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 Old 10-26-2012, 04:27 AM   #1
 
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Default Isses with OTS and AP (Updated firmware)

Ok so I updated the firmware on the AP we got from another member on here, last night. Loaded up the OTS maps from Cobb for stage 1 and 2, both 91 and 93 octane. Hopped in the car last night to flash the ECU and first off it tells me the car is already tuned. Before the flash last night at idle I was sitting at 12.5 AFR, and after the flash that went up to 14.5... So that was good, car was always smelling really rich at idle before.

I was REALLY pleased with the change in power it had from whatever "flash" it had on it when we bought it to the stage 2 OTS CS 93 octane. Didn't like the fact the BOV was really hard to hear now, but man does it move. My question is, why am I still throwing the "Engine Overboost" code? How can I disable that? And how can I make some more sound come from the BOV?

I can run some logs today if anyone is interested in seeing what's going on here. Thanks guys.
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 Old 10-26-2012, 04:28 AM   #2
 
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 Old 10-26-2012, 07:47 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by TrePaul86 View Post
Ok so I updated the firmware on the AP we got from another member on here, last night. Loaded up the OTS maps from Cobb for stage 1 and 2, both 91 and 93 octane. Hopped in the car last night to flash the ECU and first off it tells me the car is already tuned. Before the flash last night at idle I was sitting at 12.5 AFR, and after the flash that went up to 14.5... So that was good, car was always smelling really rich at idle before.

I was REALLY pleased with the change in power it had from whatever "flash" it had on it when we bought it to the stage 2 OTS CS 93 octane. Didn't like the fact the BOV was really hard to hear now, but man does it move. My question is, why am I still throwing the "Engine Overboost" code? How can I disable that? And how can I make some more sound come from the BOV?

I can run some logs today if anyone is interested in seeing what's going on here. Thanks guys.
Post up some logs. We can't validate anything until you do that.

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 Old 10-26-2012, 09:47 AM   #4
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logs please
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 Old 10-26-2012, 11:27 AM   #5
 
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I will as soon as I leave work.... 3rd gear pulls? Cuz it throws that code in any gear WOT, as the RPM's climb. Doesn't display in dash as CEL, just dormant in the ECU.
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 Old 10-26-2012, 12:44 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by TrePaul86 View Post
I will as soon as I leave work.... 3rd gear pulls? Cuz it throws that code in any gear WOT, as the RPM's climb. Doesn't display in dash as CEL, just dormant in the ECU.
Truthfully... One log in closed loop to see some of of your trims. Be careful with the WOT if you are having overboost issues.

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 Old 10-26-2012, 01:33 PM   #7
 
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Ok, I'll get on it soon. Thanks David.
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 Old 10-26-2012, 05:32 PM   #8
 
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Ok so I took a log. Wasn't sure exactly what I was doing so I hope I did that right. I was able to get it to throw the Overboost code (making the car hesitate hard), as well as regular driving and a 3rd gear 3k pull to 6500....

Please let me know what's going on here, I really appreciate it guys.
Attached Files
File Type: csv datalog3.csv (117.2 KB, 19 views)
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 Old 10-26-2012, 07:06 PM   #9
 
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I apologize for the shity log. LOL, I'm gonna head out in a bit and I'll pull another one, a much shorter one for you guys to see what's happening. I guess the one I posted shows idle and daily driving lol
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 Old 10-26-2012, 08:24 PM   #10
 
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Wow, the boost is going crazy. It spikes to 21 psi and suddenly drops to 15, then back to 19, It should be even. On stock maps is not unusual to spike but yours is a little bit different. AFRs are very very lean, you are running 13s, high 12s most of the time, combined with some high bats, ends up with KR.

BTW, is this the stage 1 or 2 map?
I would strongly suggest self tune or an e-tune.
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 Old 10-26-2012, 10:44 PM   #11
 
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Ok here's a better log for you guys. Hits overboost code (cutout). 3rd gear 3k start to almost redline and then let off. That's data log 4... This log btw is WOT.

Data log 5 I was hoping you'd be able to pick up a slight hesitation in 3rd gear until I let off to shift, but I'm not sure this log is gonna show it. Of course the next light when I wasn't logging, it did it.... I still have yet to change the plugs on this and I plan to do a lil seafoam action on the current plugs, then install the new Denso plugs. Only thing I can think of is the set screw on the BOV is backed way out.... Would that have anything to do with it?

