Clutch failure tracking thread

[CWP_MS3]

Originally Posted by someguy Mine did today, ffs...and here I thought I was in good shape. So much for that.

Just drive it easy for the next few weeks. Stay out of boost, and get it hot but don't burn it.

[GODspeed7]

I said fuck these games and I am ordering a clutch and FW. I want my car and all it's power back.

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[CWP_MS3]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 I said fuck these games and I am ordering a clutch and FW. I want my car and all it's power back. sent while failing

That's how I felt. Hence why I called in a favor and had it fixed ASAP.

[Spec]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 I said fuck these games and I am ordering a clutch and FW. I want my car and all it's power back. sent while failing

Which one?

[someguy]

Originally Posted by CWP_MS3 Just drive it easy for the next few weeks. Stay out of boost, and get it hot but don't burn it.

Ya, it's not a problem so long as I don't go WOT in the higher gears. I've since bought a daily driver (Toyota Rav4 v6 AWD Limited lol like an old person) so I have some flexibility now. Will probably DIY an aftermarket clutch sometime this spring/summer, likely the ACT 6 puck to deal with it more permanently...I can't stand to have my car not 100% fully driveable.

[GODspeed7]

I went LUK clutch kit and a fidanza FW

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[adamizme]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 I went LUK clutch kit and a fidanza FW sent while failing

I plan on going with that same combo when the time comes.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[Spec]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 I went LUK clutch kit and a fidanza FW sent while failing

How much was it?

[GODspeed7]

Luk clutch kit is the disc, PP, and TOB and that was $180 shipped and the FW will be $335 shipped. @phate; advised to purchase a pilot bearing as well since we will be in there. Those are $12

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[tbcota25]

2012 speed3 around 42,000 miles... Mods Sri, tip, hpfp, TMIC, catless dp, tp, cbe, s-ots+ tune 93 octane... Started slipping 6 days after I installed the catless dp... It's slipping in 4th and 5th gears between 3500 to 5500 RPM...

[GODspeed7]

Would like to update my status, my clutch and flywheel were fine. My rear main seal was leaking and caused oil to get on my clutch disc. We replaced everything since we had it apart but besides my disc being soaked in oil, everything looked great. My stock flywheel still had the machining marks in the face. So if anyone wants to keep the quietness and dtivability of the stock flywheel but don't want to pay the ridiculous stock price, let me know and I will make a thread and post the proper pics and info.

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[Roddiy]

When my clutch started slipping, mods were: Intake, catless DP, hpfp Internals, E85 tune. Had 50k miles on the dot, clutch started slipping as soon as E85 tune came on. Now I also have a vented valve cover breather.


When replacing it, we found out the cause was actually a leaky rear main seal as well, which was letting oil into the clutch/flywheel.

More detailed symptoms:


Clutch started slipping when going above ~330-340wtq on Vdyno, it would slip all the way from 3k-6k rpms. However, if I loaded up a 93 map and drove around it for a few days (back then ~300wtq or so) it would start slipping less and less until none at all. Before going in for the full replacement I already knew it was probably the rear main, either case it's something you should change whenever you're down there anyways!


So for future readers, if your clutch slips with high tq tunes, but stops slipping after driving for a day or so on a lower tq tune, it's probably your rear main.

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by Roddiy When my clutch started slipping, mods were: Intake, catless DP, hpfp Internals, E85 tune. Had 50k miles on the dot, clutch started slipping as soon as E85 tune came on. Now I also have a vented valve cover breather. When replacing it, we found out the cause was actually a leaky rear main seal as well, which was letting oil into the clutch/flywheel. More detailed symptoms: Clutch started slipping when going above ~330-340wtq on Vdyno, it would slip all the way from 3k-6k rpms. However, if I loaded up a 93 map and drove around it for a few days (back then ~300wtq or so) it would start slipping less and less until none at all. Before going in for the full replacement I already knew it was probably the rear main, either case it's something you should change whenever you're down there anyways! So for future readers, if your clutch slips with high tq tunes, but stops slipping after driving for a day or so on a lower tq tune, it's probably your rear main.

