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 Old 04-30-2008, 12:01 AM   #1
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Default TXS knock light install questions

I did some research, and before i dive into tuning this beast, i figure some sort of knock detection light is a good safety device. What i'm wondering tho, is where to connect the wires for knock and RPM input.

When looking at the ECU pinout diagram provided by rotus8 on mazda247, it looks like there are 3 wires for the knock sensor, 2U, 2V, and 2Y. which one should i use?

And for RPM, I suppose a good source to know RPM is the crank position sensor, but i think it is supposed to go off an ignition coil input instead. Should i use the ignition coil #1 wire, 2BA?

I like how this knock light changes sensativity based on RPM. That is more than what other lights do, from what i have read. subbie guys like this light. i suppose i could get a DH and read ignition retard, and know knock, but i like a light telling me when i am. the fact that it is also a shift light is an added bonus.

Any help that can be given as far as wiring would be greatly appreciated! Expect a review when it is finished!
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 Old 04-30-2008, 12:07 AM   #2
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I thought i saw that you put that light into 1 cylinder mode and pull the negative output from coil one. As far as which wire to pull knock off of, you will have to play with it. you got 1:3 odds of getting it right
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 Old 04-30-2008, 12:15 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
I thought i saw that you put that light into 1 cylinder mode and pull the negative output from coil one.
Where did you see this information? how do i know which one is negative? i assume it will be black, but i have assumed wrong many times...

is it possible that there are multiple knock sensors too? i do not know really... maybe i should consult the factory manual...
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 Old 04-30-2008, 12:24 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by IKILLPEOPLE View Post
Where did you see this information? how do i know which one is negative? i assume it will be black, but i have assumed wrong many times...

is it possible that there are multiple knock sensors too? i do not know really... maybe i should consult the factory manual...
I cant recall where i read it, but most people i know who have installed these, only do it on one cylinder. Black wire is the negative wire on the COP. Not sure about how many KS we have but someone on here does.
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 Old 04-30-2008, 12:28 AM   #5
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Thank you for the info!

Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
Not sure about how many KS we have but someone on here does.
I hope your right!
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 Old 04-30-2008, 11:37 AM   #6
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Well, i did the obvious thing, and called TXS. Apparently they already installed this on a MS3 before, and they told me which wires to connect to:

RPM (orange) connects to ECU pin # 2BA (White) "Ignition#1"
Knock (white) connects to ECU pin# 2U (brown\yellow) "Knock"

I'll letcha all know how it works out...
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 Old 04-30-2008, 09:04 PM   #7
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i installed this thing today... expect a full writeup soon... i can sum it up here tho: it's pretty sweet!
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 Old 05-02-2008, 01:23 PM   #8
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Why didn't you just get a scangauge that monitors knock from the OBDII port? Both the Aeroforce & Dashhawk do that. At first I was gonna get that TXS knocklite too but the thing seems a bit touchy to set up from what I read ... just never got a good feeling from what I read.

Hope it works for ya though!
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 Old 05-02-2008, 02:19 PM   #9
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a. because an aeroforce and dashhawk are expensive, i got this knock light off ebay for 45 bucks. the shift light is another perk.

b. the setup is pretty easy. the install was easy as well. just follow the directions for setup, it isn't that hard.

i'm making videos and soon i'll have my opinions of the gauge up on here... i do like it tho!
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 Old 05-06-2008, 11:28 PM   #10
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wow this thing is picking up a lot of knock... i'm going to try putting 2 gallons of toluene in my tank the next refill, and see if i still knock.
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 Old 05-07-2008, 12:28 AM   #11
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How much knock are you actually picking up? Other than seeing the light flickering, i take it you dont own a dashhawk to see the actual knock info?
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 Old 05-07-2008, 04:09 AM   #12
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There's a sensitivity adjustment with it but I can't help but wonder if you wasted your money on that.
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 Old 05-07-2008, 04:19 AM   #13
 
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Is the txs indicating knock or knock retard?? I know there inversely related but is it just reading off the OEM sensor voltage and fireing off a light at a user picked number ?
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 Old 05-07-2008, 08:10 AM   #14
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the light displays knock itself, not knock retard. it displays knock with either an amber light (moderate knock) or a red light (severe knock). there is a sensitivity adjustment, and i have it set to be pretty sensitive, but the light never comes on during normal daily driving. it only comes on at WOT.

