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I've been tracking my tuning progress over in my thread. I have some VD plots and logs posted, as well. I'm running on straight 93 gas, no aux fueling. Start with this post: BNR Stage 3
__________________ 2011 MAZDASPEED 3 VIRTUAL DYNO: 339 hp / 397 ft-lbs (BNR) DYNOJET: 296 hp / 343 ft-lbs (K04) BNR Supercars Stage 3 Turbo Cobb Tuning AccesPORT • AccessTUNER Race KMD Tuning HPFP Internals v2.2 Denso ITV24 Spark Plugs Bosch 3-Bar MAP Sensor Saikou Michi Oil Catch Can Grimmspeed 3-Port EBCS JBR TIGs • EGR Delete • Rear Sway Bar • PSMM • TMM HTP 3" TIP • Battery Tray SURE Motorsports 3" MAF • RMM • Shortcut • CounterShift • Anchors • AGS 621g Shift Knob Ultimate Racing Catted Downpipe • Test Pipe • Cat-Back Exhaust CP-e FMIC • SAFEseals Turbosmart Dual Port BOV PTP Injector Seal Studs EBC RedStuff Brake Pads • UPR Rotors Swift Spec R Springs Bilstein B8 Shocks SPC Performance Rear Camber Arms Tanabe Sustec Strut Tower Brace TWM Performance Full Replacement Shifter 5zïgen ZR+ 18x7.5 (Ceramic Bronze) Continental ExtremeContact DWS Tires Rally Armor Mud Flaps Morimoto 6000K HID Replacement Bulbs DDM Tuning 3000K HID Fog Lights Headlight Armor Yellow Fog Overlays Qualir QL-MZD723 Headunit ProSport Performance Boost Gauge Aeroforce Dual Interceptor Gauges TO BE INSTALLED: Aquamist HFS-4 Alcohol Injection Stratified Auto Guardian Angel |
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Yeah, get a solid pump gas tune first then work on the e85 tune.
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Let me know if you have any questions during the process
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Just wanted to give a little update. I started working on my tune yesterday. Only running spring pressure at the moment. The past couple days I've been working on calibrating my MAF. Now that I'm happy with the LTFT's, tomorrow I'll be working on dialing in the fuel. I'm going to start out with a commanded AFR of 10.9. If I hit that without issues then 'll start adding a little more boost (17-18PSI). Timing table is also very conservative right now. This is the thing that intimidates me the most. If someone running a BNR on pump 93 would be willing to show me there's I'd really appreciate it.
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BNR Stage 3
__________________ 2011 MAZDASPEED 3 VIRTUAL DYNO: 339 hp / 397 ft-lbs (BNR) DYNOJET: 296 hp / 343 ft-lbs (K04) BNR Supercars Stage 3 Turbo Cobb Tuning AccesPORT • AccessTUNER Race KMD Tuning HPFP Internals v2.2 Denso ITV24 Spark Plugs Bosch 3-Bar MAP Sensor Saikou Michi Oil Catch Can Grimmspeed 3-Port EBCS JBR TIGs • EGR Delete • Rear Sway Bar • PSMM • TMM HTP 3" TIP • Battery Tray SURE Motorsports 3" MAF • RMM • Shortcut • CounterShift • Anchors • AGS 621g Shift Knob Ultimate Racing Catted Downpipe • Test Pipe • Cat-Back Exhaust CP-e FMIC • SAFEseals Turbosmart Dual Port BOV PTP Injector Seal Studs EBC RedStuff Brake Pads • UPR Rotors Swift Spec R Springs Bilstein B8 Shocks SPC Performance Rear Camber Arms Tanabe Sustec Strut Tower Brace TWM Performance Full Replacement Shifter 5zïgen ZR+ 18x7.5 (Ceramic Bronze) Continental ExtremeContact DWS Tires Rally Armor Mud Flaps Morimoto 6000K HID Replacement Bulbs DDM Tuning 3000K HID Fog Lights Headlight Armor Yellow Fog Overlays Qualir QL-MZD723 Headunit ProSport Performance Boost Gauge Aeroforce Dual Interceptor Gauges TO BE INSTALLED: Aquamist HFS-4 Alcohol Injection Stratified Auto Guardian Angel | |
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Its always best to run spring pressure until you get other things dialed in. Then work your way up slowly on boost as well as AFR. I would leave your timing low until you get your boost and AFR dialed in. Sounds like your going to get this done in a very safe manner. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I started out with OTS Stage2 93 timing, so peak was 9*. Just like you, I made sure to get everything else dialed in before moving on to timing.
