phate's small build

[djuosnteisn]

I can imagine it would be a fucking nightmare. You'd almost have to remove the tranny mount and lower the trans to angle the bell housing or something. I'm shuddering thinking about it lol.

<---- done way too many things the hard way lol

[Lex]

The only people that pull the tranny out without the engine or vice versa are mechanics in shops with proper lifts working from under the car with tranny jacks etc.

Not us commoners crawling under cars

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn I can imagine it would be a fucking nightmare. You'd almost have to remove the tranny mount and lower the trans to angle the bell housing or something. I'm shuddering thinking about it lol. <---- done way too many things the hard way lol

That's exactly what we had to do. And pull all the idler pulleys off.


Tapadatass

[phate]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn I can imagine it would be a fucking nightmare. You'd almost have to remove the tranny mount and lower the trans to angle the bell housing or something. I'm shuddering thinking about it lol. <---- done way too many things the hard way lol

Originally Posted by silvapain That's exactly what we had to do. And pull all the idler pulleys off. Tapadatass

We did it, and it SUCKED. You have to move the trans around, pull all the accessories off, etc etc.

DON'T DO IT. You will hate life if you try it, lol.

The front clip is super easy to pull off. In the 6's, though, the refrigerant lines run around the entire bay (all circle like). So, if you happen to have a family member who runs an hvac business (like me), or don't care about letting freon into the air (prob like me, but we didn't lol), or happen to have a system which was already purged (we did!), it's easy! It needs evac'd and filled now, but that's cheap and easy.

Once the front clip was off, setting the drivetrain on the mounts takes like 10 minutes. From there, you have way more access to pretty much everything, it's awesome.

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by phate We did it, and it SUCKED. You have to move the transf around, pull all the accessories off, etc etc. DON'T DO IT. You will hate life if you try it, lol. The front clip is super easy to pull off. In the 6's, though, the refrigerant lines run around the entire bay (all circle like). So, if you happen to have a family member who runs an hvac business (like me), or don't care about letting freon into the air (prob like me, but we didn't lol), or happen to have a system which was already purged (we did!), it's easy! It needs evac'd and filled now, but that's cheap and easy. Once the front clip was off, setting the drive on the mounts takes like 10 minutes. From there, you have way more access to pretty much everything, it's awesome.

Don't forget that on Nate's 3 we pulled the front clip off and just folded the condenser and lines over onto the passenger fender, and left the compressor hanging in the engine bay with bungee cords. No need to evac the system that way.


Tapadatass

[phate]

Originally Posted by silvapain Don't forget that on Nate's 3 we pulled the front clip off and just folded the condenser and lines over onto the passenger fender, and left the compressor hanging in the engine bay with bungee cords. No need to evac the system that way. Tapadatass

Yeah, on a 3, I believe both of the lines are on the same side of the car.

[J-Liss]

Originally Posted by silvapain Have you checked the CKP and CMP? The car won't send fuel if it doesn't see the cams and crank moving. Tapadatass

that's what i was going to post, glad i read through the posts. You can hook up that light that flashes shows if your getting spark, at least then you will know you are getting readings from the two sensors.

When your cranking the car over, does it just constantly try and start in a normal pattern, before when timing was off, the car would try and compensate it self, it would crank crank crank crank, stop, crank crank crank, stop, crank crank crank.

[phate]

She's running!!! Just put the first 20 miles on it

And it was something simple, and I feel dumb hahaha. Story time later.

[Boosten Ya(josh)]

I call it was a ground wire. Out connector wasn't plugged in.

[phate]

Alright, so, last night I checked the sensors and found voltage at the cam and crank with my multimeter. Just watched the voltage bounce around, so I thought they were ok. During that, the car popped a P0335 - crank sensor something or other.

This led me to think it might be a bad sensor, so we were going to pull the one off of my car and put it on this one. My friend Aaron was like "you have a different sensor on your car". Of course we don't -.- It looked like a different sensor, because the one on the gray 6 was backwards, lolol.