I don't see it to be a waste of money at all. It uses signals from the factory knock sensor. Everytime this thing says i'm knocking, i feel the car studder a little bit. i've seen the red light come on a couple times, indicating severe knock. when the red light comes on, the car really studders. I'm picking up some toluene to see if that helps any. i'm already running 93 octane, however it was from a cheap gas place, so i could have some bad gas.

there is a theory out there that says our factory knock sensor is either too sensitive, or it is picking up noise from somewhere else, like maybe our injectors or something. If i put a bunch of toluene in my car and boost my octane to 100+, i should not be registering knock at all.
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 Old 05-07-2008, 08:16 AM   #15
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 Old 05-07-2008, 10:27 PM   #16
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well i went through the gas that i was using that was giving me knock. i bought that gas at quick check, this combo gas station\convenience store that always has the cheapest gas in the area. today i filled up at BP, with their 93 octane. i drove around for a while, and then i was flooring it on the highway. much to my surprise, i did not get any knock. i did not change any settings on the knock light, just a change in gas. tomorrow i will be going to atco to drag race my car, so i will be putting the toluene in it anyways, to further reduce knock.

i'm thinking that maybe i had some bad gas in there. thats pretty much the only variable that changed... the temp\humidity were about the same, so i ruled those out. also, not only did the knock sensor NOT go off, but i did not notice my car hiccuping.

bad gas? i think so. fuck quick check and their cheap ass gas. BP was only 5 cents more at 3.72 for a gallon anyways.
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 Old 05-07-2008, 10:32 PM   #17
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Before you head to the track,stop by the parts store and pickup a bottle of marvel mystery oil. you want to add 3 oz of this for each gallon of toluene you add to the car. This will keep the fuel from drying out, including saving wear on your o-rings.
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 Old 05-07-2008, 11:34 PM   #18
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what is in this marvel mystery oil? i have done a bunch of research on toluene, and i don't recall anyone adding mystery oil to keep fuel from drying out, or saving wear on o-rings... is this stuff just acetone? i think i remember reading someone putting that in there with toluene... besides, i don't think the fuel is going to have enough time to dry out, as i drive my car a lot, and i'll be going to the track on a 1\4 tank, and i will need a refill before i head home (because gas is cheap where i'm going). after the refill, the amount of toluene in the gas will not be much different from normal, since there is already a lot of toluene in gas anyways.

anyways, what do you think of my bad gas theory haltech? am i missing something else?
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 Old 05-07-2008, 11:47 PM   #19
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Its the not the fuel that dries out, it adds lubricant because the toluene is so dry that it can cause pre-mature wear on your fuels o-rings. You don't have to do it, but adding it does more good, than harm.

Bad gas is quite common. I try to fill up in my local area and learn the schedule of the delivery. I wont get fuel the day of a fuel delivery or the day before. Between running race gas, methanol and 91 through my truck and having to change my fuel filter every 6000 miles, i made it a habit to cut the fuel filter open after i replaced it with a new one. You wouldnt believe that crap that comes out of those pumps and not only settles into your tank, but your filter.

After learning the refuel schedule of my local station, i could go every 9-12000 miles between fuel filter changes.
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 Old 05-08-2008, 01:56 AM   #20
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hmm... i should probably do that fuel filter, i'm at 26k miles lol...

i don't know how you learn local delivery times... i never see tankers filling up the station.

i'm going to do some research on this mystery oil you speak of... thanks for the tip.
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 Old 05-08-2008, 11:01 AM   #21
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umm our cars dont really have a fuel filter bro.
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 Old 05-08-2008, 11:10 AM   #22
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how can they not? so all this junk is going through my fuel system?
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 Old 05-08-2008, 11:18 AM   #23
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Its like a little screen or something. I remember talking about it with somone on this forum, but i cant remember which thread it is.
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 Old 05-08-2008, 01:48 PM   #24
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WTF! maybe one could tap the fuel line somewhere, and install a fuel filter...
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 Old 05-27-2008, 02:21 PM   #25
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i thought i would add this:

i went to the drag strip the other day, and on the way there i noticed i was knocking under boost. the knock light was going off, and i could feel the car pulling timing. i had about a half a tank of gas in my car, and when i got to the strip i put 2 gallons of 103 octane in there. that got rid of all my knocking.
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 Old 08-19-2009, 07:45 AM   #26
 
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hey man thanks for the info on this thing i am considering getting one. When you get back from neil diamond land can you post an update on this thing? Does it still show knock all the time, do you think it was a waste of money after having it for a while, etc...
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