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 Old 12-05-2012, 05:57 PM   #1
 
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Default Open Source Tuning for my car

This thread is going to serve as a record of my own tune, a place for tuning discussion (since I have a set up that is different from many other people), and also a place for people who want to tune themselves can go to get some insight.

First off, I should probably talk about my setup. My full build thread can be found here:http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f541/time-roll-big-boys-113593/


Updated 12/5/12

2008 Mazdaspeed 3

Engine:

Bottom End
Wiseco Stage 1 pistons, Stock Bore, Stock Compression
Molnar Technologies Connecting Rods
ARP Head Studs
F2 Balance Shaft Delete
F2 Oil Pan Baffle
NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs

Head
Port Match Runners and Mild Port/Polish
WebCams Camshaft from GroupBuy (More Aggressive)
Crower Valve Springs

Exhaust

DCR Exhaust Manifold with EWG
38mm Tial EWG
3" Catless Downpipe
3" Cobb Catback Exhaust

Turbo

ATP GT3076 (V-Band) The reason I specify that it is an ATP turbo is that I have heard that the CHRA from ATP is different than if I ordered it directly from Garrett.
0.82 AR 3"V-band Turbine Housing
0.60 AR Compressor Housing (Tapped with 1/4"barb for boost feed to Boost Controller)
Grimmspeed Electronic Boost Controller with 1/4" Barb Fittings


Intercooler, Intake, and Boost Lines

2.5" RaceRoots Under the Motor Hot Pipe
CXRacing Bar and Plate Intercooler (28"x8"x3.5" with 2.5" outlets)
2.5" Cold Side Pipe (to be replaced with 3" piping soon)
HKS SSQV on Cold pipe (to be switched to hot pipe soon)
Stock Intake Manifold Port Matched and Polished (VTCS Deleted and EGR has been welded shut)
3.0 BAR Bosch MAP Sensor (will eventually be changed to a 3.5 BAR)
Full 3.5" Aluminum Intake with 3.5" MAF and honeycomb (90* Turn then straight until filter)
3 1/4" holes have been drilled into baffle in valve cover and has been vented to floor
Running MD OCC with Stock PCV (will be blocking off intake manifold and opening block pcv to OCC then Atmosphere)
Boost lines are 4mm silicone lines from Treadstone Performance

Fuel

93 Octane Pump
KMD V2.1 HPFP Internals
Deatschwerks ITFP
(I have 5th port, but it is not installed at this point and will not until I swap my BOV over to the hot pipe)

Data collection/Tuning

MSD Dashhawk
Cobb AccessPort
Innovate Oil Temp/Presure Gauge
GlowShift 30psi Electronic Boost Gauge (Will be changed in time because I will max it out)
GlowShift EGT Gauge (Will be changed in time)
GlowShift Fuel Pressure Gauge(Will be changed in time)

Mounts

Street Unit 2 Piece Design RMM
Street Unit Old Design PMM
Street Unit New Design TMM

Transmission

Stock Clutch
ORIGINAL JBR Short Shift Plate

Wheels/Tires

Enkei RPF1 17x9 +45
Nitto NT-05 255/45R17



Now onto tuning. I like to be very organized while tuning and this is something I suggest to anyone who is tuning a car. I give each new map a separate version number and always keep my old maps. That way, I can always go back to a map if I need to (which you need to do more than you'd think). I also keep a WORD file that has details about all of the changes I make from map to map. That way, I know which map to look back to when I need to and I can also track my changes for possible troubleshooting. I also note the date of each map in that WORD file so that I know when the change was made. My datalogs are also dated and given a short descriptions such as LTFT Tuning (for MAF Calibrations) and 4th Gear Pull (for obvious reasons). If possible, I will also include a temperature that it was outside and any other information that would be important.

I started my motor with a map called Build Motor 1.0 . This map was made from the map for my old motor. I cleared WGDC, lowered boost all the way, retarded timing quite a bit, and richened up my A/F. This was meant to be a safe map to break the car in with. It served its purpose well and I made my future revisions from that.

I had issues in the beginning with a code related to VVT so I made some revisions to tables involving that first. Here are my revisions so far:

v1.1 – 11/4/12
- MAF Calibration
-Shut off codes for VCTS
v1.2 – 11/5/12
-Increased Injector Latency (dwell multiplier) to 1.1
-MAF Calibration
v1.3 – 11/7/12
-Changed VVT Values of 0° and 5° to 10°
v1.4 – 11/8/12
-MAF Calibration
-Raised Idle Speeds Tables A & B to 800rpm
- Raised A/C Idle Speeds Tables A & B to 850rpm
v1.5 – 11/25/12
-MAF Calibration
-Changed A/F to 11.8 on all tables
-Raised Boost and Fuel Cut Tables
v1.6 – 12/4/12
-MAF Calibration
-Lowered Injector Latency (dwell multiplier) to 1.0
-Changed VVT Values of 10° back to 5° and 0°
-Raised Rev Limiter to 7200rpm
-Raised Timing by 2.0°

I have been very busy with buying a house, so tuning isn't my absolute top priority right now. I will be making small tweaks here and there, but I need to wait until my new fittings for the EBCS come in. Once I have that, I can hook it up and start tuning more boost. I am running off the Wastegate Spring at this point.

I will attach my first map and current map along with a datalog taken today. I had to stop early because I came to traffic. I also never cut down my logs because it takes 2 sec to just scroll to where I am looking.


I will try to keep this updated as I make new revisions and learn new things. Feel free to comment on my maps and tuning strategies. Questions and advice are always welcome!
Attached Files
File Type: ptm Built Motor v1.0.ptm (14.4 KB, 1 views)
File Type: ptm Built Motor v1.6.ptm (14.5 KB, 0 views)
File Type: csv 12-5-12 4th Gear Pull (48).csv (21.9 KB, 2 views)

Last edited by TWOptSL0W; 12-05-2012 at 06:48 PM.
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 Old 12-05-2012, 06:05 PM   #2
 
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Shouldn't you be grading papers right now?

EDIT...Don't forget the zip ties and duct tape.
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 Old 12-05-2012, 06:12 PM   #3
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Looking forward to your success on this Mike
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 Old 12-05-2012, 06:25 PM   #4
 
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Don't spend all that hard earned money and buy shit gauges, I know plenty of people run them.

But I suspect my boost gauge isn't as accurate as other, higher end ones and it rattles like a mother fucker. I can't wait to replace it.
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 Old 12-05-2012, 06:47 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by helmetface View Post
Don't spend all that hard earned money and buy shit gauges, I know plenty of people run them.

But I suspect my boost gauge isn't as accurate as other, higher end ones and it rattles like a mother fucker. I can't wait to replace it.
I got them all a while back and theyve been good so far. I will need a new boost gauge anyway because I will max it out and I will need a 3.5 BAR MAP, and as for the egt and Fuel Pressure, I dont need them to be perfect, I just need abouts anyway
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