When I assembled the engine on the stand, I put the crank sensor on after I timed it. Before we put the engine in, we pulled it so it wouldn't break on anything. At whatever point I put it back on, I did it backwards, knowing it was out of adjustment upwards, so I just put it back to the 'top' portion and tightened it up. After realizing that, I put it on the right way and all was well, haha.

The ground DEFINITELY needs redone. With the battery relocated to the back, grounded to the spare tire well, the car barely turns over. I grabbed some 2 gauge wire yesterday and ran a ground from the front at the harness, directly to the battery to test things out. Huge help. I'm also going to get rid of the stupid fuse block at the front for the power wire and run a circuit breaker.

After getting it fired up, we let it warm up and topped off the coolant and power steering, and made sure there weren't any leaks. After that, we took it out and immediately realized there was a vac leak. So I put the BCS-TIP line back on and the car runs really, really well. There is a TON of throttle response.

We cruised it for 20 miles with lots of long 3rd and 4th gear pulls with just a couple pounds of boost. Each time letting it engine brake down to 2-3k rpm. We changed the oil right after that, and it looked good.

[Lex]

Let's hope this ends the fail in this car's life. Good stuff!

[Deldran]

phate did you get those crazy pistons for your car yet?

[phate]

Originally Posted by Deldran phate did you get those crazy pistons for your car yet?

Not yet, lol.

[Deldran]

Originally Posted by phate Not yet, lol.

man they sure take there time, i am sure they will be great once you get them. Cant wait to see a high comp DISI should be interesting

[Boost Addict]

Glad to see you got it running!

[J-Liss]

the circuit breaker from autozone works well on my relocation to trunk, you can use the seat belt bolt from the back seat as a ground to have less wire.

[phate]

Ran a 2 gauge ground wire from the front to the back today. Seemed to help with the one time it turned over and fired up. Drove it for a few miles and went back to give it a wash. Now there's nothing, lol, won't turn over. I'm sure the fuse block and connection to the starter need upgraded, so that's the next step. When I jumped it last night, I connected it to the front where the battery would go and it turned over/started like normal.

Car runs well, though.

[J-Liss]

Originally Posted by phate Ran a 2 gauge ground wire from the front to the back today. Seemed to help with the one time it turned over and fired up. Drove it for a few miles and went back to give it a wash. Now there's nothing, lol, won't turn over. I'm sure the fuse block and connection to the starter need upgraded, so that's the next step. When I jumped it last night, I connected it to the front where the battery would go and it turned over/started like normal. Car runs well, though.

hm, what guage power wire are you running, when i relocated to the back, i grabbed some autozone GOLD jumper cables and cut the ends off, and split them, you have red (+) and black now (-)

i took the negative terminal and grounded it to the tranny mount.

then cut the end off the positive end, put a terminal on it, with nut and bolt, to one end of the new positive cable, and ran that all the way to back of hatch to the battery, to circuit breaker/then circuit breaker to positive batter. and grounded battery to seatbelt bracket under seat. always cranked even dead in winter.

Maybe battery is weak?

[sidekick]

Originally Posted by J-Liss Maybe battery is weak?

That's what I'm thinking. I would try leaving it on a trickle charger or something. It probably got pretty weak from all the no-start cranking you were doing.

[phate]

We had the battery on a trickle charger overnight and it would barely turn the car over. I pulled the battery out of my car and it does the exact same (and it turned over my car just fine afterwards). When I jumped it, I connected at the front of the car and it turned over like normal. There's a weak link in the connections somewhere.

Right now, there is a ground wire from the battery to the spare tire well, and a ground from the battery to the front, bolted to the body. The main ground from the engine harness is bolted to this same point in the front.

The power wire (looks to be 0 gauge) goes from the battery to the front, to a two prong fused distribution block. One side then goes to the starter wire in the main harness, the other goes to the other (smaller) power wire to power everything else. It's the downstream side of this fuse block I connected to when I jumped it. The fuse block gets hot as hell after cranking for just a couple seconds. All the more reason I think it's the weak link.

[J-Liss]

yea i would remove the distribution block.

on the mazda 3, my line wasnt long enough to reach from front to back, so i bought another guage line and did a soldered bolt and nut connection and continued half way to rest of the car, and car would not crank enough to spin the flywheel hard enough, i removed it, did solid line. car cranked perfect.


wait. on the power line do you have a line from the starter, starter to the fuse box, fuse box to the distribution block, distribution block to the battery.

