

I have an extra car on jack stands...lemme know if you need donor parts

[Boost_creep]

Can't wait to hear about this thing firing up already. Lol.

I have a spare throttle body, if you would like to borrow it to rule it out.

[atvfreek]

You have spark, and if you have fuel on top of the cylinders, then you have fuel. Maybe try holding your foot to the floor (injector cut) and crank. See if it audibly changes and tries to start.

[silvapain]

Tested the throttle body. I verified it does perform a self-test after shutting the car off. However, it does not move with the key on; phate believes that the throttle plate does not move unless the engine is cranking over or running.



BTW, I saw no cracks or other issues with the borrowed IM. I can't use my IM because I forgot that push/pull (John Guest) fitting on the IM gets fucked up when baking the powdercoating, and I didn't order a replacement. FML

P.S. A wheel bearing on my beater car took a dump tonight and I had to have it towed home. Now I'm down TWO cars.

[x09MS3GT]

....So much anticipation....I'm willing to bet the root of your problems is..your car probably has stage-fright.

[SPEED6 KILLAH]

Sorry to hear you still don't have your car running that sucks. There is a couple of things you can try if you haven't. One is you check all the connector even the big black and grey thats on the HPFP bracket make sure none of the pins back out and also check the ones that go to the main fuse block and at the pcm. Also check the ground wire that on the HPFP bracket make sure that bolt is tight and the ground is not broken.Two double check all you fuse make sure they are all good and inspect you crank pulley to make sure that the white line on the sprocket is line up with the crank sensor.

Also you should clean off the power coating were the cam sensor at so in can set flush may be it not pickin up the full pick up because the power coating around the sensor set.
I notice one of the post you said that you have e85 in the tank that you drain it out and put 98.
But my question is did you take out the fuel from the fuel rail to or just crank it?
If you didn't take the fuel out from the fuel rail you should by remove the two 10mm bolt and pry back on the fuel line and let the gas poor out and then reprime the system.

The last thing you can do is double check your timing mean in by put in the timing plate on and seen were you crank pulley at and your cams. But before you do all that you should check your compression make sure its up. It doesn't matter if you didn't break the rings in you should still build compression up

Also take some picture of the spark plugs and a video of it crankin

[silvapain]

IT RAN!



I was able to drive it for a couple miles before it died again and wouldn't start back up. Engine misfired badly and I got tons of KR with medium throttle input.

Got five DTC's:
P0113: IAT Circuit High Input
P2119: Throttle Actuator Control Throttle Body Range/Performance
P0091: Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Circuit Low
P0193: Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0300: Random Misfire Detected

P.S. A note for you tuners: the throttle plate does NOT move based on accelerator pedal position when cranking. It moves to a set position and stays there until the engine actually starts. In the video below, my buddy modulated the accelerator pedal from no input to floored and back to no input a couple times while cranking the engine.

[Enki]

Perhaps doublecheck crank angle sensor position? I'm pretty sure this is what cost JROC his motor.

[Haltech]

Well, were making progress. Hopefully this gets ironed out shortly

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by silvapain P.S. A note for you tuners: the throttle plate does NOT move based on accelerator pedal position when cranking. It moves to a set position and stays there until the engine actually starts. In the video below, my buddy modulated the accelerator pedal from no input to floored and back to no input a couple times while cranking the engine.

yes you are right about this.

i noticed this a few years ago that on the ms3 the throttle plate does not move base on APP while cranking or even with key ON.

The regular mazda 3 does however do this. While key is ON, you can press the accelerator pedal and throttle would open in conjuction with the APP.

Strange why this does not happen for the ms3 (at least why didnt they allow it?)

Glad to see another build that turned over! Hope you get this minor issue solved.

[J-Liss]

well your getting somewhere danny boy.

[SPEED6 KILLAH]

Originally Posted by silvapain IT RAN! I was able to drive it for a couple miles before it died again and wouldn't start back up. Engine misfired badly and I got tons of KR with medium throttle input. Got five DTC's: P2119: Throttle Actuator Control Throttle Body Range/Performance P0091: Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Circuit Low P0193: Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input P0300: Random Misfire Detected

Make sure the connector pins are fine on ths picture and do a continuity test on the ground wire that on hpfp

[phate]

PROGRESS!! With all those DTC's, it sounds more like a wiring/ground issue.

[chimmike]

Instead of getting a new push-pull fitting, I got a threaded/barbed brass fitting from Napa and just tapped that hole, threaded it in and used grey RTV around it to seal it, then put the brake booster hose on the barbed fitting. Seems to be holding fine for now.

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by chimmike Instead of getting a new push-pull fitting, I got a threaded/barbed brass fitting from Napa and just tapped that hole, threaded it in and used grey RTV around it to seal it, then put the brake booster hose on the barbed fitting. Seems to be holding fine for now.

I'd rather not try and tap the port with the IM already powdercoated. I have a spare IM to use while I wait for the fitting to come in, so I might as well just order the new fitting.

That's a good idea though.


Tapadatass

[Dano]

good to see the beast was able to take is first steps.

[djuosnteisn]

Keep up the progress. Getting close man.

[easy]

P0091: Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Circuit Low
P0193: Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input

i got these codes before and it is the thin ass ground wire coming out of the harness that goes on the bracket next to the fp. This cause my car to run like shit and die. Its an easy wire to miss or rip off since its such thin and short wire.