The FAIL formerly known as "Dano's Drop-in Build"

[GLORIFIEDBOZO]

Originally Posted by silvapain This. Tapadatass

This

[Dano]

OP updated with my turbo oil feed line setup and gauge connections.


http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...9/#post1693054

[GLORIFIEDBOZO]

Originally Posted by Dano OP updated with my turbo oil feed line setup and gauge connections. http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ml#post1693054

Lemme help you out....

http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...9/#post1693054

[btstarcher]

LMAO! I was wondering what happened there!

[Dano]

Originally Posted by GLORIFIEDBOZO Lemme help you out.... http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...9/#post1693054

put the crack pipe down and step away...


I was just making it very easy to link back to OP...no clicking 3 times and scrolling.

BTW if you can really get me some 10.5.1s in 2 weeks I might consider it

[btstarcher]

Originally Posted by Dano put the crack pipe down and step away... I was just making it very easy to link back to OP...no clicking 3 times and scrolling. BTW if you can really get me some 10.5.1s in 2 weeks I might consider it

Mine should be here by then...

BTW that link back to OP....I do not think it does what you think it does....

[Dano]

what chu talkin bout willis...link works fine for me. Takes you right back to post 1.

if your browser is a slow POS like IE then you have to wait for it to scroll down to OP.

[Tokay444]

link takes me to the top of page 3. chrome & safari

[Dano]

interesting

I am on FF

oh well not going to troubleshoot this chit...lol

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Dano put the crack pipe down and step away... I was just making it very easy to link back to OP...no clicking 3 times and scrolling. BTW if you can really get me some 10.5.1s in 2 weeks I might consider it

You want 10.5:1. You know you do.


Tapadatass

[Dano]

Originally Posted by silvapain You want 10.5:1. You know you do. Tapadatass

yes but trouble is maybe my block is like a well seasoned whore and my VWC [Vagina Wall Clearance] is too big...then you can't send custom pistons back and need to sell them...

I don't really need that kinda trouble right now...lol

[Tokay444]

fixed for you. well, fixed for everyone else.

[btstarcher]

You could just plan on an overbore....then get the 88mm....

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by btstarcher You could just plan on an overbore....then get the 88mm....

Wouldn't be "drop in" at that point. The block would have to come out to bore it 20 over.


Tapadatass

[Dano]

exactly....so here's the deal...if I get things apart and I am .0035 or larger I am pulling the motor and boring it....or at least strongly considering it.

At that point I am going all in and will send my pistons back and might just get some 10.5s.....that or burn the car and my old dilapidated detached shop to the ground...

two birds...

Originally Posted by Tokay444 fixed for you. well, fixed for everyone else.

hahahahaha

and broke it for me...now I go to the last post in the thread...wait a minute...I have my prefs to show last post first so that may be the issue....Jay's "fix" does the same thing.

I give up.

[silvapain]

Dano, did you have a chance to call Kirk yesterday about getting your head rebuilt by him?


Tapadatass

[Dano]

my day at work blew completely up so I didn't get a chance...its on my list for Monday....even have a box ready for it

thanks for the number and to everyone for their helpful offers and advice.

[btstarcher]

If you need a hand with anything let me know...I'm fairly close, and I drive through LR pretty often.

[Tokay444]

If you need anything after that, don't ask me. I'm Canadian.

[Dano]

B but I thought Canadians were all over the top nice and helpful....to a fault even.




Tappin

[Tokay444]

That's called irony.

[TiGraySpeed6]

no more Mr. Nice Canadian?

[Tokay444]

If Dano was ever in Canadia, he would stay at my house.

[Jay@posifab.com]

Originally Posted by Dano put the crack pipe down and step away... I was just making it very easy to link back to OP...no clicking 3 times and scrolling. BTW if you can really get me some 10.5.1s in 2 weeks I might consider it

Lol did you think I was just fucking with you?

PM incoming.

[Dano]

not exactly...

[Dano]

10/23/12 Update:

K1 rods came in yesterday and I started gathering up some more required tools and will make a list and update OP

Since most fasteners in our motors are TTY [Torque To Yield] and if you want to be precise you will need an angle gauge in addition to a regular torque wrench. You torque the fastener to spec then another xx number of degrees as per specification to stretch the bolt. Many are aware of the crank bolt for example IIRC 95lbs + 90* [dont quote me on the tq spec]. the K1 rods are 25lbs + 55* for the included ARP 2000s.

So there are two types of angle gauges and they are inexpensive so imma getting one of each.

This one from Neikeo @ ~$13

Torque Angle and Rotation Checker Measuring Gauge Meter for Torque Wrench Tool | eBay

and this one from Lisle @ ~$29 thanks Tomas for the link to the clamp type gauge

Lisle 28100 Torque Angle Meter : Amazon.com : Automotive

Lisle 28100 Torque Angle Meter : Amazon.com : Automotive
Lisle 28100 Torque Angle Meter : Amazon.com : Automotive

[djuosnteisn]

in before cock clock angle gauge...

