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 Old 10-29-2012, 03:31 AM   #41
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Dude forgot the donate mod.
Duh.
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 Old 10-29-2012, 01:38 PM   #42
 
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Timing chain was stretched and VCR actuator clip broken. Since timing didn't jump I should worry bout pulling off my head and checking for bent valves should I?
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 Old 10-29-2012, 02:11 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaSpeedSix View Post
Timing chain was stretched and VCR actuator clip broken. Since timing didn't jump I should worry bout pulling off my head and checking for bent valves should I?
No need to pull the head; perform a compression and leakdown test on all cylinders after replacing the timing chain.


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 Old 10-30-2012, 10:19 PM   #44
 
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Ok, so I got my timing chain and actuator replaced and I got everything back together. Cranks but won't start, I know timing isn't an issue. Ill check fuel and spark tomorrow I'm almost positive that one of the harness connectors is wet with oil/antifreeze and is causing me this pain in the ass.
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 Old 10-31-2012, 03:03 AM   #45
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Since you're down there to do the timing chain and tensioner anyway, I'm guessing in the ignition timing sensor at the crank pulley.
You replaced all three diamond washers between the crank gears for the timing chain and oil pump chain, right?
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 Old 10-31-2012, 06:50 AM   #46
 
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Did you retime the crank sensor when you set timing? If that sensor is out of time the car either won't start, or will run really rough.

Also, check all grounds. A loose ground wire fucked me for several days.


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 Old 10-31-2012, 12:01 PM   #47
 
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All three washers were changed out. Everything torqued to spec. And no I didn't setup the crank pulley position sensor. I didn't do it when I threw in the engine so I thought that's not necessary. How is that done?
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 Old 10-31-2012, 12:36 PM   #48
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaSpeedSix View Post
All three washers were changed out. Everything torqued to spec. And no I didn't setup the crank pulley position sensor. I didn't do it when I threw in the engine so I thought that's not necessary. How is that done?
The procedure for aligning the CKP (crankshaft position sensor) is located on page 1230 of the MS3 factory manual. I don't know what page it is on in the MS6 manual, but the procedure is the same. Basically, you lock the crank at #1 TDC and align the CKP so that it is centered over the 20th tooth from the gap in the reluctor wheel on the crank pulley.
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 Old 10-31-2012, 02:18 PM   #49
 
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Ill try that out, thank you. Does it all really depend on that sensor? And does it have to be 20 teeth left or right of the gap?
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 Old 10-31-2012, 02:26 PM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaSpeedSix View Post
Ill try that out, thank you. Does it all really depend on that sensor? And does it have to be 20 teeth left or right of the gap?
The CKP is offset CCW from the 12 O'clock position, so it's the 20th tooth CCW from the gap. It will make sense when you look at the manual, as there's a picture, and you can only count one direction for it to work.
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 Old 10-31-2012, 02:52 PM   #51
 
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This might just be why my car cranks but won't start. In the process of removing the belt, pulley and turning it to the right position.
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 Old 10-31-2012, 03:05 PM   #52
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Wait, removing what pulley?
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 Old 10-31-2012, 03:26 PM   #53
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
Wait, removing what pulley?
The crankshaft pulley, so I can set it while its at tdc. Because the way it was on there it wouldn't work.
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 Old 10-31-2012, 03:28 PM   #54
 
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Rut....Rho....Raggy
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 Old 10-31-2012, 03:28 PM   #55
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You're going to need new diamond washers. And you need to lock the motor down with cylinder 1 at tdc again.
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 Old 10-31-2012, 04:52 PM   #56
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaSpeedSix View Post
The crankshaft pulley, so I can set it while its at tdc. Because the way it was on there it wouldn't work.
Huh? You need to read the manual. There is a detailed description on how to time the engine and align the CKP. DO NOT UNBOLT A THING UNTIL YOU READ AND FULLY UNDERSTAND HOW TO TIME YOUR ENGINE PROPERLY.

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 Old 10-31-2012, 05:02 PM   #57
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the CPS only has so much play, if its off it will just show your timing as more advanced or retarted then it actually is. it wont prevent your car from starting and it wont cause any physical harm if its not right. of course you want to get it as close as possible to what the manual says (centered over that tooth) but dont kill yourself over it.
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Originally Posted by MazdaSpeedSix View Post
The crankshaft pulley, so I can set it while its at tdc. Because the way it was on there it wouldn't work.
If you loosen the crank pulley you're pulling the timing cover AGAIN and retiming the whole engine.. No key ways man!!!
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 Old 10-31-2012, 05:07 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
the CPS only has so much play, if its off it will just show your timing as more advanced or retarted then it actually is. it wont prevent your car from starting and it wont cause any physical harm if its not right. of course you want to get it as close as possible to what the manual says (centered over that tooth) but dont kill yourself over it.
If he didn't time the pulley when he put the timing cover back on, it's going to be a lot more than a few degrees off.
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 Old 10-31-2012, 05:10 PM   #60
 
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Originally Posted by timjs View Post
If you loosen the crank pulley you're pulling the timing cover AGAIN and retiming the whole engine.. No key ways man!!!
Why is that? I loosened up the bolt to move it slightly to align to the sensor all new washers were installed with actuator and chain.
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 Old 10-31-2012, 05:12 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
If he didn't time the pulley when he put the timing cover back on, it's going to be a lot more than a few degrees off.
correct, this is all assuming your mechanically timed right haha
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 Old 10-31-2012, 05:15 PM   #62
 
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I did correct timing by getting cams parallel and c1 on tdc all I did was remove the pulley bolt one turn while it was at tdc and moved the pulley half an inch to correct position.
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 Old 10-31-2012, 05:29 PM   #63
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how did you lock the cams? crank?
you need to replace the diamond washers again. and the crank bolt.
they are one time use.
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 Old 10-31-2012, 05:38 PM   #64
 
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Originally Posted by MazdaSpeedSix View Post
Why is that? I loosened up the bolt to move it slightly to align to the sensor all new washers were installed with actuator and chain.
This could ONLY work if you were lucky enough that the cams were in a "neutral" position where there is no spring tension causing them to tug at the chain.
As soon as the crank is loosened, the cams are free to spin because the crank sprocket is no longer locked to the crankshaft.

Your world is all fucked now.
You need to retime the engine, WITH the SSTs. WITH new washers and a new crank pulley bolt as suggested above, and pray you don't bend any valves spinning the parts back into position.
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 Old 11-01-2012, 04:35 PM   #65
 
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So I found my leak, it's going from the transmission hole from what I can tell. Oil pan? Rear main seal possibly? I used a new seal when I built the engine. Was there any special way to install those? I think I'm going to pull the engine again and triple check all the work, this time with the service Manuel.
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 Old 11-01-2012, 05:41 PM   #66
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dude!
you need to donate, and you the engine rebuild manual.
this is painful.
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 Old 11-01-2012, 06:21 PM   #67
 
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Haha well I put ultra black rtv and sealed all recommended parts, I guess I missed a spot. Ill donate ASAP! And looks like I'm dropping the engine again. . :/
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 Old 11-01-2012, 06:23 PM   #68
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There's an sst for setting the rear main seal.
It should have come with it.
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