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Timing chain was stretched and VCR actuator clip broken. Since timing didn't jump I should worry bout pulling off my head and checking for bent valves should I?
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Tapadatass
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Ok, so I got my timing chain and actuator replaced and I got everything back together. Cranks but won't start, I know timing isn't an issue. Ill check fuel and spark tomorrow I'm almost positive that one of the harness connectors is wet with oil/antifreeze and is causing me this pain in the ass.
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Since you're down there to do the timing chain and tensioner anyway, I'm guessing in the ignition timing sensor at the crank pulley. You replaced all three diamond washers between the crank gears for the timing chain and oil pump chain, right?
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Did you retime the crank sensor when you set timing? If that sensor is out of time the car either won't start, or will run really rough. Also, check all grounds. A loose ground wire fucked me for several days. Tapadatass
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All three washers were changed out. Everything torqued to spec. And no I didn't setup the crank pulley position sensor. I didn't do it when I threw in the engine so I thought that's not necessary. How is that done?
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Ill try that out, thank you. Does it all really depend on that sensor? And does it have to be 20 teeth left or right of the gap?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The CKP is offset CCW from the 12 O'clock position, so it's the 20th tooth CCW from the gap. It will make sense when you look at the manual, as there's a picture, and you can only count one direction for it to work.
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This might just be why my car cranks but won't start. In the process of removing the belt, pulley and turning it to the right position.
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Wait, removing what pulley?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The crankshaft pulley, so I can set it while its at tdc. Because the way it was on there it wouldn't work.
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Rut....Rho....Raggy
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You're going to need new diamond washers. And you need to lock the motor down with cylinder 1 at tdc again.
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Serious couch fucking can ensue if you fuck it up. Tapadatass
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the CPS only has so much play, if its off it will just show your timing as more advanced or retarted then it actually is. it wont prevent your car from starting and it wont cause any physical harm if its not right. of course you want to get it as close as possible to what the manual says (centered over that tooth) but dont kill yourself over it.
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__________________ ![]() ![]() Tokay Racing BeCuse Seals. BeCuse you need these. Demodded. Mwho? | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Why is that? I loosened up the bolt to move it slightly to align to the sensor all new washers were installed with actuator and chain.
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__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 GT Black Mica #4126 KILLAH Built/SPEED PERF6RMANC3 (SP) 10.6:1 Pistons ~ SP 11mm H11 Head Studs ~ K1 rods ~ SP CNC Head Work ~ Web Cams w/Tomas Grind ~ GTX35R w/Tial .82AR Hotside ~ JMF IM w/1000cc PI Injectors ~ SP 75mm TB ~ Squash Performance In-Tank FP w/Dual DW300's ~ AEM FPR ~ SP Custom PI Fuel kit ~ CPE 4" MAF ~ CPE SAFEseals ~ TR1035 FMIC ~ CPE Atmosphere DP/Ex Manifold ~ Tial MV-R EWG VTA'd ~ Denso ITV-24's ~ CPE Dual CBE ~ CPE BT TIP ~ CPE RMM ~ JBR TMM ~ TTFMM ~ CPE RDM ~ Sonic Tuning CO's ~ LED Tails ~ Sonic Tuning HID's ~ Whiteline RSB ~ ACT 6 Puck w/unicorn dust 510awhp/473awtq ~ 11.30@125.5 1.730 60' 3455 lbs WWW.SONICTUNING.COM Certified RichTune e-Tuner KILLAH BUILT by SPEED PERF6RMANC3 |
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I did correct timing by getting cams parallel and c1 on tdc all I did was remove the pulley bolt one turn while it was at tdc and moved the pulley half an inch to correct position.
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how did you lock the cams? crank? you need to replace the diamond washers again. and the crank bolt. they are one time use.
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As soon as the crank is loosened, the cams are free to spin because the crank sprocket is no longer locked to the crankshaft. Your world is all fucked now. You need to retime the engine, WITH the SSTs. WITH new washers and a new crank pulley bolt as suggested above, and pray you don't bend any valves spinning the parts back into position. | |
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So I found my leak, it's going from the transmission hole from what I can tell. Oil pan? Rear main seal possibly? I used a new seal when I built the engine. Was there any special way to install those? I think I'm going to pull the engine again and triple check all the work, this time with the service Manuel.
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dude! you need to donate, and you the engine rebuild manual. this is painful.
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Haha well I put ultra black rtv and sealed all recommended parts, I guess I missed a spot. Ill donate ASAP! And looks like I'm dropping the engine again. . :/
__________________ 06 MazdaSpeed6 Stage 3+ Pauter Rods - Wiseco Pistons - CPE Fuel Pump - Cryotreated transmission internals - SU BSD - JB Baffle - ACT Stage 3 clutch system - ARP Head and Main studs - Cometic Head gasket - Dreadnaught Mount - SURE RMM - NGK One step colder plugs - 3.5" Intake - GTX3071r - CXracing custom FMIC - Accessport custom tune - 3 bar MAP sensor - Grimmspeed Boost controller - Prosport Evo digital gauge setup Boost/Voltage/Oil Pressure - |
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| (Toe-kay) ![]() Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Oakville Ontario Canada
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There's an sst for setting the rear main seal. It should have come with it.
__________________ ![]() ![]() Tokay Racing BeCuse Seals. BeCuse you need these. Demodded. Mwho? |
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