Originally Posted by GLORIFIEDBOZO Originally Posted by silvapain This. Tapadatass This

This

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn in before cock clock angle gauge...

I have mine sitting right next to my timing tools. I'll be sure to mail that off to Dano as well.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn in before cock clock angle gauge... This

that

and the other.

wonder what shipping costs on a cock clock angle gauge [CCAG]

say that 3 times in a row...I dare ya

post 106 updated with the newest precision angle tool soon to be available on the market.

[djuosnteisn]

My cock clock always points to high noon.

[amoosenamedhank]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn My cock clock always points to high noon.

That sounds exhuastin...

[Dano]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn My cock clock always points to high noon.

/ ThreadGoneToHellInAHandbasket


lol

so K1 Jegs and ProSport dropped by today:



Halo Series Boost-Oil Pressure-EGT gauges as well as oil gauge setup fittings and ring compressor.

Jack approves




Oil sending unit mockup. SS line comes in from the oil outlet under the ALT right past the half shaft support, then through the sender fitting and back up to the turbo. This will keep the sending unit away from EM/DP heat. Electrical lines will be merged into the harness for the crank angle sensor up to the alt and in through the firewall on the pass side.

[silvapain]

Just mount the ground wire for that oil pressure sensor somewhere nearby. My oil pressure gauge sensor is in a sandwich plate at the filter, and I grounded the sensor on the bracket by the slave cylinder.

I'm very interested to see what pressures you have on the turbo oil feed and drain lines (assuming you will be measuring both points eventually).


Tapadatass

[Dano]

Originally Posted by silvapain Just mount the ground wire for that oil pressure sensor somewhere nearby. My oil pressure gauge sensor is in a sandwich plate at the filter, and I grounded the sensor on the bracket by the slave cylinder. I'm very interested to see what pressures you have on the turbo oil feed and drain lines (assuming you will be measuring both points eventually). Tapadatass

that is the entire plan as outlined in my diagram in OP

edit: oh not measuring the drain line...why would I do that?

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Dano that is the entire plan as outlined in my diagram in OP edit: oh not measuring the drain line...why would I do that?

Sorry: I was too lazy to go back to the original post.

Differential pressure. That is what you need to know to see if you're over pressurizing the CHRA. I suppose you can assume that the drain line pressure is zero for a worst-case analysis.


Tapadatass

[Dano]

with my proposed setup I will only be able to measure pressure with no restrictor and with a 1.5mm restrictor at the block. Garret wants ~40 PSI at the turbo. I also have a 1mm [.040] restrictor banjo bolt. ATPs restrictor is a .035 so close enough.

I think the difference between 1.5 and 1.0 is close enough to get me around that 40psi sweet spot or at least much less than block pressure if its ridiculous. Then I'll run the 1.0 at the turbo and measure block pressure at the gauge after the experiment.

finding out what the pressure is at the block is the whole reason to do this and put the debate of, to restrict or not to restrict a garrett turbo, to rest lol

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by Dano with my proposed setup I will only be able to measure pressure with no restrictor and with a 1.5mm restrictor at the block. Garret wants ~40 PSI at the turbo. I also have a 1mm [.040] restrictor banjo bolt. ATPs restrictor is a .035 so close enough. I think the difference between 1.5 and 1.0 is close enough to get me around that 40psi sweet spot or at least much less than block pressure if its ridiculous. Then I'll run the 1.0 at the turbo and measure block pressure at the gauge after the experiment. finding out what the pressure is at the block is the whole reason to do this and put the debate of, to restrict or not to restrict a garrett turbo, to rest lol

Msf'ers will forever bow down to you for this....

Great work dano, can't wait to see the results

Freekn tappin

[Dano]

Originally Posted by atvfreek Msf'ers will forever bow down to you for this.... Great work dano, can't wait to see the results Freekn tappin

please...please...no need for the bowing...just send beer

[Dano]

so more goodies were acquired today. I picked up my Mazda OEM parts which are listed here:

Thanks again to phate and silvapain for the excel sheet. Pay no attention to the prices. I am not a mazdamotorsports member and got these at "shop" cost which was only +$100 so not worth joining up with MSM ATM.

I added a VVT since mine is circa 07 OE and never replaced or broken for that matter.



Look familiar?



Also got both types of angle guages today as well so I can 1) see which type works better and 2) could be one is better than another depending on the situation so I am covered for both.



Got my EGT and oil pressure gauge installed and electrical connections wired up last night. Waiting on my banjo bolts to arrive to tackle the sending unit and EGT probe project. I hope like hell I don't have to remove the turbo to get the OE feed line out. If I do it would be very hard not to put the GTX back in there

[silvapain]

Don't know about the GT's, but on my K04 I was able to remove and reinstall my oil feed line without pulling the turbo. The only real tricky part is getting the bottom crush washer in place.


Tapadatass