[phate]

Power wire goes:

Battery->fused distribution block in engine bay->starter and other harness power wire.

There really needs to be a fuse or circuit breaker at the battery, but that's not how the car came. I'll deal with that once I have it starting reliably.

[Deldran]

Might be helpful.
Granted this is with battery still in the front just modify instruction to battery in the back.
Did this on my old car man does upgrading the stock wires really help with cranking and everything

[J-Liss]

Originally Posted by phate Power wire goes: Battery->fused distribution block in engine bay->starter and other harness power wire. There really needs to be a fuse or circuit breaker at the battery, but that's not how the car came. I'll deal with that once I have it starting reliably.

ok, i think i know why this isnt working.

you will have to wire it like this for it work, which is how my mazda 3 is now, starting from engine bay:

alternator-starter-fuse box main power supply-circuit breaker-battery.

[phate]

Think I'm going to need some mspaint diagrams.

[J-Liss]

[Deldran]

My bad post fail meant to link this video



http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xRzC...%3Dp82xRzCr-lc
from galaxy Nexus vis CM10

[Downmented]

So i wonder if our alternators crap the bed after sitting with no battery in the car for a significant period of time.

My MS6 as well as a friends MS6 both sat for a little while with no battery, we then got everything back to where we could start it again. And with good batteries in the car, it wouldnt turn over and start. It would try to start, just wouldnt actually turn over. With a jump the car would start and run, but it would need a jump again to start again.

I dont really have anything to back this theory, just sounds very close to the problem you are having.

[Deldran]

Originally Posted by Downmented So i wonder if our alternators crap the bed after sitting with no battery in the car for a significant period of time. My MS6 as well as a friends MS6 both sat for a little while with no battery, we then got everything back to where we could start it again. And with good batteries in the car, it wouldnt turn over and start. It would try to start, just wouldnt actually turn over. With a jump the car would start and run, but it would need a jump again to start again. I dont really have anything to back this theory, just sounds very close to the problem you are having.

It would be really odd if that was the issue. Alternators are just generators should not matter if there is a battery or not

Sent from galaxy Nexus vis CM10

[Downmented]

Originally Posted by Deldran It would be really odd if that was the issue. Alternators are just generators should not matter if there is a battery or not Sent from galaxy Nexus vis CM10

Although i understand the concept of an alternator, i have see some stupid weird issues with these cars, and in all honesty, nothing would surprise me at this point.

Just throwing some thoughts out there thats all

[Deldran]

Originally Posted by Downmented Although i understand the concept of an alternator, i have see some stupid weird issues with these cars, and in all honesty, nothing would surprise me at this point. Just throwing some thoughts out there thats all

Yea it would be stupid for sure the only way I can see that happening is if it was something that Mazda had programmed somehow which would be bogus but u never know

Sent from galaxy Nexus vis CM10

[MS3BPS2286]

Wow what a job. Its nice to see someone tear a car down to the bare heart and build it up like that. Good job. Coming from a mechanic.

[J-Liss]

issue resolved clint?

[phate]

Didn't get a chance to work on it all weekend :/

[MSFer87]

Man you are a true mad scientist when it comes to Speeds. It's really cool to see another members car getting "recycled", and put to a good new home.

[wolly6973]

More than one member at that. Any parts from my motor make it on this one, or are you saving those for the other build?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2

[vrspeed10]

another reason why MSF is so bad ass and dizzy tune is number one!!!

[phate]

Originally Posted by wolly6973 More than one member at that. Any parts from my motor make it on this one, or are you saving those for the other build? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk 2

I think a couple small pieces went on it, but the majority will go on my new engine

[phate]

If anyone would like any part of the process outlined in more detail, I'll be doing my 6 in the next couple months. Just let me know and I'll try my best to get the info as I go along.

[phate]

Rear diff mount is finally in lol. Rear shocks were blown, so I'm putting in some oe replacements.

It's been slow progress recently.