I think I need a vented oil catch can to help me prevent this from happening again.

sent while failing

[Spec]

Originally Posted by Roddiy When my clutch started slipping, mods were: Intake, catless DP, hpfp Internals, E85 tune. Had 50k miles on the dot, clutch started slipping as soon as E85 tune came on. Now I also have a vented valve cover breather. When replacing it, we found out the cause was actually a leaky rear main seal as well, which was letting oil into the clutch/flywheel. More detailed symptoms: Clutch started slipping when going above ~330-340wtq on Vdyno, it would slip all the way from 3k-6k rpms. However, if I loaded up a 93 map and drove around it for a few days (back then ~300wtq or so) it would start slipping less and less until none at all. Before going in for the full replacement I already knew it was probably the rear main, either case it's something you should change whenever you're down there anyways! So for future readers, if your clutch slips with high tq tunes, but stops slipping after driving for a day or so on a lower tq tune, it's probably your rear main.

That's basically what happened to me but, it slipped for about two weeks or until after I got tracking info on the new clutch.... Figures. Rear main was fine.

[5doorsoffury]

Hmm i have been beating the shit outa my car on my 93 tune and i have not slipped at all. I only slipped on e. I wonder if e85 contributes to a leaky RMS in some way. I have since added a second catch can and plate in attempts to alleviate crankcase pressure.

[galens47]

2010 MS3, 40k miles, slipping 5th 4-5500 rpm. Noticed it on 5th WOT run yesterday. Ambient temp 65 f.

Mods: SRI+TIH, HPFP, Stratified Tune.

It slipped a bit earlier but I didn't notice the smell until later in the drive.

Thanks,

G

[GODspeed7]

I would say yours is definitely leaking rear main seal. I have way more mods than you and more miles and my clutch and flywheel were fine. Seems that the factory can't install the rear main seal right.

sent while failing

Check for wetness on the bottom of the bell housing on the drain port.

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[someguy]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 I would say yours is definitely leaking rear main seal. I have way more mods than you and more miles and my clutch and flywheel were fine. Seems that the factory can't install the rear main seal right. sent while failing Check for wetness on the bottom of the bell housing on the drain port. sent while failing

Drain port? Picture or further description where this is?

[Big_Burd]

I just would like to say on my GenWon I have 128k miles on my stock clutch, and my car has been beyond molested.

Sucks to see this though, didn't know the pu had this problem til now.

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by someguy Drain port? Picture or further description where this is?

Drain port may have been a bad term. When we pulled the bell housing off to get to the clutch TOB and that stuff, silvapain pointed out a groove or a Channel between the two halves that is there to help any fluid whether it be oil from a leaking rear main seal or god forbid water, drain out. This channel might have oil on it if the rear main seal is leaking, since under normal conditions it should be dry.

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[modusoperandi]

Just recently I've had some issues with my clutch & the pedal. When I first got the car the pedal itself was fairly stiff & up until 2 weeks ago where it has gotten to where it takes far less effort to depress. When releasing the pedal it will spring quickly, often times jerking the car around. The clutch grabs fine though, I've done 4th gear logs & WOT runs on 5th gear from a slow roll with no slip. Maybe rebleeding the system should do the trick?

[someguy]

Originally Posted by modusoperandi Just recently I've had some issues with my clutch & the pedal. When I first got the car the pedal itself was fairly stiff & up until 2 weeks ago where it has gotten to where it takes far less effort to depress. When releasing the pedal it will spring quickly, often times jerking the car around. The clutch grabs fine though, I've done 4th gear logs & WOT runs on 5th gear from a slow roll with no slip. Maybe rebleeding the system should do the trick?

Yup, bleed the system and check that there are no leaks, especially slave cylinder but also at the master as there's some seals there that are finicky that could have been messed up.

[2011speed]

I don't think this is a common problem. Plenty of pus with no issues

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by 2011speed I don't think this is a common problem. Plenty of pus with no issues

This seems to be a common problem with the even year pu's from the results that I have seen 2010's and 2012's especially.

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[modusoperandi]

Forgot to mention the reservoir is filled a little above the full notch. I'll double check for some leaks & bleed the system to see if that alleviates the issue.

