Clutch failure tracking thread

[MA_MS3]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 You might want to get that shit taken care of while it's still under warranty and before it ruins the stock clutch. Why would you wait? sent while failing

I bought it used so it's a certified pre-own with 4 years or 100,000 mile warranty. I'm waiting for several reasons. One, I'm getting close to the same mileage as all these failures anyway. Two, it's not leaking that bad. There is a couple small drips but no spots on the shield yet. Three, I rather have it taken apart once and have that fixed and a new clutch at the same time. They are going to try and sell me a clutch anyway if I brought it in right now, that's not warrantied and I don't have money for a clutch right now.

[Antisnafu]

I have a quick question about our flywheels. Has anyone ever had their dual mass fly wheel slip? When more than stock TQ is exerted it's supposed to slip to prevent damage from occurring to the transmission. I don't know if this has ever happened to me or any of you. I was just wondering if this is what we could be experiencing or if it's a completely different feel and sound? To me this might explain people not smelling their clutch burning. or I could be wrong.

[someguy]

You wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the two...I guess the question is, does the DMF actually have that "feature" or not?

[Antisnafu]

Idk, I assumed that was the main purpose of a DMF over solid. And a lot if guys are saying that they aren't getting burnt clutch smell and that they still have 40-50% life left when the dealer tears them apart. So I just got thinking that this DMF was letting loose.

I also read that once this started happening that the DMF would continue to do this until the springs are completely shot. I'd like to see someone just replace the flywheel with a solid and keep the OEM clutch just to see if that resolves the problem.

[kidlifecrisis]

Sigh. I just wish my fucking clutch would hold. I don't have the time to take the goddamn transmission apart and definitely don't have the money to have someone else do it. This is so aggravating. I'm at 24k miles, and the car has spent one third of its life slipping in the highway gears

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by kidlifecrisis Sigh. I just wish my fucking clutch would hold. I don't have the time to take the goddamn transmission apart and definitely don't have the money to have someone else do it. This is so aggravating. I'm at 24k miles, and the car has spent one third of its life slipping in the highway gears

Warranty? It's probably a rear main seal.

when in doubt, FAP it out

[kidlifecrisis]

The problem is I would have to stock out. At stock power it wouldn't slip, so how to convince mazda to do a butt load of work to fix an issue they just need to take my word on?

[GODspeed7]

If it's the rear main seal then your mods are not the cause and will not effect warranty. Check the weep hole for signs of oil.

when in doubt, FAP it out

[someguy]

Mine is holding again it friggin comes and go.

Checked the weeping hole, not a drop, bone dry...so maybe not RMS.

Stupid car sometimes.

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by someguy Mine is holding again it friggin comes and go. Checked the weeping hole, not a drop, bone dry...so maybe not RMS. Stupid car sometimes.

What about bleeding the line maybe air?

[someguy]

Originally Posted by blackms3_71 What about bleeding the line maybe air?

Might be worth a shot...they did do a clutch pedal in the fall before it started.

[cayerful]

My 2007 Speed3, no mods, started slipping in 2nd, 3rd and 4th @ 75,000: replaced clutch @ 80,000 with and Act ZX4. Now @ 115,000 it started slipping again in all gears. Been in touch with a tech from Act. Believe the clutch starts slipping when it overheats. If you drive like your an old lady for a few days it may start behaving again, as long as it didn't burn up completely. Mine seems fine now but, I don't trust it will remain that way.

By the way, I've never had to replace a clutch before and I've been on the road since 1968 with some pretty high hp.

[makjur]

was able to recreate a 2nd gear bad feeling and it looks like slip in the log, or no ?

[Spec]

Originally Posted by cayerful My 2007 Speed3, no mods, started slipping in 2nd, 3rd and 4th @ 75,000: replaced clutch @ 80,000 with and Act ZX4. Now @ 115,000 it started slipping again in all gears. Been in touch with a tech from Act. Believe the clutch starts slipping when it overheats. If you drive like your an old lady for a few days it may start behaving again, as long as it didn't burn up completely. Mine seems fine now but, I don't trust it will remain that way. By the way, I've never had to replace a clutch before and I've been on the road since 1968 with some pretty high hp.

I've got less than 5k on my act 6 puck w/prolite FW and after a bunch of passes at the track, it sounded like..... How can I put this.. Like someone dragging a car door behind a pick up. After about 2 days it quieted down and started acting right except for now it shutters like a bitch when I take off. @Voltwings; is that fair to say?

Act said the ceramic doesn't glaze so, I'm thinking something broke or cracked and got in there.


Disclaimer : I'm not nice to my stuff.

[Voltwings]

It umm.... did not sound good haha.

[Bap]

So my last autocross I boiled my break fluid and the break pedal got really mushy and so did the clutch pedal. I just changed my break fluid to really high temp guild and the breaks are great and I really noticed that the clutch is now engaging a lot sooner than it did before. I thought that I was going to be another name on the list, but it seams to have a tone of life left now. I wonder if it is not the break and clutch fluid going bad and causing some of the issues?