And to answer your question I'm running the Cobb Stage 2 OTS (93 Octane) for CorkSport parts, running a ETS TMIC and Autotech CDFP internals. CS TIP, CS catless DP, CS CB-e, CS CAI and a knock off greddy BOV (Our options are limited cuz the previous owner welded the greddy flange to the manifold. What a moron).

Oh, and for the DTC's.... Here's what it threw while logging:

PCM - P0234
IC - U1900

Hope I provided everything I need to get this stuff figured out. Just seems like we're having issue after issue since we bought it. Can't even fully enjoy it yet

Attached Files
File Type: csv datalog4.csv (2.2 KB, 5 views)
File Type: csv datalog5.csv (4.1 KB, 1 views)
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 Old 10-26-2012, 10:46 PM   #12
 
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Picture of the codes it threw

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1351316807.439620.jpg
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 Old 10-27-2012, 11:58 AM   #13
 
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This log was taken this morning.... After another member told me to try out the 91 Octane stage 2 map since 93-93 octane isn't offered in Oregon.

I'm going to email cobb right now and ask for ATR (also been told by another member to ask them for it).
Attached Files
File Type: csv datalog6.csv (2.7 KB, 7 views)
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 Old 10-27-2012, 07:44 PM   #14
 
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About the overboosting, I think, not at home to check ATR, on stage2 OTS map you are suppose to be around 18,7~ psi. On certain spots your at 21psi. There is a fuel cut map that will cut fuel if over X amount of boost is reached. That might be the issues with your overboosting.

Just get ATR and start reading some guides. Even if you do not squeze much HP from your car, at least you can smooth many things.
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 Old 10-28-2012, 12:37 PM   #15
 
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Speeden6 told me to contact Cobb and ask for ATR, so I'm just waiting for a response from them. Really sucks having the power there, then having it cut out mid power band.... Can't even really have fun with it.
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Interior: CS door LEDs, CS map LED's, STRI boost gauge, A-Pillar sound bar, 4ch amp powering Focal components, Fosgate 2ch sub amp, JBR knob.

Engine: Cobb AP (Modified Stage 2 OTS for now) CS intake, CS MAF, CS TIP, CS 3" catless downpipe to CS TBE, ETS TMIC, Autotech HPFP, Denso plugs.

Suspension - CS Front Strut Bar, AutoEXE Rear Strut Bar, Lowered on Eibach's, RMM, TMM, CS Front Sway Bar
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 Old 10-28-2012, 02:34 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by TrePaul86 View Post
Speeden6 told me to contact Cobb and ask for ATR, so I'm just waiting for a response from them. Really sucks having the power there, then having it cut out mid power band.... Can't even really have fun with it.
You don't actually contact them for it..

You go to this link and request it electronically. All you need is your AP serial # which is on the back of your AP and fill out the remainder of the questions/information.

It says you will recieve a download link in 24 hrs but it usually comes in about 30 minutes.


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 Old 10-28-2012, 02:55 PM   #17
 
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i was having overboost issues as well on ots stage 2...this might be a shocker to hear but custom tune ftw.
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 Old 10-28-2012, 03:12 PM   #18
 
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$$$$$$$$$$.... Wish I could right now, but we just had to drop $1k into the stereo to bypass all that factory bullshit.... Long story, but it was necessary....
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Interior: CS door LEDs, CS map LED's, STRI boost gauge, A-Pillar sound bar, 4ch amp powering Focal components, Fosgate 2ch sub amp, JBR knob.

Engine: Cobb AP (Modified Stage 2 OTS for now) CS intake, CS MAF, CS TIP, CS 3" catless downpipe to CS TBE, ETS TMIC, Autotech HPFP, Denso plugs.

Suspension - CS Front Strut Bar, AutoEXE Rear Strut Bar, Lowered on Eibach's, RMM, TMM, CS Front Sway Bar
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 Old 10-28-2012, 03:23 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by TrePaul86 View Post
$$$$$$$$$$.... Wish I could right now, but we just had to drop $1k into the stereo to bypass all that factory bullshit.... Long story, but it was necessary....
I know that game....but a few hundred bucks can save you a few thousand if ya know what i mean.
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 Old 10-28-2012, 05:12 PM   #20
 
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Ok so I was able to get ATR downloaded and installed.... And loaded the stage 2 map into the program, but what do I do now? The power was awesome with that OTS map, just need that overboost "surge/cut-off" to not happen so we can enjoy the car finally!
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06 MS6 - Sport LP Silver

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Interior: CS door LEDs, CS map LED's, STRI boost gauge, A-Pillar sound bar, 4ch amp powering Focal components, Fosgate 2ch sub amp, JBR knob.

