Built motor problems

[MazdaSpeedSix]

What's up guys, I tried figuring out a few things but haven't had much luck yet. Seeing if you could help. I recently built my motor, it is fully forged, .20+ bore port and polished head, manifolds and throttle body. I assembled everything, put it in and my Air/fuel went to 17.0-19.00 running very rough. Any suggestions? Ill be hooking up my access tuner tonight to see what's up but seeing if you might have an idea. I'm not even driving it due to such a rough condition. No cel lights by the way. Mod list is quite a big one but it has all supporting mods done including CPe pump and halo injector seals. ahead of time!

[ms3blackmica]

Assuming that your engine build was assembled properly and all sensors, gauges, etc. are connected properly and working, there is a few things for you to do..

a) Boost leak test it. Vacuum leaks are a huge cause of lean AFR's. The engine sucks in un-metered air that wasn't compensated for. Also pre-turbo leaks can cause lean AFR's such as your tip not being on fully. If you can confirm the system is air tight, move to b.

b) Check your fuel trims. Are they pegged at +25% ? This would indicate the ECU is doing everything in its power to add more fuel and it is not enough to bring the stoich down to 14.7 AFR. Couple things to ask you here...did you upgrade your intake to a larger MAF housing? If so, you would have to scale your MAF curve.

Let us know more info on the car. We need to know more in order to determine if its a tuning issue or something else.

[Tokay444]

.200 overbore? wow.

[Haltech]

Originally Posted by MazdaSpeedSix What's up guys, I tried figuring out a few things but haven't had much luck yet. Seeing if you could help. I recently built my motor, it is fully forged, .20+ bore port and polished head, manifolds and throttle body. I assembled everything, put it in and my Air/fuel went to 17.0-19.00 running very rough. Any suggestions? Ill be hooking up my access tuner tonight to see what's up but seeing if you might have an idea. I'm not even driving it due to such a rough condition. No cel lights by the way. Mod list is quite a big one but it has all supporting mods done including CPe pump and halo injector seals. ahead of time!

.020 over, big mistake without sleeving it.

Have you checked the same copper ground cable that gave silverpain a shitload of problems?

[btstarcher]

A list of mods sure would help....or is it a secret?

[madspd6]

+0.020 i don't think would cause that much of a problem if he is not going for huge power. i remember seeing street unit or someone selling +0.040 pistons, that would be worrying. almost no material left between cylinders.

[btstarcher]

I sure hope not, I'm going .020 over...hey I wonder who's doing the headwork?

[Importfan12]

Originally Posted by MazdaSpeedSix What's up guys, I tried figuring out a few things but haven't had much luck yet. Seeing if you could help. I recently built my motor, it is fully forged, .20+ bore port and polished head, manifolds and throttle body. I assembled everything, put it in and my Air/fuel went to 17.0-19.00 running very rough. Any suggestions? Ill be hooking up my access tuner tonight to see what's up but seeing if you might have an idea. I'm not even driving it due to such a rough condition. No cel lights by the way. Mod list is quite a big one but it has all supporting mods done including CPe pump and halo injector seals. ahead of time!

I just finished doing the same thing with my Speed6 and I am having the same problem

[silvapain]

Could be a vacuum leak, a fuel delivery issue, or a bad WBO2. Places to start:

1. Check for a vacuum leak by doing a boost leak test and visually inspecting all lines in the vacuum system.

2. Check fuel pressure at the rail via the ECU PID.

3. Check for an exhaust leak.

4. Check your plugs for signs of fouling. A misfiring plug can actually make the wideband read lean, not rich.

5. Check all your grounds. There is one on the PMM, a couple on the slave cylinder bracket, and one on the bracket up by the HPFP.


Tapadatass

[MazdaSpeedSix]

Hey guys I'm sorry it took me a second to post. The mods are:
CPe fuel pump
3" turbo back exhaust
CPe downpipe
Ported/polished head, intake manifold, throttle body, exhaust manifold
Wiesco pistons (9:1 compression, .020 bore)
Pauter rods
Arp main studs/ head studs
All mew gaskets
New timing tensioner
Timing chain
Oil pump strainer
Block
Bs delete
JB oil baffle
One step colder ngk plugs
Accessport custom tune
3 prosport digital gauges (afr boost voltage)
Crankshaft optimized
There are many more but I'm spacing them. If you have any questions let me know. And also another question. When the car starts up it sounds normal once it's warmed up it starts having a loud tick that wasn't there before. Just barely started recently. Car drives fine, flies like a jet!

