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 Old 06-12-2009, 08:55 AM   #1
 
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Default Help...I have 1 day left!!!!

Ok guys, I am getting ready to go to deals gap this weekend and I still don't have my car running properly. Here is the problem: I am running the ATP 3in MAF sensor with the Standback. Now since the ATP sends a false reading that doesn't correspond correctly with the Standback. This in theory makes the car lean out.

So I need to add fuel to the car in certain rpm ranges..(Remember I have no tuning experience whatsoever.) How do I add fuel? How much fuel do I add? Should I add fuel to the whole powerband? Do I need to adjust timing if I add fuel?
ANY help is appreciated. I need this running right TODAY.
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 Old 06-12-2009, 09:14 AM   #2
 
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from my understanding you need to scale you MAF. Adding a generic amount of fuel across the board won't help. Sorry I can't be of more assistance.

ps: I hope you make it to the dragon. I was trying to get there 6 years ago with my cousin in my 300zx but we broke down in Summersville West Virgina. Spent the extra long weekend stuck in a hotel room throwing cards into a hat. UPS showed up on Monday with the part and we bolted for the border... I still want to go someday.
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 Old 06-12-2009, 09:17 AM   #3
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well. start with two logs and post them up. do two third gear pulls from like 3k up to whatever you want, but high enough to help us help you.
post your maf tables from the sb app

Originally Posted by phantom3 View Post
from my understanding you need to scale you MAF. Adding a generic amount of fuel across the board won't help. Sorry I can't be of more assistance.

ps: I hope you make it to the dragon. I was trying to get there 6 years ago with my cousin in my 300zx but we broke down in Summersville West Virgina. Spent the extra long weekend stuck in a hotel room throwing cards into a hat. UPS showed up on Monday with the part and we bolted for the border... I still want to go someday.
assumptions mean you think he has atr. op has a sb, unfortunately, there's no maf calibration. just a maf table and a maf transfer
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 Old 06-12-2009, 09:21 AM   #4
 
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apologies
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 Old 06-12-2009, 09:24 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by phantom3 View Post
from my understanding you need to scale you MAF. Adding a generic amount of fuel across the board won't help. Sorry I can't be of more assistance.

ps: I hope you make it to the dragon. I was trying to get there 6 years ago with my cousin in my 300zx but we broke down in Summersville West Virgina. Spent the extra long weekend stuck in a hotel room throwing cards into a hat. UPS showed up on Monday with the part and we bolted for the border... I still want to go someday.
Sucks you didn't make it to the dragon man. I have been there probably about 5 times already. It is a blast, the main reason I want to make it to this meet is because I have been out of the game for so long and this is a huge mazda meet.

Philly, I was thinking about using the dashhawk because I don't have a laptop to hook to the car while driving. will the standback record without a computer attached?? just put it in "record" mode or something??
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 Old 06-12-2009, 09:24 AM   #6
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accepted i suppose. op, i'll be in and out of shout all day
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 Old 06-12-2009, 11:38 AM   #7
 
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Ok, This is the first one. I will be going out to do some more shortly. It is only at 12-13 psi because I started a run before this and started to pull past 22. So i turned my greddy EBC WAAY down.
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 Old 06-12-2009, 12:10 PM   #8
 
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here is another...
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 Old 06-12-2009, 12:16 PM   #9
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aight hang on. i'm still on a phone call. what you want to do is take the red line and drag it across the graph. when you see afr at 11.5, look at the rpm, and then go to the maf table and adjust the cell for that rpm. you'll probably adjust for 3.1 up to 5.0. if it's 11.5 and you're aiming for 12.0 i would start just by typing -1 into those cells and see where that gets you. if it's too lean, then you don't need to pull that much fuel. so instead of -1, you can change it to -.5. adjust accordingly
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 Old 06-12-2009, 01:29 PM   #10
 
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ok so it looks like im going lean from 2500rpm to 4500rpm. I am hovering around 14.5AFR then it starts tapering down. so should i add fuel for that whole rpm range???
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 Old 06-12-2009, 02:08 PM   #11
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that's still closed loop probably, so you can try
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 Old 06-12-2009, 04:28 PM   #12
 
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People taking tuning avice from philly...