Engine: Cobb AP (Modified Stage 2 OTS for now) CS intake, CS MAF, CS TIP, CS 3" catless downpipe to CS TBE, ETS TMIC, Autotech HPFP, Denso plugs.

Suspension - CS Front Strut Bar, AutoEXE Rear Strut Bar, Lowered on Eibach's, RMM, TMM, CS Front Sway Bar
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 Old 10-28-2012, 05:21 PM   #21
 
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Afr's in the 12's and 21 psi, I'm sure the power was awesome. Your engine is going to get a few windows added to it if you keep going wot. I would first and foremost try find a local modder in your states nator and see if someone experienced can check over your setup and help. Personally I would say put a stage 1 tune in it for now.
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 Old 10-28-2012, 05:47 PM   #22
 
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That's what I don't understand.... Everything looks like it was put on by CS. It's got CS everything... (TIP, CAI, catless DP, CBE, ETS TMIC, knock off Greddy BOV - not by choice) All the way to the LED fog light kit and their LED interior and exterior lighting.... And now that we have the AP, I was hoping this was all going to be solved...

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Exterior: Thule roof racks, CS LED Foglight kit, CS LED DRL, CS LP LED tag lights, 20% tint, JBR SSP.

Interior: CS door LEDs, CS map LED's, STRI boost gauge, A-Pillar sound bar, 4ch amp powering Focal components, Fosgate 2ch sub amp, JBR knob.

Engine: Cobb AP (Modified Stage 2 OTS for now) CS intake, CS MAF, CS TIP, CS 3" catless downpipe to CS TBE, ETS TMIC, Autotech HPFP, Denso plugs.

Suspension - CS Front Strut Bar, AutoEXE Rear Strut Bar, Lowered on Eibach's, RMM, TMM, CS Front Sway Bar
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 Old 10-28-2012, 06:56 PM   #23
 
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my car hit 23 psi on stock turbo on the new ones, then got the fuel cut feeling and yes i have a hpfp ..went back to old map
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 Old 10-28-2012, 09:22 PM   #24
 
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Well after I installed ATR and messed around with the stage 2 OTS map with Speeden6.... I think we have it dialed in.... So here's one last log from tonight that I ran after making some adjustments... A lot had to do with WG Duty cycles. After we loaded this map, no surge or cut out, and constant pull the whole time..... Also it doesn't wreak of fuel and fumes at idle at a stop anymore... AFR at idle is about 14.1-14.2.

Let me know what you guys think of this log now...
Attached Files
File Type: csv datalog7.csv (6.5 KB, 8 views)
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06 MS6 - Sport LP Silver

Exterior: Thule roof racks, CS LED Foglight kit, CS LED DRL, CS LP LED tag lights, 20% tint, JBR SSP.

Interior: CS door LEDs, CS map LED's, STRI boost gauge, A-Pillar sound bar, 4ch amp powering Focal components, Fosgate 2ch sub amp, JBR knob.

Engine: Cobb AP (Modified Stage 2 OTS for now) CS intake, CS MAF, CS TIP, CS 3" catless downpipe to CS TBE, ETS TMIC, Autotech HPFP, Denso plugs.

Suspension - CS Front Strut Bar, AutoEXE Rear Strut Bar, Lowered on Eibach's, RMM, TMM, CS Front Sway Bar
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 Old 10-28-2012, 11:06 PM   #25
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Your AFR looks a lot better now.

You were chillin around ~12.5-~12.7 before which is certainlly too lean for pump gas.

Also your AFR at idle should be 14.6-14.8. Check for leaks
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 Old 10-29-2012, 07:11 AM   #26
 
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I'll have to check again tonight, maybe I misread it... But with the OTS by itself I was about 14.6-14.7..... When we got the car it was hovering at about 12.5-12.8 at idle....
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Exterior: Thule roof racks, CS LED Foglight kit, CS LED DRL, CS LP LED tag lights, 20% tint, JBR SSP.

Interior: CS door LEDs, CS map LED's, STRI boost gauge, A-Pillar sound bar, 4ch amp powering Focal components, Fosgate 2ch sub amp, JBR knob.