[Jtaylor]

120K miles on mine with the mods in my sig. Still holding strong

**knocksonwood**

[someguy]

my clutch did it again today, temps were the lowest since the spring...I pretty well said fuck it and kept in the boost for a few pulls even with the slip, low and behold, it stops friggin slipping. It's temperature related for sure! All summer not even a smidge of issue, a bit of cold weather and it's at it again.

[Spec]

Originally Posted by someguy my clutch did it again today, temps were the lowest since the spring...I pretty well said fuck it and kept in the boost for a few pulls even with the slip, low and behold, it stops friggin slipping. It's temperature related for sure! All summer not even a smidge of issue, a bit of cold weather and it's at it again.

It would be in your best interest to wait until there is enough heat built up before boosting. Especially running the k04 and building boost in .2 seconds. You'll build up hot spots on your pp/fw and you're going to have a bad time because it won't care what temp it is after that!

[someguy]

Originally Posted by Spec It would be in your best interest to wait until there is enough heat built up before boosting. Especially running the k04 and building boost in .2 seconds. You'll build up hot spots on your pp/fw and you're going to have a bad time because it won't care what temp it is after that!

Engine was at temp before I got into boost...I'd be shocked if pp/fw/clutch weren't up to temp by this time.

[someguy]

Well, another trip up to mazda...they figure it's pretty well clutch is just not up to the job anymore.

Sooooo....ordered a south bend clutch from edgeautosport.com

I guess we'll see what kind of shape my OEM clutch is when it comes out.

[mr.speedy3]

Year - 2007 (bought it at 52k)
Miles - 62k (at the time)
Mods - full bolt ons + meth and e85
Tune - self tune
Description - started slipping, the pad was shot. Not sure of previous owner driving habits, but with 340hp/380tq, I'm sure I put it on its last leg. Upgraded to an ACT streetlite, then built the engine and went with a 6 puck. No issues with 500hp on the 6 puck . FFS is fucking fantastic from 3rd to 4th with 28psi lmao

[6kipps]

Add another failure to the list. I'm on deployment, and my wife (who drives like granny) had the clutch disintegrate on Monday. Here's the data:

Year - 2013
Miles - 30,000
Mods - Intake
Tune - Self-tune, OEM tune at time of failure, AP uninstalled.
Description - No initial indications of failure, like slippage. Car was slowing down for a stop light and wouldn't get out of 4th gear. Burned clutch smell and wisps of smoke.

At the dealership now for repairs. I don't flog it when I drive (DD). With the self-tune, I was able to achieve 251HP/280TQ per VD. I personally don't think it should have gone this early, but apparently it occasionally happens. Even the tech at the dealership has seen this happen before. Merry Christmas!

[6kipps]

So, turns out the flywheel is toast as well. Some warpage that would require buildup and machining with no real guarantee on longevity. Perhaps my version of driving conservatively - isn't.

FullSizeRender.jpg

I'm going to bite the bullet and just replace it all in one shot. OEM was ridiculously overpriced. ACT ZX5 kit on the way. The customer service at ACT was awesome - helpful and quick to respond.

[JgamB]

Year: 2013
Miles: 26K
Mods: BNR S3 and supporting
Tune: 3gal E85
Description: One bad slip through the entirety of 4th gear in freezing temps. Has not recurred in 3K miles since the incident.

I've never run slicks, but the car has seen near 100 drag strip passes. I FFS fairly often and drive aggressively. I'm looking at clutch options just in case, and not liking what I'm seeing.

[someguy]

Originally Posted by JgamB Year: 2013 Miles: 26K Mods: BNR S3 and supporting Tune: 3gal E85 Description: One bad slip through the entirety of 4th gear in freezing temps. Has not recurred in 3K miles since the incident. I've never run slicks, but the car has seen near 100 drag strip passes. I FFS fairly often and drive aggressively. I'm looking at clutch options just in case, and not liking what I'm seeing.

That's the beginning of the end...will do it again next time it's cold. Weather will warm up and lure you into a false sense of it being ok but it will come again and again a little more often and a little less cold each time until it's finished.

[JgamB]

Originally Posted by someguy That's the beginning of the end...will do it again next time it's cold. Weather will warm up and lure you into a false sense of it being ok but it will come again and again a little more often and a little less cold each time until it's finished.

Agreed - although it has dipped to similar temperatures here now and not slipped. I'm trying to find a clutch for ~450hp/tq without massive pedal effort due to my bad knees. I'm prepared to replace it at any time, but I just don't know with what. More than likely I'll default to the ACT / streetlite combo if I don't hear more good news about the South Bend.

[Nel Mazdaspeed]

@JgamB; I have the South Bend Stg3, imo this will not help your knees what so ever..
Very heavy pedal, "25% stiffer than stock" my arse! Feels like I'm pushing the clutch pedal on my Freightliner at work.
That being said, keep this in mind, stg3 is good for 430hp @crank.. expensive, buuut, engages very strong, pretty smooth, not much chatter until a/c is on and at that point just raise your rpms to like 850 and you'll be fine.