FMIC sitting in the garage ready to be put on with the gtx3071r.

[btstarcher]

It's funny because you have a built motor but stock intake...

[aviator79]

Still have EGR? did you install TIGs? This was my fail as EGR tube was not tight and had a massive vac leak and would not stay running. Blocked off EGR and was all set.

[MazdaSpeedSix]

Intake is a 3" Sri. EGR Is blocked off and code delete with the accessport lol. Now there is that annoying lifter knock/ tick that's very loud once the engine heats up. Any ideas? This just randomly started doing this out of no where.

[Tomas]

hmm. Did anyone check valve clearance for your built motor?

[MazdaSpeedSix]

Everything was checked. Could it possibly be because I was driving it (no wot) while at 18-19.0 afr? Also on the freeway as I'm in 6th gear while going 75 I'm steady at 3k rpms. I don't know if I just forgot how it was before I blew it or if I'm just being paranoid. But is that normal? Btw there is a stage 3 spec clutch kit on there as well.

[btstarcher]

Were there any problems with your MAF calibration?

[ms3blackmica]

For the sake that you put this into the ECU Computer tuning section, i have to ask...

Is your map scaled for the 3" Intake ???

You said accessport custom tune, who tuned it?

[Tokay444]

Find the source of the ticking.
I'm betting it's cdfp or injectors.

[MazdaSpeedSix]

It sounds like timing chain slapping up against something. It's coming from the top valve cover and timing cover. And the map is tuned by me to work with all mods.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by MazdaSpeedSix It sounds like timing chain slapping up against something. It's coming from the top valve cover and timing cover. And the map is tuned by me to work with all mods.

Did you scale the MAF curve for the 3" intake?

If so, how ?

Also, what are your fuel trims at idle? Both STFT and LTFT...

[Tokay444]

Get a stethoscope and figure out EXACTLY what it is.

[MazdaSpeedSix]

I did, it's knocking really bad right underneath the very left of the valve cover, top timing cover more on both sides where the cam gears are.

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica Did you scale the MAF curve for the 3" intake? If so, how ? Also, what are your fuel trims at idle? Both STFT and LTFT...

I took off my 3" intake for now until I get my old gt30 switched out to the new gtx30 ad until I figure out where all my vac leaks are.

[Tokay444]

Timing chain slapping valve cover.
Take the valve cover off and look for scaring.

[silvapain]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Timing chain slapping valve cover. Take the valve cover off and look for scaring.

With a Speed6, he should be able to tell just by pulling the oil cap off and checking with his finger.

[MazdaSpeedSix]

Do I have to pull my motor again?..... :/ or is there any way to remove the top mount and take the timing cover off that way? Because the last thing I want to do is pull the damn motor again... also how tight should it sit? Should there be any play? The car drives just fine and there is no knock so I know that it hasn't slipped a gear. What do you guys recommend trying?

[Tokay444]

Not the timing cover. The valve cover.

[MazdaSpeedSix]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Not the timing cover. The valve cover.

I know the valve cover has to be removed to really see how loose that chain is, it's loose. But to fix/replace all timing components i have to remove the timing cover. can I remove the timing cover without dropping the engine again? That's what I am really worried about.

[Tokay444]

Yes. You can.
Follow the tsb to check for a bad vvt. That will show you how much slack should be in or chain also. Just sticking your finger in the oil fill hole and tugging on the chain is no a definitive method of checking.

[MazdaSpeedSix]

The slack is a good one. It should be nice and tight shouldn't it?

[Tokay444]

With cylinder one at tdc it should be.
Donate brownie faggot.

[jm211]

yea, it'll goes from snug-no movement to, idk 2mm?

[Tokay444]

Lol. Try half an inch.

[MazdaSpeedSix]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 With cylinder one at tdc it should be. Donate brownie faggot.

I will once I get on my computer.

[Tokay444]

atta boy.
we have all the shop and service manuals on here in vip.

[ms3blackmica]

Tokay444 knows his shit.

listen to "everything" he says. even if its gheyyy lol

[Tokay444]

Isn't it all ghey?

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Isn't it all ghey?

Always!

[MazdaSpeedSix]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Yes. You can. Follow the tsb to check for a bad vvt. That will show you how much slack should be in or chain also. Just sticking your finger in the oil fill hole and tugging on the chain is no a definitive method of checking.

Thank you! Found my problem and know exactly what I need to replace. Looks like ima dig into the engine again tomorrow. Any advice while I have the cover off?

[Tokay444]

so, what's the problem.

[ms3blackmica]

Yeah for real..

what was the problem? lol