Engine: Cobb AP (Modified Stage 2 OTS for now) CS intake, CS MAF, CS TIP, CS 3" catless downpipe to CS TBE, ETS TMIC, Autotech HPFP, Denso plugs.

Suspension - CS Front Strut Bar, AutoEXE Rear Strut Bar, Lowered on Eibach's, RMM, TMM, CS Front Sway Bar
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 Old 10-29-2012, 08:15 AM   #27
 
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The first map i sent you was just a quick and dirty to get your Overboosting issue taken care of. now we can really start to dial it down, your Boost is very modest in that map, and we can do some tweaking but at least now you can drive it without worry of venting your block.

No KR, low boost, HPFP looks good, AFR needs some tweaking but we will get there. I am by no means a tuner so if you want true POWER go to Lex or atvfreek but I can get it so you can drive and have fun without as much worry. they can get it so you can surprise the hell out of people when they try to race you. Glad we got you dialed in more.

who is the Nator for Oregon anyway! do we have one?
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 Old 10-29-2012, 08:24 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by TrePaul86 View Post
Well after I installed ATR and messed around with the stage 2 OTS map with Speeden6.... I think we have it dialed in.... So here's one last log from tonight that I ran after making some adjustments... A lot had to do with WG Duty cycles. After we loaded this map, no surge or cut out, and constant pull the whole time..... Also it doesn't wreak of fuel and fumes at idle at a stop anymore... AFR at idle is about 14.1-14.2.

Let me know what you guys think of this log now...
1) Your LTFT's are -10 around idle. Which means it is pulling fuel. You have a massive air leak somewhere.

2) log your STFT's and remove a bunch of the unnecessary monitors.

3) Notice how far off your AFR's are a WOT from target. That leak is persistent through Idle and open loop.

Fix your air leaks, and the OTS maps should work as billed.

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 Old 10-29-2012, 08:33 AM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by David@COBB View Post
1)
Fix your air leaks, and the OTS maps should work as billed.

-David@COBB
I have seen many ways to test for boost leaks on FMIC's but have yet to hear / see a way to test a TMIC. anyone chime in on how to test? Cobb Surgline did mine and found 2 leaks, they didnt tell me how they tested though, just said, "We have a unique way".
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 Old 10-29-2012, 08:36 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Speeden6 View Post
I have seen many ways to test for boost leaks on FMIC's but have yet to hear / see a way to test a TMIC. anyone chime in on how to test? Cobb Surgline did mine and found 2 leaks, they didnt tell me how they tested though, just said, "We have a unique way".
Yep. There is a very complicated setup to do the evaporative leakdown test on it. Get the leaks done before driving the car hard.

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 Old 10-29-2012, 09:50 AM   #31
 
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Crazy how you guys can look at some numbers and know there's a good chance there's an air leak somewhere... That's awesome! David, do you know what that would run me to have that tested and fixed?
Lex
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06 MS6 - Sport LP Silver

Exterior: Thule roof racks, CS LED Foglight kit, CS LED DRL, CS LP LED tag lights, 20% tint, JBR SSP.

Interior: CS door LEDs, CS map LED's, STRI boost gauge, A-Pillar sound bar, 4ch amp powering Focal components, Fosgate 2ch sub amp, JBR knob.

Engine: Cobb AP (Modified Stage 2 OTS for now) CS intake, CS MAF, CS TIP, CS 3" catless downpipe to CS TBE, ETS TMIC, Autotech HPFP, Denso plugs.

Suspension - CS Front Strut Bar, AutoEXE Rear Strut Bar, Lowered on Eibach's, RMM, TMM, CS Front Sway Bar

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 Old 11-04-2012, 10:06 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Speeden6 View Post
I have seen many ways to test for boost leaks on FMIC's but have yet to hear / see a way to test a TMIC. anyone chime in on how to test? Cobb Surgline did mine and found 2 leaks, they didnt tell me how they tested though, just said, "We have a unique way".
you can still test a TMIC the same way you do a boost leak test with a FMIC.
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 Old 11-04-2012, 11:06 AM   #33
 
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How' fmic you can unhook the core and pressurize the pipe. Can't do that on a tmic
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 Old 11-04-2012, 11:28 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Speeden6 View Post
How' fmic you can unhook the core and pressurize the pipe. Can't do that on a tmic
take the boost tube off of the throttle body and cap it.

then pressurize from the TIP/intake like you would normally do.
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