Isn't that one of the signs of the apocalypse?
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 Old 06-12-2009, 05:10 PM   #13
 
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ok I added a little fuel between the 2500-4600rpm range and that brought my AFR down to the 13's at least but now I seem to be loosing boost real bad after 4500rpm. so I'm gonna take it apart and hook up that boost leak tester again. any other hints. help please!!!!
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 Old 06-12-2009, 05:56 PM   #14
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so at the top, start there and go backwards, i actually think that's easier.
so at 6k or whatever, look at your afr. looks like it's in the 10's, so you'll be putting negative numbers in the maf table. start with -1 or -2, it'll be more than that probably, but start small and take more logs and make more adjustments. but go from 6k and work your way down. look at the sb tables, and look at the rpm increments/values they use. use that, look at the log, adjust table accordingly. repeat
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 Old 06-13-2009, 07:31 AM   #15
 
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Any idea how the op made out with this?
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 Old 06-14-2009, 06:16 PM   #16
 
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fyi even though its considered "closed loop" still, you can start throwing fuel down at 1.7volts and about 2800rpm, since these cars run lean part throttle. If you are seeing afr's in the 13's while down low at spool, you should put 5's or 6's into those tables to start off. I add fuel up to 8% down low in some spots, and up top I gradually pull it out-took -3.5 for me to get my car from the 10's and occasional 9's to a solid 11.3ish. Any knock you see consistently pull 2 degrees in that zone to start, just remember timing affects the AFR, and more will lean you out and vice versa
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 Old 06-14-2009, 06:23 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by spiker98 View Post
I seem to be loosing boost real bad after 4500rpm. so I'm gonna take it apart and hook up that boost leak tester again. any other hints. help please!!!!
what are you using for your boost control, are you using the PID's or are you using the table for boost? I dont know your mods but most cars boost will taper off up top. on my boost table I start with 16psi down low (so I dont load up the motor early) and by 5k rpm I am commanding 19psi-which ends up being about 18 or 17 by redline. this little k04 turbo cant put out that much air so dont expect a solid boost held untill redline.
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 Old 07-12-2009, 03:30 PM   #18
 
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Ok, here is another go at it today...

What the fuck is wrong with my boost pressure? Inside the car I was reading 14-15psi up to where i let off at about 6000 but on the dashhawk it says at 4000 I drop down to about 6psi where i stay until i let off... is this something happening that I can't see from my boost controller/boost gauge?? is the dashhawk wrong?

I know my AF ratios are still very high but i am changing them little by little.. Right now i am only changing 1% at a time...is this gonna take forever?
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 Old 07-12-2009, 03:46 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by spiker98 View Post
Ok, here is another go at it today...

What the fuck is wrong with my boost pressure? Inside the car I was reading 14-15psi up to where i let off at about 6000 but on the dashhawk it says at 4000 I drop down to about 6psi where i stay until i let off... is this something happening that I can't see from my boost controller/boost gauge?? is the dashhawk wrong?

I know my AF ratios are still very high but i am changing them little by little.. Right now i am only changing 1% at a time...is this gonna take forever?
Did you get the MAF configured yet???

OK, philly said obove that there isn't a MAF calibration??? Then he says there's a MAF table and MAF transfer... those are the MAF calibration tables... so I'm kinda confused by his post. Are those tables not edit-able in the SB??? Post screen shots of those tables for me (stock and modified both if you can/did edit them).

Basicaly, with the 3" MAF, you will need to compare idle/load with the stock MAF to the same idle/load values with the 3" MAF to scale it in. With these cars, the MAF and MAP are used to calculate load and therefore boost cut. If your MAF tables are off, you will throw the SB limits off of what they are programmed for... in essence lying to the stock PCM with the SB, but lying to the SB with the wrong MAF and MAF tables...
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 Old 07-12-2009, 04:00 PM   #20
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i just meant with atr there is literally some shit called maf calibration, right?
with sb it's really really really simple.
nonetheless, the dh is reading his clipped boost cause that's how sb ninjas roll
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 Old 07-13-2009, 11:04 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by phaillyb View Post
nonetheless, the dh is reading his clipped boost cause that's how sb ninjas roll
DH should read a max boost signal of what ever the map clamp is set to though, not 6 PSI. My DashDaq reads 15.8 PSI max when actual is 15.8 PSI or 21 PSI. Does the SB not use a normal map clamp design?
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 Old 07-13-2009, 11:37 AM   #22
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if you set the clip to 6 psi, you will see a flat line once you go beyond 6psi. is that what you mean?
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 Old 07-14-2009, 08:29 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by phaillyb View Post
if you set the clip to 6 psi, you will see a flat line once you go beyond 6psi. is that what you mean?
Why would you clip it at 6 PSI? But yes, if you set a MAP clamp device to read nothing higher than the voltage for 6 PSI, that's all you would read on your DH or DD. That's obviously not what is happening here because he does read to 12-14 PSI, then it falls. Clipping the signal with a clamp wouldn't do that.
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 Old 07-14-2009, 08:33 AM   #24
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ahhh, i didn't really read his bump. i thought that's what he was saying. at least that's what it sounded like in the shoutbox.
less pot, more comprehension for me.
lol.
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 Old 07-14-2009, 08:33 AM   #25
 
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philly can tune my ride anyday!
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