__________________ 2011 MAZDASPEED 3 VIRTUAL DYNO: 339 hp / 397 ft-lbs (BNR) DYNOJET: 296 hp / 343 ft-lbs (K04) BNR Supercars Stage 3 Turbo Cobb Tuning AccesPORT • AccessTUNER Race KMD Tuning HPFP Internals v2.2 Denso ITV24 Spark Plugs Bosch 3-Bar MAP Sensor Saikou Michi Oil Catch Can Grimmspeed 3-Port EBCS JBR TIGs • EGR Delete • Rear Sway Bar • PSMM • TMM HTP 3" TIP • Battery Tray SURE Motorsports 3" MAF • RMM • Shortcut • CounterShift • Anchors • AGS 621g Shift Knob Ultimate Racing Catted Downpipe • Test Pipe • Cat-Back Exhaust CP-e FMIC • SAFEseals Turbosmart Dual Port BOV PTP Injector Seal Studs EBC RedStuff Brake Pads • UPR Rotors Swift Spec R Springs Bilstein B8 Shocks SPC Performance Rear Camber Arms Tanabe Sustec Strut Tower Brace TWM Performance Full Replacement Shifter 5zïgen ZR+ 18x7.5 (Ceramic Bronze) Continental ExtremeContact DWS Tires Rally Armor Mud Flaps Morimoto 6000K HID Replacement Bulbs DDM Tuning 3000K HID Fog Lights Headlight Armor Yellow Fog Overlays Qualir QL-MZD723 Headunit ProSport Performance Boost Gauge Aeroforce Dual Interceptor Gauges TO BE INSTALLED: Aquamist HFS-4 Alcohol Injection Stratified Auto Guardian Angel |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score That's good to know. That's what I'm running right now as well. I didn't get to work on anything tonight due to the weather. Kinda sucks. Do you have any tips for a starting point with the WGDC's? I'm running the grimmspeed 3 port as well. Thanks again!
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See what boost you hit on spring pressure so you have an idea. Then re-enter values back into the under-side of the error comp tables. Let the ECU take over and attemp to hit your boost targets. You probably won't hit them. Slowly work your WGDC up until you hit targets. | |
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Depending on the version of ots map you're using, the LEC table won't be populated, if it is I like to multiply it by .25. That will neuter the table. Then I leave the BEC table ots and simply change the high ramp tables to zero. Then you can still have ots values to fall back onto in the BEC table. Then zero out the wgdc table from 2500-redline. That will give you spring pressure like stated above. Should be around 14psi. All the bnr's I've tuned end up with around 50-55 for wgdc to hit and hold 21-22psi. But you want to work up the wgdc and also populate the high ramp limit tables after you determine spring pressure. It will take a couple maps to dial in, so be patient and don't rush. Costly mistakes can happen pretty fast Freekn tappin
__________________ 2010 Speed3---GTX2867 // SURE 3" Intake // HTP 3" inlet pipe // Ultimate Racing DP/TP // Corksport CBE // KMD v2.1 hpfp internals // Devils Own WMI // COBB FMIC // 3bar map sensor // GFB dual port BPV // JBR 70 duro RMM // MD Dual OCC // Drag DR-34 18x8 // Nitto Neo-gen 235/40 r18 // NJSPEED3 Ported Intake Manifold // JBR TIGS Perm Tune by the Freek ![]() 417hp/395tq 12.903@117.33 Street tires and shitty 2.25 60ft |
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^^^ atvfreek hits nail on the head for you! I can attest that it can get a bit annoying starting so low, but its 110% worth it to just work your way up... It also gives you a bit of a learning curve for the new setup. You get to see how every little change reacts. You will love your car when you are done. |
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Just finished doing a bit of logging. I ended up hitting fuel cut during my 4th gear WOT pull. Boost crept up to 21psi near redline. Maybe I shouldn't have zeroed the over boost side on my BEC table?