[CWP_MS3]

Originally Posted by 2011speed I don't think this is a common problem. Plenty of pus with no issues

Its not about it being plenty of pus, its about being plenty of high hp/tq pus. All of those guys are tuned, and a lot are E85.

[Spec]

I was tuned on e at the time and soon to be again.

[someguy]

Originally Posted by CWP_MS3 Its not about it being plenty of pus, its about being plenty of high hp/tq pus. All of those guys are tuned, and a lot are E85.

I think he was referring to the post a couple above his about the guys pedal and bleeding it and such...not about the clutch issues themselves. @2011speed;

[CWP_MS3]

Originally Posted by someguy I think he was referring to the post a couple above his about the guys pedal and bleeding it and such...not about the clutch issues themselves. @2011speed;

Are you some kind of mind-reader now?








Failed to read the above...

[modusoperandi]

Haha, I still have yet to bleed the system.

[motherfnmonsta]

Well did a pull last night in 4th gear and sob slipped like a mug on my second pull. ATP gt2871r e85 mix put 377 and around 400 range in tourqe. About to order a act clutch so I can make it through the dragon

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[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta Well did a pull last night in 4th gear and sob slipped like a mug on my second pull. ATP gt2871r e85 mix put 377 and around 400 range in tourqe. About to order a act clutch so I can make it through the dragon Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

I think the point of this thread is to document stock turbo cars or cars we would deem lightly modded

sent while failing

[motherfnmonsta]

Well mine did it during the winter on stock turbo with 93 tune then stop the moment it warmed up

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[alexryan]

Add me to the club:
2012
23,000 miles
GTX2867r
slipping in 4th consistently for weeks @ 400 rpm. Mods in sig, power level in sig.

Just replaced w/ ACT 6 puck today, Plenty of disc left IMO. no hotspots on pressure plate or flywheel, no leaks from RMS. I guess the clutch just couldnt hold the powah. Lots of material falling out once pressure plate was removed (could be normal, IDK)

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by alexryan Add me to the club: 2012 23,000 miles GTX2867r slipping in 4th consistently for weeks @ 400 rpm. Mods in sig, power level in sig. Just replaced w/ ACT 6 puck today, Plenty of disc left IMO. no hotspots on pressure plate or flywheel, no leaks from RMS. I guess the clutch just couldnt hold the powah. Lots of material falling out once pressure plate was removed (could be normal, IDK)

Ok, again, I don't think you need to post in here since you are not stock turbo. Anyone aftermarket turbo should not expect their clutch to hold up.

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[alexryan]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 Ok, again, I don't think you need to post in here since you are not stock turbo. Anyone aftermarket turbo should not expect their clutch to hold up. sent while failing

I know many others who have run an upgraded turbo and their clutch held up just fine. 3 people local to me have run a GT3076, GTX3071 and a pte 5858 and their clutches are just fine. So its not expected that the clutch will give out. I Also had 350 ftlbs (similar to a ko4 torque level) not some crazy amount of torque.

[12blkms3]

2012 with 25k
Started slipping at the drag strip in 3rd and 4th. The car has seen tons of ffs and 3 track days.

Fully bolted e85 tune

I've been taking it easy for the past 3 days

[Antisnafu]

2012 w/ 65k miles. Fully bolted besides K04. Tuned 280+ HP, 340+ TQ.

I was cruising down the highway in 6th going about 70 and went to pass some people before an exit, powershifted to 5th so prob 4-4.5k rpms, mashed it and went nowhere.

It was about 50 degrees outside, dry, and I was about 45 miles into my commute.

[MA_MS3]

My clutch is fine still @ 28K, but I am getting some seapage/ drips of oil right where the Tranny and engine meet. So looks like I got a leaky rear main seal. Not going to worry about it until the clutch lets go tho.

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by MA_MS3 My clutch is fine still @ 28K, but I am getting some seapage/ drips of oil right where the Tranny and engine meet. So looks like I got a leaky rear main seal. Not going to worry about it until the clutch lets go tho.

You might want to get that shit taken care of while it's still under warranty and before it ruins the stock clutch. Why would you wait?

sent while failing