On a side note, my son has the Act xtreme duty I believe it's called (good for over 500@crank) with Street light on his Srt4, and the pedal feels like the stock speed pedal! #butterz

[JgamB]

Originally Posted by Nel Mazdaspeed I have the South Bend Stg3, imo this will not help your knees what so ever.. Very heavy pedal, "25% stiffer than stock" my arse! Feels like I'm pushing the clutch pedal on my Freightliner at work.

This is what I've heard - and the Kentucky clutch I just helped install a couple weeks ago was also very heavy, perhaps 3 times more effort than stock. It's pending a slave cylinder replacement, but I don't think that is going to help.

[Nel Mazdaspeed]

Originally Posted by JgamB This is what I've heard - and the Kentucky clutch I just helped install a couple weeks ago was also very heavy, perhaps 3 times more effort than stock. It's pending a slave cylinder replacement, but I don't think that is going to help.

I think I too need a slave replacement, because im having a hydraulic issue. If I get stuck in heavy traffic, it becomes very challenging to switch in and out of gears unless I have the clutch pedal pushed all the way in touching the firewall!
Even with that though the pedal still pushes back out to its normal position which has me confused as to blaming the slave. I have no visible leaks either. I was thinking that maybe the clutch fluid is reaching its boiling point causing this issue.
The oil in my opinion doesn't look bad though. But I think im going to have the system flushed anyway to see before I start switching parts.

[someguy]

^^ That fluid looks rather dark/browner than I'd expect.

[Nel Mazdaspeed]

Originally Posted by someguy ^^ That fluid looks rather dark/browner than I'd expect.

Yeah I'm seriously thinking its my slave giving problems at this point.. I noticed when its giving me issues to pop in gear I pump the pedal a few and it goes right in!.. Either way I have two new bottles of valv dot3/4 synth brakefluid and I'm a bleed the whole system...

[MD1032]

Originally Posted by Nel Mazdaspeed I think I too need a slave replacement, because im having a hydraulic issue. If I get stuck in heavy traffic, it becomes very challenging to switch in and out of gears unless I have the clutch pedal pushed all the way in touching the firewall! Even with that though the pedal still pushes back out to its normal position which has me confused as to blaming the slave. I have no visible leaks either. I was thinking that maybe the clutch fluid is reaching its boiling point causing this issue. The oil in my opinion doesn't look bad though. But I think im going to have the system flushed anyway to see before I start switching parts.

Could be an air bubble in the clutch master or slave. Could try bleeding with a vacuum or pressure bleeder to see if it resolves the issue. What are those two red dots floating in your fluid? Agree w/above, your fluid shouldn't be cloudy. I'd replace it. You didn't accidentally mix two different kinds of brake fluid, did you? This vehicle comes with DOT3.

[Nel Mazdaspeed]

Originally Posted by MD1032 Could be an air bubble in the clutch master or slave. Could try bleeding with a vacuum or pressure bleeder to see if it resolves the issue. What are those two red dots floating in your fluid? Agree w/above, your fluid shouldn't be cloudy. I'd replace it. You didn't accidentally mix two different kinds of brake fluid, did you? This vehicle comes with DOT3.

Those aren't dots theyre the holes that feed the fluid into the two baffles..
Actually the fluid isnt cloudy just golden in color.. like honey

I havent had to add any fluid in it prior to the issue, but I did add valvoline synth dot3/4 blend (all I could find localy with the highest boiling point wet)

The problem only happens once ive been driving for a while or if im in heavy stop and go traffic..

[spokelse]

just had my clutch go out at 41k, I use the car for daily driving and track, I'm a quite experienced track driver/instructor and I'm very smooth on the clutch, I've owned manual transmission cars all my life and I've never had such short clutch life. I worked with my local mechanic on this, there was no other obvious issue with the clutch assembly, I inspected it personally with my mechanic friend. Any thoughts?

[someguy]

Originally Posted by spokelse just had my clutch go out at 41k, I use the car for daily driving and track, I'm a quite experienced track driver/instructor and I'm very smooth on the clutch, I've owned manual transmission cars all my life and I've never had such short clutch life. I worked with my local mechanic on this, there was no other obvious issue with the clutch assembly, I inspected it personally with my mechanic friend. Any thoughts?

Pictures of the old clutch/flywheel/pressure plate?

[spokelse]

will post soon, getting the parts now

[Danny]

Hi guys,
Almost 60k km, stock turbo, clutch slipped massively in 1st gear and I had all day the fried clutch smell.

Thinking about Act zx4 now...

[CWP_MS3]

Originally Posted by CWP_MS3 My new clutch seems to be really gay when its really cold out, and it hasn't been started. For the first 5 minutes, I feel like I hardly have a clutch and that I have to let it out slow without revving it so it grabs. Once the clutch heats up from some driving, its fine. I've considered talking to my friend about this and seeing if he thought it would be best to parts warranty the new clutch. If that's his solution, then an ACT full face is going in this time.

I called it ^^^^.... And she dun it again. Fuck this clutch. Ordering a ACT very soon.

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by CWP_MS3 I called it ^^^^.... And she dun it again. Fuck this clutch. Ordering a ACT very soon.

What was the clutch that gave you the issue?