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Freekn tappin
__________________ 2010 Speed3---GTX2867 // SURE 3" Intake // HTP 3" inlet pipe // Ultimate Racing DP/TP // Corksport CBE // KMD v2.1 hpfp internals // Devils Own WMI // COBB FMIC // 3bar map sensor // GFB dual port BPV // JBR 70 duro RMM // MD Dual OCC // Drag DR-34 18x8 // Nitto Neo-gen 235/40 r18 // NJSPEED3 Ported Intake Manifold // JBR TIGS Perm Tune by the Freek ![]() 417hp/395tq 12.903@117.33 Street tires and shitty 2.25 60ft | |
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Made a few pulls. No fuel cut this time. Still over boosting a little. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What I would do is set the wgdc table to 40 and then enter a 10 or 20 into the boost error ramp limit high table. That should get you close. You always want wgdc to be a little lower than actual
__________________ 2010 Speed3---GTX2867 // SURE 3" Intake // HTP 3" inlet pipe // Ultimate Racing DP/TP // Corksport CBE // KMD v2.1 hpfp internals // Devils Own WMI // COBB FMIC // 3bar map sensor // GFB dual port BPV // JBR 70 duro RMM // MD Dual OCC // Drag DR-34 18x8 // Nitto Neo-gen 235/40 r18 // NJSPEED3 Ported Intake Manifold // JBR TIGS Perm Tune by the Freek ![]() 417hp/395tq 12.903@117.33 Street tires and shitty 2.25 60ft |
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I think I'm finally getting my boost dialed in. Where are you guys hitting full boost on your BNR's? The log I posted is only a 3rd gear pull. What do you think so far?
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Can someone help me diagnose the knock I'm getting? I tried pulling timing in that area but that seemed to make it worse. Map and log posted below. Thanks guys
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Do you have stock engine mounts? Stock injector seals? Anything possible loose that could be rattling triggering KR ? These cars are extremely sensitive. I can get false KR by hitting an imperfection in road. | |
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Code: 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.16 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.14 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.28 0.36 0.40 0.60 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.33 0.45 0.50 0.75 0.90 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.33 0.45 0.50 0.75 0.90 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.33 0.45 0.50 0.75 0.90 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.33 0.45 0.50 0.75 0.90 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.33 0.45 0.50 0.75 0.90 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.33 0.45 0.50 0.75 0.90 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.33 0.45 0.50 0.75 0.90 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.33 0.45 0.50 0.75 0.90 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.33 0.45 0.50 0.75 0.90 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 0.16 0.12 0.16 0.33 0.45 0.50 0.75 0.90 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10
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Also during 3rd gear logs I get very little (.3-.7) if any knock at all
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| can't take out voltron ![]() Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Wood-Ridge, NJ
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only way to really know is go out and do consecutive pulls and look to see if the KR is consistent. at your base timing and afr i dont think you should be knocking that bad unless there is some other issue | |
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This may sound a bit backwards, but try leaning it out. Sometimes our car experiences a touch of "rich knock".
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I have seen Lex do some 400HP bnr3s..... This last weekend.. =)
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I've learned very quickly that not every car responds to the same tuning stradedy. Some cars knock when boost is high with lower timing, others knock when boost low is and higher timing. And some cars can take higher boost AND higher timing together. Others need a well balance. I've learned that you really have to see how the car responds with different boost levels, AFR, and timing. I like to work with the cars specific "attitude" if you will... Try different things. But deff see if that higher KR you were seeing is consistent first!
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In any testing you do, the first thing to check for is consistency and repeatability.
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Try leaning it out a bit like rfinkle2 suggested. See what that does | |
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yes try 11.4 and work up
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